Jim E Posted February 5, 2005 Share Posted February 5, 2005 Here is a drawing based on the information I've been able to collect here on the Forum so far. The pdf file is 1/4 scale on architectural "D" size. Would anyone be interested in checking the dimensions or adding some information to the file? LaScala.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 5, 2005 Share Posted February 5, 2005 Jim, This is awesome! I have been trying out different cad programs this past week, when I had time (which wasn't much), trying to do what you just did. Glad I didn't get anywhere. Since I don't have a pair here, I can't check anything out, but I will look for anything obvious. With your permission, I will post this on my website with some of the 3D renders I've done of the LS (like the attached). Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim E Posted February 5, 2005 Author Share Posted February 5, 2005 Marvel, Thank you for the kind words. Any help with the construction details of these would be great. I certainly would not post this file as fact until all the information is accurate and complete. What is your website address? Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 Cut all 22-1/4" items without moving the fence, box will be square that way(rip oversize and re-saw if need be). Set the blade to 30*, take your time and get it right. If your blade heels (most do), set the fence to be parallel with the blade. The set on the teeth should just shave the aux fence. An auxillary fence is used to cut the 60* angle, the board will be fed vertically into the blade. Use the next chamber angle board as a push board, then the ramps, then an absolutely square push board will be needed for the last item. Cut all ramps in one piece at 60* and 30*, then re-saw to 3" (add for your saw kerf). A brad nailer is used on the 60* boards to attach to the chamber sides and (later) make the front angle. I use 8d galvanized casement nails for about everthing else. With skill they can be driven flush without a nailset and leave no mark on the wood. Lay the chamber sides into a grove on the saw top. Lay the chamber angle sides on top and square up with the table edge. Tack in with two wire brads, then carefully pull appart. Apply glue to the joint, re-assemble, tap the two brads in all the way, and check to see if it is still square. Nail the rest of the joint with brads. Check for square (easier to fix now than later). This is all much easier than it sounds. Set the T-nuts (I use a c-clamp), make sure they have threads!. Glue and nail the ramps onto the motorboard. Draw lines on the motorboard so your nails will actually hit the ramps. Blunt the point of the nails to avoid splitting. Dry fit. Drive two nails for each ramp, but only a fraction of an inch into the ramp. Mark the order of the ramps on the motor board. Knock apart. Glue. Drive the nails home, add a third nail to each ramp if you like. Use a Surform body file if you need to loose any wood that hangs out past 22-1/4", the points should hang over the 15-1/4" width. Line up the motorboard assembley with the back and draw nail lines for the ramps. Cut the deflector shorter than 13", it will save a lot of grief. Attach to the back. Are your nail lines going to be visable? Dry fit the side/angle assembley to the motorboard with a couple of blunted nails. Start all the nails you will use. Glue. Make sure its square. Drive home the nails. Repeat for the other side/angle assembley. Use a small spacer to keep the front angle open while you work. When the whole mess is square, remove spacer and use the brad nailer on the front angle. If the doghouse is not square at this point, stop and fix it. Dry fit the chamber bottom to the back with two or three nails, then dry fit the doghouse to the bottom with a couple of nails. Glue on the bottom. Glue on the back. Dry fit the chamber top. Glue on the top. I use a two-flute panel cutter with a guide bearing to cut the woofer mounting hole in the bottom, use the brad nailer to tack on a guide for the router to follow the front edge of the cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockets Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 Jim, the best I can tell you've picked up the errors I've found, though I didn't have time to check all the other measurements. Good job, BTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 Jim, Part 13: Back Brace -- you have 23 3/4. Should be 22 1/4 to fit inside the side walls, and be the same size as upper (front) baffle? You have the total height to be 35 1/4. Klipsch has 35 1/2. Your numbers add up though, so I'm not sure what they are doing. Could be a mistake on their part (wouldn't be the first time). Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockets Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 Just measured mine. Back brace 22 1/4. Total height 35 1/4. Sorry I didn't have time to measure earlier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 Motorboard is 22-1/4", shown correct in detail, wrong on list. The furniture glides on the bottom (not shown) add about 1/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 Jim, you really are on a roll... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim E Posted February 8, 2005 Author Share Posted February 8, 2005 Thank you Formica...I just rolled this this one. It now has the 1/4" high glides shown and hopefully all the corrections. Jim LaScala1.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 Jim, Over the pie slice logo and your name there appears to be some jumbled text, or characters stacked one on top of the other. Is it a secret? Marvel EDIT: Never mind. It opened in an older version of Acrobat and staked all the titles (Section A, B, C, etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbajner Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Jim, first off, thanks for the detailed plans I have a few questions regarding the layout first question: what is the spacing between the the chamber side and side board? looking at the 22 1/4" inside cabinet and the overall dog house width of 16 3/4" gives 5 1/2" divide by 2 gives 2 1/4" space between chamber side and side board, correct? what is the measurements/spacing between the motherboard and back board? would it be the same 2 1/4" as the side spacing? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Actually 2 3/4" I have heard it should be 3", as the back is 3". It will work fine and the 1/4" difference will not hurt. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 3 inches would be preferred, but 1/4" variance will not hurt anything. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbajner Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 MARVEL, you are right, I meant 5.5 / 2 to give 2.75 3" for the space between the motherboard and the back board it is then thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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