ricktate Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 Can anyone who has or knows the deminsions of the spacer board on the model B K-Horns please post it here.I have some 72 model Cs that need a lot of loving care. Im going to make them into model Bs for them living through all the bad people before who owned and treated them bad,,lol...Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndyKlipschFan Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 Ok, I will attempt to give it a try. The top section is 5/8" back fron the front of the bottom cabinet. The sides and back fit the rear seals (Corner) too. The "spacer wood" is 1" tall.. and is 1 5/8" back from all three sides when measured from a K horn bottom cabinet. Left, center, and right. I think this is what you were asking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 You'll need to cut another plate too. The horizontal piece directly below the riser or collar is part of the top, not part of the bass bin. You can pull the top section off, turn it upside down and trace around it to make a pattern. You can buy the iron-on edge banding to match the wood you've got, finish it however you need to. Others here have done this, maybe one of them will chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 Here is a picture with measurements Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 Khorn Top Section Model B All exposed edges should be edge banded before assembly. I like to cut the pieces as I go. This will allow for any adjustments. Top section assembled out of 3/4 plywood. A few pictures of model b and c are included to assist in assembly. None of the drawings included are to scale. Sub-assembly 1 -Assemble parts 7a (2 required) and 7b (2 required) to make part 7 and this completes the first sub-assembly. You may want to add glue block in each corner for added stability. Sub-assembly 2 -On part 3(1 required),from the bottom drill and countersink 4 holes to except sub assembly 3,approx. 1 3/8 inches in from the outside edge.and 7 and 12 inches back from the front edge. Place a 1/4 inch bolt in each hole from the bottom side( use a small amount of epoxy around the shank just under the head of the bolt to hold it in place). On part 4(1 required) place part 7 as far back as it will go without any overhang and equal distants from the outside edges(see fig 5). Mark the inside with witness marks. Predrill and countersink 10 holes through part 7 top to bottom(through the ply). place glue on bottom side of part 7 and attach to part4 with screws(making sure witness marks are aligned).Place part 3 on top of part7 and align with the back of part 7 and the sides of part 4(see fig.5). Place witness marks on the underside of part3 by tracing around the where part 7 and part3 come together. Drill 10 holes thru the bottom side of part3 about 3/8 inch to the inside of the witness marks and along the backside. Countersink all these holes from the topside of part3. Apply glue to the bottom side of part3 along the inside of witness marks. Realign part3 and attach with screws. This completes sub-assembly 2. Sub-assembly 3 -On the inside of one part2, align one part 9(7inches long) along the top,butt end flush to back side of part2(glue and screw). do the same at the bottom. Align another part9(8 1/2 inches long) along the front, opposite of top and bottom. Holes need to be drilled in the bottom part9 to be attached to part3. Align to part3 and allow for a 1/16 inch shadow line on part3. Mark and drill holes. Do a mirror image assembly for the second part 2.(see fig.1) On the underside of part1, align one part2(upright and side brace part9- 8 1/2 inch- facing forward) along the 12 inch portion leaving a 1/16 inch reveal or shadow line (see fig.3 top right)( make sure the holes to attach part3 are facing up). Move it back as far as it will go with no overhang.(see fig.1) Do a mirror image assembly on the opposite 12 inch portion. Part8 should be turned upright on it's edge, glued and screwed 4 inches from the front edge and centered from edge to edge(see fig.1and2). Parts10 should be placed face down in a V-formation 3 inches from the angle edges and 6 3/4 inches from the point (see fig.2and3). Glue and screw in place. At this point, it is a good to round over the point just a little to prevent it from causing damage to your corners. Flip part1 assembly over and align the holes to the mounting bolts on part 3. Install nuts and tighten.(No glue). Measure between Parts1 and 4. Cut two pieces(approx. 11 5/8 for model b or 9 7/8 for model c) that length and 1 1/2 inches wide and two glue block about 2 inches long. Attach one end of the 11 5/8 inch piece to part9 with screw. Then align glue block with the bottom of the 11 5/8 piece. glue and screw block down to part 4. then attach the 11 5/8 piece to block with screw.(see fig.2and5) Sub-assembly 4 -Glue and align two part6's face to face and use a few scerws to keep them together.Do the other two. On the back side of part5 glue,align Part6. Screw into part6 assemblies thru the front of part5. Cut out the driver holes and paint this assembly flat black. then cover with grill cloth. Install tweeter and mid-range horn lense At this point you should drill two holes thru the forward facing part9- 8 1/2 inch piece (see fig.1). These holes will allow you to mount parts 5 and 6 from inside the overall assembly.. Support the horn lense with a metal strap once installed. Install the mid-range driver. Mounting the top section to the bass bin is easy. You will need two L-shaped brackets, two bolts with wood threads on one end and nut type threads on the otherand two wing nuts. On the side of the bass bin measure back about 12 inches from the front and down about 3/8 inch from the top. Screw in the L-bracket so the top of the bracket is down the measured 3/8 inch. Align the top section on top of the bass bin. With a nail or an awl, mark into the bottom of the top section thru one of the holes in the L-bracket. Remove top section and drill pilot holes on each side. screw in the bolts with the wood thread ends going into the top section. Realign top section on top of the bass bin with the other ends of the bolts going thru the holes in the L-brackets. Tighten the two sections together with wing nuts. Model C top section can be achieved by eliminating part 3 and 7. Attaching sub-assembly 3 directly to part 4. All other measurements and proceedures remain the same. These instructions are based on my assembly experience with this project. Others may vary. Sorry about that.I overlooked that one inch height measurement on part 7. I gave the length and thickness but no height. It is one inch. Congrats on the amp. Gonna be a sweet set-up. I'm jealous. Now you'll have to shell out a few more bucks for a high end cd player, interconnects,etc.,etc.,etc. It never stops. Boy, you are hooked now....LOL! Brett, Yes, the riser is 1" tall. I'm sure the 299 will work well with your speakers. My speakers are KBRL. The trim piece is 1/2"thick x 2"tall, bigger than I thought! The riser piece is 1" tall. I think I know where you are referring to when you say: "From pictures it looks like the bottom plate on the upper horn only goes back to where it meets the wall". