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At last! The RF-7


despatch

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Sorry for the double post. (I can't figured out how I did that. )

I finally bit the bullet and puchased a pair of RF-7s from my local Ultimate Electronics Retailer. Hats off to the outstanding sales and service support I received from the Ultimate Electronics sales staff. I will not elaborate to much on the performance of the RF-7 other than simply sensational. The beautiful cherry finish enriched by the sensationally clear and full sound has transformed my listening area in a live sound stage!

My question...

Any suggestions on a power amp to run the RF-7s only. My receiver surprisingly shut itself off last night during certain scenes of the movie "The Haunting" while running the RF-7s. The receiver would not shut down while running the RF-35s

*Of course I had the receiver turned up louder than usual.

*I have not expereienced this problem with any other media with the volume turned up (Music and Movies in DTS, Dolby Digital, & stereo) with either the RF-7 or RF-35

Here is my set-up

Pioneer Elite VSX-53tx (100w x 7) receiver

RSW-15, RF-7, RS-7, RC-35

Thank you

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Congrats on the upgrade.

It sounds like you have just experienced the RF-7's ability to dip down to the 3 Ohm region. I think most RF-7 owners will agree that you need a SS amp with at least 200 per channel into 8 Ohm to drive these speakers for HT.

I use an Acurus A250 as my amp. A lot of members like the Sunfire and Rotel Amps. Aragon is another good amp to try.

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It sounds like you have just experienced the RF-7's ability to dip down to the 3 Ohm region. I think most RF-7 owners will agree that you need a SS amp with at least 200 per channel into 8 Ohm to drive these speakers for HT.

Rather than looking at any 8 ohm spec, look for a high current amp that that drive that low (rated for 4 ohm, perhaps 2 ohms). I'm surprised that the Elite can't do it, but then it isn't really rated for it either. h/k and NAD receivers could push that load.

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What is the most economical power amp that fits in the price range of $300 to $500.00 that will maximize the productivity of my RF-7 towers for both music and movies. The RSW-15 is always running during music and was thinking that I will not need a premier model power amp because I am running my sub. I simply want to maximize the quality of the sound on my new RF-7s. (bass extension- highs, mids, and low.)---everything within reason

Here are my speaker settings.. (pionner elite receiver)

RF-7 set at large

side surrounds (small)

rears (small)

Sub setting (Yes, plus)

*I went into my acoustic equalizer and turned up the bass frequencies on the towers (from 0.00 to 2.5) which may have caused the receiver to shut down during the movie "The Haunting." I was just not getting enough bass from the RF-7s prior to changing the calibration settings on the equalizer.

??? How do the Outlaw amps sound???

Thanks again

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On 2/13/2005 10:46:56 PM despatch wrote:

What is the most economical power amp that fits in the price range of $300 to $500.00 that will maximize the productivity of my RF-7 towers for both music and movies. The RSW-15 is always running during music and was thinking that I will not need a premier model power amp because I am running my sub. I simply want to maximize the quality of the sound on my new RF-7s. (bass extension- highs, mids, and low.)---everything within reason

Here are my speaker settings.. (pionner elite receiver)

RF-7 set at large

side surrounds (small)

rears (small)

Sub setting (Yes, plus)

*I went into my acoustic equalizer and turned up the bass frequencies on the towers (from 0.00 to 2.5) which may have caused the receiver to shut down during the movie "The Haunting." I was just not getting enough bass from the RF-7s prior to changing the calibration settings on the equalizer.

??? How do the Outlaw amps sound???

Thanks again
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i will recommend an amplifier that will easily handle the low impedance demands of the RF-7's and is in your price range...

get a crown professional XLS 402 amplifier rated at 260 watts per channel @ 8 ohms... they sell on ebay and at online retailers for under $400....

many people have used these pro amps with great success in home theater applications...

http://www.crownaudio.com/amp_htm/xls.htm

you can replace the fan with a lower noise alternative or simply disconnect the fan with great results....

i personally use a carver professional ZR1000 digital amplifier in my system to power my KLF-30's.... it is a pro amp that can easily handle low impedance loads... and gives me 225 watts per channel @ 8 ohms... (they are more expensive - that is why i did not recommend my amplifier to solve your problem - roughly $800 new online)

IMHO... i would not recommend the outlaw amplifiers... the crown i suggested above is a much better alternative...

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The Outlaw 200W Monoblocks will drive the RF-7's to insane levels! I took the plunge and ordered the amps from Outlaw with the notion that I was going to probably return them prior to their 30 day trial period....I still have them. For the money they can't be beat!

For Home-theater material you may find that running the RF7's at 80Hz and above and letting the sub handle the rest to be the best option. For 2 channel listening...full range is great...especially with the Outlaw M200's.

I also would double check the wiring and make sure nothing is shorted. Unless you were really cranking it...the Pioneer should not have gone into protection mode.

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Thanks for the info! I will check the wiring on my receiver tommorow. Starting to get a little concerned here. I've only had the receiver for about a year and would be very dissapointed if I had to get it serviced. (My new RF-7s would be powerless.

