sunnysal Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 First I give Leo credit for having gotten into the innnards of Tripath chipsets so he gets some weight with me on the issue SECOND it simply makes sense that a $90 dollar amp may not have overbuilt its PS section to handle additional load...right? if we were talking about a high-end unit I might think that you could squeeze a few extra jules out BUT not on a mass produced unit that is priced so low. It is simple basic electronic common sense to assume what Leo said...I put the two things together and decided that Leo´s comment was logical and his response to Born2rockU valid. That is why, tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinnie R. Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 ---------------- On 4/28/2005 11:46:25 AM Vinnie R. wrote: Leo, It looks like the TP2050 chip can run up to 36V (recommended max), with an absolute max rating of 40V. I don't think this limit changes if the mode of operation changes...at least they don't specify it. Regards, ---------------- Opps...forgot to mention that even if the power supply voltage is increased, you can't be sure that the Teac module can handle the HEAT with the stock heat sink. And, the stock Teac module uses 28V for the TP2050. Bridging it and boosting the voltage is bound to make this little sucker get HOT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Born2RockU Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 Now, we don't want to catch the house on fire, ...do we, guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfogg Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Tony, " it simply makes sense that a $90 dollar amp may not have overbuilt its PS section to handle additional load...right?" A switching supply can have a great capacity then a linear supply for less money. Comparing the max wattage on the Teac (before clipping) running one amp to full power then running all three channels to full power the max wattage per channel drops by less then 2w. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike stehr Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 It'll just be a small fire....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minn_male42 Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 ---------------- On 4/28/2005 12:43:47 PM mike stehr wrote: It'll just be a small fire....... ---------------- ah yes... but that high quality plastic enclosure should burn rather nicely - good black smoke i would bet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunnysal Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 the smoke happens right before it takes out the woofers with all that bridged POWER! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
playntheblues Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 born2rock, Ben like me is runing dual monos not bridged. If you use one of the L or r channels for your right speaker and use the center channel for your left speaker you will effectively have a dual mono operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinnie R. Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 ---------------- On 4/28/2005 2:11:42 PM playntheblues wrote: born2rock, Ben like me is runing dual monos not bridged. If you use one of the L or r channels for your right speaker and use the center channel for your left speaker you will effectively have a dual mono operation. ---------------- Hi Guy, I actually shouldn't have called the way you are connected a "dual-mono" configuration. True dual-mono should have a separate power supply for each board. You are using two separate boards, but they each share the same power supply. Dual mono is just like monoblock amps, but in one enclosure. My bad! -Vinnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Born2RockU Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 Well, it sounds like in order to BRIDGE everything you must do it INTERNALy...and I am not an electrician. I am just so curious how much different this TEAC would sound w/ dual bridged-channels. Does anyone want to use one of my amps as a test amp, to see what it could possibly sound like, if bridged to two channels using both TRIPATH chips ? 70w X 2ch ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 ---------------- On 4/28/2005 2:45:18 PM Born2RockU wrote: Well, it sounds like in order to BRIDGE everything you must do it INTERNALy...and I am not an electrician. I am just so curoius how much different this TEAC would sound w/ dual bridged-channels. Does anyone want to use one of my amps as a test amp, to see what it could possibly sound like, if bridged to two channels using both TRIPATH chips ? 70w X 2ch ! ---------------- So now we need some technical questions answered: Where can we get power supplies that are adequate? What capacitors do we need to replace and / or add? (to bypass the volume controls)? Does anyone have wiring diagrams? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Vinnie, Welcome to the forum. Good to see you posting. Have enjoyed looking over your website and reading reviews on your work. Also, have had the pleasure to audition Guy Landau's Redwine Audio modded Teac. Very nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinnie R. Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 ---------------- On 4/28/2005 4:21:51 PM Daddy Dee wrote: Vinnie, Welcome to the forum. Good to see you posting. Have enjoyed looking over your website and reading reviews on your work. Also, have had the pleasure to audition Guy Landau's Redwine Audio modded Teac. Very nice work. ---------------- Hey Daddy Dee, Thanks for your kind welcome! I'd love to hear more about your impressions of the Red Wine Teac that you borrowed from Guy L. when you get a chance. I need to add a "testimonials" section for this unit. Besides the battery conversion, I did a bunch of tweaks to the rest of the unit (as stated on my website). I just finished modding one today for another customer, and another one just arrived on my doorstep today Thanks again, Vinnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinnie R. Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 ---------------- On 4/28/2005 4:21:51 PM Daddy Dee wrote: Vinnie, Welcome to the forum. Good to see you posting. Have enjoyed looking over your website and reading reviews on your work. Also, have had the pleasure to audition Guy Landau's Redwine Audio modded Teac. Very nice work. ---------------- Hey Daddy Dee, Thanks for your kind welcome! I'd love to hear more about your impressions of the Red Wine Teac that you borrowed from Guy L. when you get a chance. I need to add a "testimonials" section for this unit. Besides the battery conversion, I did a bunch of tweaks to the rest of the unit (as stated on my website). I just finished modding one today for another customer, and another one just arrived on my doorstep today Thanks again, Vinnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunnysal Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Vinnie I am very interested in your insights into the mods....especially in terms of what maks the biggest differences: 1. taking out the third channel board 2. swapping some key caps and-or resistors 3. bypassing the level controls (not an option for me, I need them in my application) 4. some rewiring 5. battery power 6. others I am wondering what gives the most "bang for the buck" thanks, tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinnie R. Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 ---------------- On 4/28/2005 6:34:51 PM sunnysal wrote: Vinnie I am very interested in your insights into the mods....especially in terms of what maks the biggest differences: 1. taking out the third channel board 2. swapping some key caps and-or resistors 3. bypassing the level controls (not an option for me, I need them in my application) 4. some rewiring 5. battery power 6. others I am wondering what gives the most "bang for the buck" thanks, tony ---------------- Hi Tony, The biggest improvement came about when converting the Teac over to SLA battery power. The removed all signs of grain in the top end and made the bass rock solid and punchier. The unit almost sounds tube-like, but with a very black background (no noise). The SLA batteries have very low internal resistance and provide plenty of clean power! Regarding the amplifer board, power supply capacitance is increased using low ESR caps (which I also bypass), and I wire the B+ line directly to the tiny pins of the amp chip for a nice clean power connection. This seems to add even more bass weight and control. I also beef up the +5V line, which powers the Tripath TC2000 A/D signal process chip (remember, there are two Tripath chips that work together on this board). Bypassing that cheap volume control board (which uses crappy electrolytic coupling caps) and wiring the input directly to the amp module via Auricaps also helped out the sound quite a bit. If you need a volume control in the unit, I suggest you send the inputs to a good potentiometer or even a precision stepped attenuator, and then directly to the amp board via high quality film caps such as Auricaps. Removing the Center Channel board made sense because it draws some power and also may also add a little noise back onto the power rails. I didn't hear a big improvement in doing so, but it is very easy to do and only helps. Hope this helps, Vinnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunnysal Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 thanks vinnie, food for thought...I may get back to you on this stuff. regards, tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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