krzys Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Hey Klipsch guys. I just got my first pair of Cornwalls. They are II type made in 1986. I wanted to open them and look inside but only mange to take of the horns. What the hell is the way to take the woofers of? They seem to be glued. And please dont respond in the easy way, Ive taken the bolts out. Looking trough the squeaker opening I had two big surprises: there is a massive wood bracket between the front and rear panels and there is no trace of any acoustic treatment or filing. Is that normal for Cronwalls II? What really surprise me is the lack of any acoustic filing this goes opposite to any speaker theory I know, you know standing waves and so one. Somebody can comment on these issues? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boom3 Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 I'll jump in. The CW IIs-I also have an 86 pair so welcome to the club-either have some kind of caulk around the woofers or the gaskets are really stuck to the baffle. Unless the woofers go bad, don't try to take them out. There are plenty of pictures in this forum of what the Cornwall Ones look like inside. The Cornwall Twos (and perhaps some of the later Ones) have extra bracing inside to cure some resonance problems. And yes, there is no damping inside. The design was optimized without it. http://www.belgaudio.com/kcmap.htm This is a test report on a pair of 86s and is one of the most complete independant reports done on any Heritage model. It has several pix of the inside to satisfy our curiosity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 The woofer is not glued it is a just a thin foam gasket behind it that may have broken down over the years. The woofers will come out with some very gentle prying with a butter knife little by little in different spots around the woofer until it breaks free. Make sure that the speaker is lying on its back when you do this. There is NO insulation of any kind in the '86-'90 Cornwall II's, a rap on the side with your knuckles makes a resonating sound. I purchased and applied acoustic panels with Scotch 77 spray adhesive that smoothed out the bass response considerably. The crossver network in them is one the saddest looking things that I have ever seen, really el cheapo! They still sound good though, with a little work they could be better though. They still sounded more detailed than my '62 verticals due to the newer midrange and tweeter drivers. The K-34 woofers are identical mechanically to the K-33's the only difference is the outer trim ring is thinner due to the fact that they are flush mounted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodger Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 When relating to Vintage Klipsch, there is no bracing, save for the folds in the bas bins of the LaScalas, Belles and K-Horns. PWK and many feel that there is no need for bracing or interior acoustical treatment. IMHO, knocking on the cabinets will show resonance. I modified a pair of Hereseys by cutting 1 x 2s to the size and used liquid nails to attach the pieces to the sides, top, bottom and back. If doing this the piece for the back has to be offset due to the size of the mid horn projection. I also added Dyna-Mat to the walls. As noted, some disagree with this. It does lower the efficiency by 1 - 2 db. However the cabinet is not in the resonant point any more. PWK did not believe in the adding of additional materials to the interiors. I believe a portion of that thought may be the slight decrease in efficiency and his belief that the Vintage Line Speakers were not in need of such. The modifications I mentioned were to the Original, metal Horn Heresys. I also added Dyna-Mat to the metal horns, none to the drivers. Adding to the drivers would completely change the sound and would be self defeating. These were to mine and I note what I did. Any decision to modify must be decided upon and evaluated by the owner. dodger EDIT POST: Cornawall IIs do have a brace, as noted in the next post. END EDIT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Dodger, the Cornwall II does have an internal brace in it, just below the composite midrange horn if I remember correctly. It runs from back to front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodger Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 ---------------- On 1/10/2005 1:23:05 PM Frzninvt wrote: Dodger, the Cornwall II does have an internal brace in it, just below the composite midrange horn if I remember correctly. It runs from back to front. ---------------- Thanks, Post Edited. When you worked on your Cornwalls, how many coats did you use on the interior? Trying to compare spray vs Dyna-Mat. Have a lot of that, but it is a pain. Especially if access is not as easy as the Heresys. Thanks, dodger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Dodger, I applied acoustic foam panels that I purchased from Parts Express and adhered them to the surface using the Scotch 77 quick drying spray adhesive. It goes quick, fit to size, trim, spray with glue, stick into place pressing firmly and violah! They were about 1" thick and egg crate shaped on one side, flat on the other. I think it was like $50-$60 for a dozen panels and I used around 10 of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krzys Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 Ok Frzninvt but how you did that? Did you take the woofers out ? Guys thanks for the information. Ralative to a previous post. I also was desapointed by the quality of the crossover . Looks like Radio Shack Mach 3 loudspeaker I once had. I think that the capacitors are the first pieces to be changed/upgraded, they are electrolytics ! Wash ! Any expiriences with other capacitors ? How did the upgrade change the sound ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Yes, I was able to apply all the acoustic panels via the woofer hole. I would certainly pull the crossover networks, I am not sure if the board they are on is screwed or glued down. I think that I saw two screws holding them down. They do not even have a terminal strip, it looks like paper clips hammered into the wood that all the leads and components are soldered to. I would pull the whole board and leads and replaced most of components and all of the wire. I was suprised that they sounded as good as they did after seeing that network in there. Cheapest network that I have seen in a Klipsch speaker for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 ---------------- On 1/10/2005 2:24:21 PM Frzninvt wrote: Dodger, I applied acoustic foam panels that I purchased from Parts Express and adhered them to the surface using the Scotch 77 quick drying spray adhesive. It goes quick, fit to size, trim, spray with glue, stick into place pressing firmly and violah! They were about 1" thick and egg crate shaped on one side, flat on the other. I think it was like $50-$60 for a dozen panels and I used around 10 of them. ---------------- You might want to try carpet pad from Home Depot. I got "the good stuff. 33 cents a square foot. For about 7-8 bucks I got more than enough to do a pair of Corn's and the brace. The carpet pad is made up of chunks of variable density foam bonded into a sheet. These various densities and sizes act on different frequencies, the overall monolith acts on the lower resonances. AFAIK I did not come up with this idea myself, I read about a higher end speaker builder that uses nothing else in his single driver, bass reflex enclosures. He said that he can't get anything better for more money so why spend it. Being cheap myself , I used it in my KG-4.5 mod experiment. Definitly cleaned up and improved the boominess of the bass. YMMV, IMHO, etc,etc. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 "I think that the capacitors are the first pieces to be changed/upgraded, they are electrolytics ! Wash !" Since you don't know anything, the electrolytic cap is in parallel with the woofer, the mids and highs only go through the film caps. Please waste your money replacing that electrolytic with the most expensive cap you can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krzys Posted January 11, 2005 Author Share Posted January 11, 2005 Hi DJK. I totaly agree with your statement. If the only electrolytic cap is the one paralel with the woofer it makes no sense to repalce it. I actually just have a quick look inside and on a schematic found on the forum. On this schematic all caps are drawn as electrolyitic. I have to check and if they are film I'll have to apologise to Klipsch desingners... BTW i'm sure that some of us have tried different film caps, any report please ? Chris Added on 01/12 So I have to apologise. The other caps are film. The crossover still looks a bit cheap with thin coils and 'amateur' terminals but since it works... and works so well why change ? I love my new Cornwalls. Since so many years I was missing the snap and impact they give. Long live for the Heritage Klipsch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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