By the way... I have the cross over set at 80hz

The receiver shut down 4 different times during the DTS trailer demo of the haunting. I just don't think the receiver should have shut down at the volume levels I had them at. I drove star wars Episode 2 to similar levels and sometimes higher with no shut down. My brother provided me with this dts demo dvd which he burned off the net. It features the haunting, eagles, saving private ryan, roy orbison etc. I cannot see any reason why obtaining this dts trailer off the net and burning it to a dvd would cause any problems with the receiver processing of the material. I drove the hec out of rf-35s with this same trailer with no shut down....

Sorry for the rambling here... I will check the wiring..

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Despach,

Set the RF-7s as small until you get an outboard amp. Also look for a strands of wire that may cause a short as a prior poster stated.

Ther RF-7s use a woofer section that draws a lot of current so that the cones can keep up with the horn. The woofer section is about a 3.5 ohm load very roughly with a minimum of 2.8 ohms per S&V.

Pioneer recommends that their receivers be run with 8 or 6 ohm speakers and set the protection circuit accordingly. The Pioneer 56TXi or 59TXi would be less likely to shut down due to better power supplies.

Again, it is the bass frequencies that are causing the problem. Cut any bass boost and run the RF-7s as small till you get an outboard amp. The RSW-15 should put out plenty of bass.

Also, loud sounds will make you deaf over time.

Bill

PS: Make sure that the Pioneer has at least 8 inches of space above it to dissipate the heat. It has a thermal protection circuit. B

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One thing that might help until you upgrade your amplification: Have you set the receiver to 6 ohm mode? I am assuming you can do that with yours, because I have my 55TXi set that way. It's driving B&W 703's, whose woofers operate at around 3 ohms over most of their range, and I have not had any shut-downs yet.

Another thing you may want to consider: bi-amping - put a nice beefy low impedence capable amp on the woofers, and let the receiver handle the horn. I have also had good luck with this approach driving the B&W's, which are considerably less efficient than your RF-7's.

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Sorry not familiar with Pioneer Elite VSX-53tx, does it let you set the crossovers for the LFE and whether to direct bass to both the L/R mains or just the LFE? Perhaps just use the LFE (RSW15 - great sub) Could help if you can to set it higher, like 80hz if you can. IMO you have brought some very nice speakers after a little equipment tweeking they are going to sound awesome.

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On 2/14/2005 12:52:49 AM ottscay wrote:

Why don't you set the rc-7s to small? I think that should reduce your power consumption to those channels (at lest until you get seperate amps for them), and since the sub is picking up the low frequency anyways...?

Just a thought, good luck!

Scott

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i aggree with ottscay:

if you set the rf7 as small, the sub will produce the bass and the rf will ask less power.

or try different frequencies for the crossover on your amp.

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On 2/14/2005 12:52:49 AM ottscay wrote:

Why don't you set the rc-7s to small? I think that should reduce your power consumption to those channels (at lest until you get seperate amps for them), and since the sub is picking up the low frequency anyways...?

Just a thought, good luck!

Scott

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i aggree with ottscay:

if you set the rf7 as small, the sub will produce the bass and the rf will ask less power.

or try different frequencies for the crossover on your amp.

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On 2/14/2005 10:18:02 AM jacksonbart wrote:

Sorry not familiar with Pioneer Elite VSX-53tx, does it let you set the crossovers for the LFE and whether to direct bass to both the L/R mains or just the LFE? Perhaps just use the LFE (RSW15 - great sub) Could help if you can to set it higher, like 80hz if you can. IMO you have brought some very nice speakers after a little equipment tweeking they are going to sound awesome.

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the 53tx is similiar to the 55txi that i own.... it has three speaker settings

small, large and plus

on "plus" it sends a full range signal to your mains AND sends bass frequencies to your sub....

and yes - the crossover frequencies are adjustable!

1.gif

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One other thing I just thought of. Try disconnecting one speaker at a time and playing the source that shut down your receiver. When it doesn't shut down any more, you've found the speaker or wire that is giving you trouble. I went through the same scenario with my RF-5's. After I fount the guilty speaker I found that there were 2 wires barely touching in the top woofer. The 2 wires that lead to the center of the speaker have no insulation on them. They are very long to compensate for the movement of the cone. All I had to do was physically seperate them and my receiver quit shutting down. It was also pretty cool to see the size of the magnets they use on the drivers.

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Thanks for all the help guys. I just went through all of my wiring connected to the blue jeans banana plugs and found no lose strands of wire touching the wrong terminal. Later this week i will tweek the speaker settings from large to small and see what happens.

I have another question...

I am going through upgrade hell! I never thought I would need to replace my RF-35, RC-35, & surrounds thinking that I have a better system than 90 percent of home theatres owners and it sounds great! (the set-up sure drained the bank account)

What little did I know... 1 year later I am in the midst of scrapping this whole set-up and moving up to the big boys RF-7 and the rest of its companions. (Wow I could have paid off my car by now---but what fun would that be.)

My question is.....

I am thinking about upgrading my RC-35 center channel to the RC-7. What difference would this make? (Does the RC-35 timber match with the RF-7) The second part of my question is simply should I look at upgrading my center channel before adding a power amp. Which is a better move to do with my current set-up.

thanks

despatch

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