audio_kid

I need a pair of K-77 diaphrams... where is the best/cheapest place to obtain same? Your help is appreciated! Thanks... -Dave

Gil, I'm KE2GE. As for the thermostat, I'm referring to one operating on 120 v... such as an electric space heater, electric blanket, aquarium heater, etc. I had a similar problem. Every evening at 9PM I'd start hearing crackling through my computer speakers... it was my electric blanket (on a timer)! The portable radio will lead him to the source. 73, -Dave KE2GE

Hi, I've had experiance in this problem while working as a tech (in another life LOL) for a Klipsch dealer. Yes, it's due to electrical arcing... you should check things like electric blankets, electric space heaters, aquarium heaters, dehumidifiers, etc. Anything with a mechanical thermostat/switch that turns on & off frequently. The fix would be to burnish (clean) the contacts (if possible), or installing a ceramic disc capacitor across the offending switch (a value of 0.005-0.01 uF at 600 volts). Try using a portable AM radio (off station) and listen for the noise... then use it to find the offending appliance. Another source might be a local stepdown transformer (leaking/srcing insulator)... it would be on an electrical pole in your back yard. Again, the portable radio will help find it. Then call your electric company. (As a ham radio operator, I've seen this before too). (Grounding your system might cause other problems... there is usually allot of electrical noise on your electrical "ground". If you have this in a HT system, grounding the system is likely to set up a ground loop between the cable TV ground and the electrical ground.) I hope this helps! -Dave

This is pretty straightforward: click on the file you want to print (ie: LaScala) then select "FILE" on upper task bar select "Page Setup" select "Printer" select "Properties" select "Advanced" Under 'Graphic'... find 'Scaling', and set to 40% then click on all the OK's Then under "FILE", select "Print Preview"... you sould now see that the page is the correct size... click "PRINT" and you're in business! -Dave

ChrisK... you have mail!

I work as an engineer for a pro audio manufacturer, and I specify soldering equipment. We have about 50 Hakko 936 soldering stations, available for under $100. The advantage is that replacement parts are readily available and EASY to install. On the other hand, Weller (owned by Cooper Group) tends to be of lower quality and part repalcement tends to be difficult. Metcal is good for SMT... it heats using RF energy rather than a resistive element. It's costly, and the tip type determines the temperature (non-adjustable). If you're working on tube and transistor (thru-hole) soldering, the variable temperature feature of the Hakko is an advantage. We use Hakko 8 hours per day, 5 days per week, with great success. For a deal, check out ebay for a used 926 or 936 station... it's all you'll need. -Dave

I also want to wish everyone a special Happy Holidays... enjoy your Klipsch speakers; and thanks, Win! -DrDave

The 6200F is the only thing that DOESN'T glow in my collection. I got it from a guy about 10 years ago as payment for a tube amp restoration. I just don't see them on Ebay, so I can't tell you it's value. The old Orion Blue Book value was very low as I recall, but that goes back many years too. I discovered the *magic* of tube gear with Klipsch over 30 years ago, and have enjoyed many amplifiers on my horns, including McIntosh and Marantz tubes... just about every model each made, as well as many other brands of tube equipment. Generally speaking, you won't go wrong with tube equipment with Klipch. -Dave

Here are the specs on the receiver. This is a quality piece... don't pass it up!

This is the 6200F. I already have one in my collection. It's a large, high quality receiver... check this out!

The Sony 6200F was the top of the line receiver in about 1973. I did servicing of Sony products while in college, and always liked the 6200F (although I only got to work on one!). It was state of the art at the time, and was Sony's answer to the Marantz 19 and Mac 1900. The FM (only) tuner is very good also. I acquired one about 10 years ago.... this is a very rare receiver. -Dave

