m00n Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Hey, very informitive! Great topic at a great time! We have some old Sanyo speakers that look like poo poo and I want to rebuild the cabinets for them. Looks like ply is the way to go. However, considering they are just Sanyo mass market speakers, not sure if the cost of ply is worth it. HOWEVER, I don't want to ruin my table saw blades or router bits.... HMMMM.... Decisions decisions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodger Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 MDF is subject to the amount of glue put "in the mix." As there are visible voids in Plywood, there are voids in MDF. Nobody likes to talk about them. And they are not seen like Plywood. You can predict shrinking and swelling of Plywood. MDF is a crap shoot. Also vibration, as one would attain in a sub, would have an effect on any screws. Also with MDF you do not know if it is 100% of this wood so you can put factors in. dodger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 so have we come to a conclusion on this? MDF or Ply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 I vote for MDF, even though not as strong, it is more of a uniform material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 If you are using 9 or 11 ply birch or oak, it is pretty consistent and uniform. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim E Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 ---------------- On 1/21/2005 8:03:34 PM m00n wrote: so have we come to a conclusion on this? MDF or Ply? ---------------- mOOn, There is no simple answer and I doubt there will be conclusion. Klipsch is one of the very few manufacturers that use plywood for speaker cabinet construction (outside of road gear). I respect their effort at keeping these true to the original design. It is my belief that material should be selected for the application, available tooling for the job and the individuals woodworking ability. Material cost for DIY speaker cabinets is somewhat low no matter which material you choose. I have a related question. I read on this Forum that LaScalas and Belles were assembled by hand with glue and mostly 1/4" by 1 1/8" crown staples. I think this was posted by HDBRBuilder. In this thread I keep reading how screws don't work going in on edge without pre-drilling MDF. While pre-drilling is always a good idea (even in plywood), where are there butt joints on these cabinets that require the use of any "edge" screws? I'm just curious because staples work just fine on MDF as well. BTW I use coarse thread drywall screws on MDF and plywood and have rarely experianced any problems on either material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 Jim, I was under the impression that the LS used ring nails for the butt joints, like where the top of the cabinet rests on the two side pieces. I think there are very few, or no, screws in the LS cab. Klipsch didn't intend for you to take it apart, as access to the drivers is available in the finished enclosure. I didn't think the LS used staples at all, although going back over Andy's notes, he says they did. Since there are no cleats in the LS, so the most difficult joint to nail is the front "V" on the doghouse and probably where the back parts of the "V" attach to the two parallel side pieces on the doghouse. Perhaps the staples were used there. If Andy is around, I'm sure he could provide more details. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim E Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 ---------------- On 1/22/2005 9:53:10 AM Marvel wrote: Jim, I was under the impression that the LS used ring nails for the butt joints, like where the top of the cabinet rests on the two side pieces. I think there are very few, or no, screws in the LS cab. Klipsch didn't intend for you to take it apart, as access to the drivers is available in the finished enclosure. I didn't think the LS used staples at all, although going back over Andy's notes, he says they did. Since there are no cleats in the LS, so the most difficult joint to nail is the front "V" on the doghouse and probably where the back parts of the "V" attach to the two parallel side pieces on the doghouse. Perhaps the staples were used there. If Andy is around, I'm sure he could provide more details. Marvel ---------------- Thanks Marvel, These small details are interesting. Andy also stated he made a jig for the LS doghouse that allowed him to use glue only on the sharp front angle. The factory nailed this area. Ring shanks make sense but I have found 1/4" crown staples hold very well and the gun can be adjusted to sink the staple just below the surface. A little color matched putty and the staple disapears. The down side is these staples are almost impossible to remove if you screw up. I don't believe the fasteners do much after the glue sets. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 I had thought of using a strip of fiberglass on the inside of the point on the doghouse. It would strengthen it as well as provide a complete seal. Then again, you won't be taking it apart! I think you are probably right in that once the glue sets, the fasteners aren't doing a whole lot. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koncrete Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 Marvel, glassing the inside of the box has proved to cause more resonance then it helps. If your worried about your box flexing then you need to brace it better internally. If your worried about resonance you can always rely on the sheet style sound deadeners like dynamat or brown bread, they even have some really good paint on deadeners that are pretty amazing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 Konkrete, My comment on glassing the inside of the doghouse only concerned the very point. Not to stiffen as much as seal and strengthen the joint. Maybe a one inch strip at max. The sides forming a pentagram it is pretty solid in itself. The individual pieces aren't large enough to cause much resonance. (maybe, but not with the right wood) Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koncrete Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 my mistake man, I glanced over it quickly and got the idea you were thinking of glassing the complete inside of the enclosure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.