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wood finishing ?


bryan750

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I have veneered my heresys in black walnut and now I am ready to finish them,I know blo is standard klipsch finish but I would rather have a long lasting finish without the upkeep I was thinking about a stain + wipe on poly or tung oil,I am looking for something to really bring out the walnut any suggestions on colors of stain that I should try? Also what kind of glue can I use to reattach the velcro back on the front of the speaker,I had to remove them to paint the front.

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Bryan, What I did with my Heresys and Khorns when I veneered them with figured black walnut was to use BLO as a stain, steelwool smooth after drying and semi gloss poly hand rubbed finish coats steelwooled between the three coats. Produced a nice rich brown black walnut with excellent grain presentation and all the highlights shimmering in different lights. I'm prejudiced but I think they are gorgeous!!3.gif

How I selected this option was to apply 6x6squares of veneer to a piece of plywood and apply different stains and oils as tests. My wife and I both selected the BLO/Poly option.

Rick

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DONT use a poly with stain or any other color in it. You will kill the grain of your beautiful walnut. BLO per original spec or Poly would get my vote. If you select Poly for it's wear characteristics, I'd maybe shy away from high gloss. If you get a semi-gloss finish poly, make sure to keep it stirred as you're using it. You've got to keep the fine grains (that create the duller finish) in suspension. Don't overstir any product or you'll introduce air bubbles which may not find their way out of your final finish.

My vote- BLO, you can always add more! If you put on poly and don't like it, you've got to sand the stuff off! Hope this helps!

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You are not supposed to use steel wool around speakers. Use those scouring pads (similar to a spounge in size and shape) that they sell in the paint section of Home Depot, sort of like the rougher green kitchen scouring ones.

Satin finish poly is still pretty shiny. You don't want to go glossier than that.

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Sikkens CETOL Products, or use a oil-base penetrating stain,3 coats poly sanding sealer with 2 coats satin polyurathane.Definetly find a sample peice of wood to have a stain match. Go to a paint store ,Sherwin Williams or Ben Moore,and ask the guy at the counter.

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If your intent is to use a polyurethane finish, then my suggestion is to use one that is a satin finish...not a gloss or semi-gloss version. The only major problems with using a satin polyurethane is that you MUST keep it well-stirred-up while applying the finish.

This is necessary because finite silica particles are added to standard gloss polyurethane finishes to refract light so that those finishes take on a semi-gloss or satin finish appearance. That is the ONLY difference between a gloss polyurethane and a semi-gloss or satin polyurethane finish...the addition of those finite silica particles. The satin versions just have MORE OF those particles added than the semi-gloss versions have. Therefore it is IMPERATIVE that those silica particles be thoroughly spread evenly throughout the finish by a good mixing/stirring. Not only that, but those particles tend to settle fairly rapidly towards the bottom, so it is necessary to REGULARLY stir the container of finish while in the process of applying it. I normally stir a satin poly finish about every three times my brush gets dipped into the container.

Why is this so important? Well, you won't so easily see why until it dries. Remember...if the silica isn't thoroughly suspended in the solution, the finish is still basically a gloss finish...so by not keeping the finish stirred-up regularly...you will end up with a blotchy appearance once it dries...an appearance that varies from satin to glossy throughout. SO STIR IT UP REGULARLY.

The advantage of using a satin poly over a gloss or semi-gloss is in its maintenance. If the finish ever becomes scuffed or lightly scratched, all it takes is a light rubbing with steel wool or whatever, and a little light spray of the same finish to hide the "boo-boo"...you don't even have to spray the entire item, just a touch-up spray is all that is necessary. This is MUCH more easily accomplished with a satin finish than with the other two types. Besides, scuffs and such on a satin finish just don't tend to show up as easily as on gloss or semi-gloss finishes to begin with!

One other thing...I am NOT a fan of high gloss polyurethanes on fine wood. It doesn't matter how deep the finish is, it is just one of those aesthetic things for me. High gloss urethane just does NOT look natural to me. I much prefer the appearance of a good BLO finish on, say, black walnut. BUT if one wants to approximate that BLO on black walnut finish appearance, while using a polyurethane, then a properly-applied satin poly will most closely approximate it.

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Danish Oil is also nice. I believe that it's a tung oil-related thing; more of a mixture of different oils, etc.

It is a breeze to put on, looks great, lasts forever, and doesn't stink even when fresh!

I use it on picture frames. I wouldn't hesitate to use it on speaker cabinets.

DM2.gif

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The main ingredient in Danish Oil is linseed oil.

The heating of linseed oil, to make it BLO, helps in the curing process. BLO also has some other ingredients added, which helps speed the drying process.

But it makes it smell a bit more.

Marvel

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good stuff HDBR! We'll miss you around here, but Godspeed on your journey! Totally agreed on satin finishes in Poly. I think Deft makes a good one reasonably priced. Use several coats, sand between, STIR CONSTANTLY and gently, and DON"T SHAKE!

Another hint with poly is to steel wool (or ScotchBrite- that's the green plastic 'scuffer' pads) between coats to remove any dust globs that settled on that coat. Then use a tack cloth (cheese cloth impregnated with linseed oil, I believe- find it at paint stores) to pick up all the dust. Also work in a 'clean room' with no vacuuming during the drying process. I always mist the air and floor in my shop prior to painting to settle all the dust and keep from kicking any more up. Let each coat fully dry before preceeding, especially important during these humid seasons.

Have fun and take your time. Enjoy the results! Post pix when done please!

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