Hi fellow Klipsch enthusiasts! Welcome to the Forum, Phil.... I'm a relative newcomer myself. Regarding Cornwalls... I always liked them, but bought Khorns when I was in college. I worked for a Klipsch dealer when the Cornwall II was introduced, so I was in a good position to audition the old vs new Cornwall (I wanted to purchase a pair at the 50% discount accomodation rate for employees of Klipsch dealers). I settled for the Cornwall II. I found they were tamer in the mid (a little more laid back). The pair I purchased had some severe quality problems (the cabinet seams split after a year), and Klipsch replaced them. Jim Hunter ran a response curve on the drivers and crossover, and believe me, they are very flat. This is just my opinion, but don't discount the quality of the later Cornwalls. Having listened to and set up many Klipsch systems over the 20+ years I worked for Klipsch dealers, I have to say that I found the plastic mid horn to sound less colored than the metal horns (unless the metal horns were damped with a deadening material). I now have 50 year old Klipschorns, which I like much better than my original 1971 pair... the wood/fiberglass horn doesn't impart the sonic signature of the metal horns. Again, this is my opinion, so please don't flame me guys. (BTW, I'm more of a 2 channel guy, and have my Fortes in HT, but the Klipschorns, Cornwalls, and Heresys are in 2 channel systems). -Dave

Regarding my tube gear collection, I rarely use it... it's pristine, and I keep it in my radio and audio 'museum'. Having been involved in the home audio industry in the late 60's until the 90's, I was able to obtain high quality tube equipment when people traded or sold it to buy the "much higher quality" solid state stuff. Being a Klipschorn owner at the time, I'd try solid state gear, but found most tube gear to be orders of magnitude better sounding. The early Japanese stuff was the worst.... I measured very high distortion at levels below a watt (crossover distortion) where the Klipsch "lived". We sold Klipschorns with Dyna Mk III's, Marantz 250/33 combos, or Marantz 1200's. I worked for a McIntosh dealer several years later, and never saw them do such a practice as running an amp beyond it's rating during a clinic, they didn't have to (although, I did see some equipment that beat McIntosh for distortion). They did measure one of my 275's, and pushed it to it's rated distortion, and then measured its power... 90 watts per channel! BTW, they would also measure the 60 Hz power line distortion, which was usually quite high! Standard Radio made their own audio gear, and later on made the off-shore Marantz gear... very nice quality. They now make ham radio equipment. -Dave

I have a nice collection of Marantz tube gear.... I did MANY restorations to Marantz 8b's in the 1970's to 1990's in my other life. They can be made to sound wonderful, and are a good match for Klipsch speakers. I agree that the model 2's are very special. I own (2) model 1's, (2) model 2's, (2) model 5's, (2) model 7c's, (1) model 7r, (3) model 8b's (one new in box), (2) model 9's, (2) model 9r's, (2) model 10b's, and (2) model 12's (turntables)... all vintage. This collection pales to my McIntosh tube collection. I understand that many employees of Klipsch and Associates (the REAL Klipsch) preferred 8b's on their Heresy's. -Dave

Duct tape works for everything from grommets to solder. Also consider putting it over the wood on the chassis... duct tape gray is very attractive

Hello all, As a long time Klipsch admirer, I have to chime in on this topic. I worked for Klipsch dealers in Rochester NY for 20+ years, and introduced many people to the speakers from the early 1970's into the 1990's. Those were the days when Paul Klipsch and BOB MOERS (a name that was conspicuously left out of the PWK biography) ran the company. With regard to Klipsch not being considered 'high end audio', I remember when tubes were laughed at and high power solid state was king (aaahh... when I built up my collection of tube McIntosh and Marantz equipment). Now, in the 21st century, people are paying high prices for SET amps and high effeciency speakers. I agree that Klipsch should consider selling Heritage on-line or through specialty dealers. As an engineer at a Pro Audio company, there are manufacturing techniques (LEAN) that can accomodate small run sizes effeciently. Don't let the Jubilee die! -Dave

Hello, I also have a Shorthorn that has all JBL (JBL 075, D130) components in it. Inside it's stamped 'Klipsch Shorthorn'. I am going to restore it with the proper components... I have an EV 15WK and a K-77 so far. What crossover designation did it use? Does anybody have a schematic and pictures of a Shorthorn crossover (if it's a 500-5000, I already have 2 of them on my 1953/54 khorns)? The previous owner actually cut the top, so the speaker would fit snugly in the corner, with no way of loading into the room ;-( My restoration will include making a new top for it. Thank you for any info you can provide. -Dave