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 Dylan, That's a pretty outstanding effort there. Nice drawings, instructions. Must have been a lot of work to produce. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwardre Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 No kidding. Dylan, WOW. Tom....I assume you are documenting your Belle efforts as thoroughly....? I have nothing to add other than to wonder as follows. My '53 khorn was a c-type that I likewise converted to a B. However, there is a question in my mind as to whether the b-types were always set back by 5/8" or whether this occured sometime after '53. My '53 c-type was not set back at all but rather flush top to bottom, with just the grille assembly setback 3/8ths. I toyed with the idea of setting the top section back like a modern khorn, but when I had the plate and collar built and set in place, the unit looked much better flush (to me), so that's where I ended up securing it. Was wondering is modern c-types are flush - that is the top plate flush with the center plate - or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 My '60 B's are set back about 5/8 -- 3/4. All the pics of C's Ive seen look like they're flush, but B's are set back. As far as actually building goes, this implies that the 3 horizontal plate making up the top are not the same size. As for the doco on the Belles, I'm working on that. Probably won't be thorough as Dylans, tho'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 I have a pair of 1974 C version Khorns and the upper section is set back 1" to the grill cloth. I was thinking about making the B mod on my K-horns but I now enjoy the look of the C. One thing to think about is the extra inch seems to raise the sound from the 2 horns above your head. Not much but something to think about. I also think the value is somewhat changed once you alter the original. Let me know how you do with your changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwardre Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 So if the "C"s are flush and the "B"s are set back, wouldn't that mean that in order to recess a "C" to a "B", you would not only have to fabricate an additional 'plate' and collar, but the upper section plates as well? Or you would have to CUT the "C" top piece and 'bottom of the top section' piece (EGADs!!!) in order to have a recessed top that fits flush to the corner, right? Curious as to how others addressed this. I think the Khorn looks better flush up and down, and so I didn;t think of this until now. Another thing is that any modification I perform needs to be completely reversable, so that I can return to bone stock if desired. I would think that cutting an inch or so off the upper section would devalue....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 Here's side shots of a "B" (I downloaded this from the forum some time ago)... DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 Thanks Dylanl and others... I've been hunting for a (relatively) local pair of Khorn... with no luck so far... but this info could be quite usefull depending on what I find. Would you believe I didn't even realise that the "B" models top section stepped back!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 I have other pictures if you need them. I am having real difficulty uploading my files to this site. Sorry. Email me at Artvandelay1@peoplepc.com and I will forward them to you if you would like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 My '76 "C" style also has the 1" set-back. I think there were a couple different styles of "C" Khorn. I remember seeing different versions in some of the old brochures with a price list and the one that was flush from top to bottom was a little cheaper. They had different names which I can't recall at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 Is this what you mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted September 28, 2004 Share Posted September 28, 2004 I think I finally figured out how to post pictures so here it goes I guess not. Take 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted September 28, 2004 Share Posted September 28, 2004 I think I finally figured out how to post pictures so here it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted October 12, 2004 Share Posted October 12, 2004 ---------------- On 9/10/2004 12:36:26 PM Dylanl wrote: I have other pictures if you need them. I am having real difficulty uploading my files to this site. Sorry. Email me at Artvandelay1@peoplepc.com and I will forward them to you if you would like. ---------------- I'd be interested in the pictures (figures) you've referred to in your text document... as I think it would help me understand pieces (8) and (10) amongst others. Also shouldn't there be two structural vertical pieces holding the top panel at it's back edge? Have you figured this online posting thing out... or should I email you instead. I can post them on here for the others... I also had a couple of additional questions about converting a "D" to a "B" model... does anyone have the exact measurements for the side grills and their mounting anchors? Thanks... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted October 12, 2004 Share Posted October 12, 2004 Here is a drawing of the sections: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted October 12, 2004 Share Posted October 12, 2004 This sucks, Sometimes it works & other times it does not. I cannot figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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