I worked for Klipsch dealers for 25 years... and became the local 'expert'... I've heard many Khorns over the years, with many crossovers, and corresponded with PWK until his death. As for 'bang for the buck', the old type A crossovers can't be beat. If you're technical, you can convert a type AA, B, C, etc into a type A by rewiring and capacitor replacement. And yes, as per '3dzapper', the ALK is another alternative, if cost isn't a factor. They are higher order crossovers. If you check Ebay for used Type A's, just do a search for "Klipsch crossover"... that will get you there. I do suggest that you check your speakers and determine which drivers you have, as I mentioned in my previous post. Do your Khorns have wood/fiber or cast metal mid (squawker) horns? In short, your effort will be worth it in the long run. Properly setup corner horns can provide a great musical experiance... just check out all the postings here from Klipsch enthusiasts.

You have K-33e woofers, and likely University SAHF mids, and either University T-4401 or Klipsch (EV T-35) K-77 tweeter. IMHO, the K-77 is the better of the two. You can build a first order (6 dB/octave) type A crossover or perhaps find one on ebay or here to replace the generic ones you have. PWK liked that one better than higher order; and I have to agree. The type A also has an autoformer to allow midrange/tweeter level adjustment. If you'd like help, feel free to contact me privately. -Dave

Hi CWag, and welcome to the forum! I just modified a type A crossover for use with my 1953/1954 Khorn pair with University SAHF drivers in the mid. I had the 500/5000 crossover, which had far too much midrange level. First, check your crossover type, and get back to me, but I assume you have the older style crossover. Also check the mid driver and tweeter type, and I'll do my best to help. BTW, I would use a 16 ohm L-pad as a LAST resort. -DrDave

Tom, Wonderful purchase. I've lived with these monsters for 32 years... first a pair of 1971 Khorns, and now a 1953/1954 "pair", and am still amazed by their dynamics and sound reproduction. My current models have a modified type A first order crossover with Stephens woofers, University SAHF squawkers, and K-77 tweeters. Your wife will love them as much as you will! -DrDave BTW, I paid $100 for mine!

I also agree with the other responses. Having worked for 2 large Klipsch dealers in a technical capacity for over 20 years, and having owned Klipschorns since 1971, I would suggest that you check the crossover capacitors in your 1975 models. Around that time they changed to cheap yellow mylar caps (from oil-filled). Several customers who bought Khorns (and other Klipsch models) during that time period requested oil-filled caps. I upgraded many Klipsch speakers to oil-filled, and there was a noticable improvement in the sound. You might consider looking into oil-filled caps (or other high quality types). -Dave

I have a letter from PWK where he states that Major Edwin Armstrong (Inventor of radio regeneration, superhetrodyne, and FM) used a Klipschorn to demonstrate the high fidelity capabilities of FM in early demonstrations in the late 1940's.

I serviced many HK receivers in the 1970's, and always felt the HK's sounded good. I've worked on many HK-330's, and have one in my electronics lab. The reason the HK-330 audio doesn't abruptly stop upon turning it off is that it doesn't have a protection relay like most solid-state amps do (likely because it was a budget receiver, and has fuse protection for the speakers). It was one receiver that worked well when mated with a Heresy (unlike the early Yamaha's, for example). One other thing, the HK's had very sensitive and selective FM tuner sections (compared to others in their class). As for comparison to a good tube amp, I don't see it as being a contest!

I agree that the amplifier is very important with Khorns. I spent 25 years working as a technician for high end audio dealers (who sold Klipsch). The heritage speakers are very particular about what amplifiers are interfaced with them. The early Yamaha receivers (and amps), as well as other early quality solid-state gear sounded terrible on Klipsch... very shrill and grainy, due to their high crossover distortion at very low power levels. The competition at the time, such as AR-3a's, were so ineffecient that the distortion wasn't heard, and they sounded OK. I would run into people all the time who had nothing good to say about Klipsch... until they heard them on proper amplifiers. In 1972 I got to spend 2 days with PWK, and he told me his favorite amp was the Brook (using 2A3's P-P). I later got to hear one (only 1, unfortunatly), and it was awesome. I've lived with Khorns for over 30 years... and they still amaze me!