solarcarl Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 I just picked up a pair of La Scala's with what looks like a cherry colored stain and type AA networks. They are model LS-BR and are serial numbers 12R924 and 12R925. Can any of you tell me the date of manufacture? One thing odd about them is that someone took the squawker and tweeter and mounted them to the face of the cabinet with the screws showing out the front. In other words, they screwed the back face of the horn flange to the front face of the cabinet and now the grill covers dont fit. Before I restore the original mount is there any logical reason they would have done this? From listening to the speakers I hear they could use improvement. Obviously the caps could be replaced. Can anyone recommend caps that are inexpensive since I may not keep the speakers, yet of high enough quality that they will be an improvement? Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 LS=La Scala BR=Birch Raw R = 1977 They flush mounted the horn flanges to the front to get them 3/4" closer to their ears I suppose. The hole for the tweeter might have to had been made larger and perhaps the midrange too, so if you try and put them back the holes may now be too big and it would be noticeable. If they took the tweeter apart and reassembled it after placing it in the hole it may still be the same size. Hard to say though. Yes updating the old oil can caps or entire network will yield an easily distinguishable improvement. The inexpensive route at reworking the networks can be done via Bob Crites, he can refurb the cans with new ones using the existing coil and autoformer I believe this can be done to both networks for less than $100 contact Bob Crites though for accurate pricing information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 oops, sorry, forgot to scroll down and missed Frz's post. Congrats on your purchase. Your LS are type BR, which stands for Birch, Raw, the basic unfinished model. These were made so the ownner could put on the finish of their choice. Your are correct in your statement about crossover upgrades. Consult the Modifications Forum and Lookup BEC and DeanG for info on their products. Don't know why the horns were mounted to face, other than some folks think that there is some edge diffraction with the 3/4 plywood motor board. PWK thought this was a non-issue. Another mod you might try if you have the metal horns is the rope caulk trick, again, look up the Mods column. Basically it is dampening the ringing of the metal horns by applying a solid layer of clay-like caulking to the outside of the horn. I've done it and it works wonders. Welcome to the madness. Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troxell8 Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 Okay, thanks for the LS and BR info.....could you tell me what "TG" means? thanks - BTW, I am selling my la scalas on ebay and I have been referring some questions here because I do not know the answers. You guys seem pretty nice and definitely know your stuff!! Thanks for your help - Cathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 Hello Cathy, TG is Top Grill, which is an option on the La Scala. Other finishes were BL = Birch Lacquer & BLS = Birch Lacquer Stained Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 Why not save the listing fee and list them here? We promise to find them a good, loving home! Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 Charles, Any idea when Klipsch started making the LaScalas available in hardwood veneer finishes? Seems like almost all of them are either black, birch, or industrial. Makes me wonder why they were never considered fine furniture worthy of the better finishes? Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Never a production unit, there was a pair made in Oak or Walnut that Trey Cannon spoke about. Someone that works at Klipsch has them. The only pair ever veneered in hardwood from the factory. Otherwise all the rest were Birch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 No one mentioned that the reason the horns were moved to the front of the baffle (as all the new ones are) was to cut down on the diffraction caused by the 3/4" cutout. Some don't even notice a difference, but best practice would be to have them front mounted. Marvel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 ---------------- On 5/17/2005 8:18:04 AM Marvel wrote: No one mentioned that the reason the horns were moved to the front of the baffle (as all the new ones are) was to cut down on the diffraction caused by the 3/4" cutout. Some don't even notice a difference, but best practice would be to have them front mounted. Marvel ---------------- Actually, look up to colterphoto1's post where he said "some folks think that there is some edge diffraction with the 3/4 plywood motor board. PWK thought this was a non-issue." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Peter, Yeah I missed it. That's what I get for trying to work and read this stuff at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 ---------------- On 5/17/2005 10:07:04 AM psg wrote: some folks think that there is some edge diffraction with the 3/4 plywood motor board. PWK thought this was a non-issue." ---------------- This isn't a rant, but instead, I am going to present what I consider a reasoned approach to the oft-quoted sayings of PWK, some of which are quite true and others which are not. Some of the following can be referenced in Dope-from-Hope, and others in publiched magazine articles, all of which are available on this forum. PWK thought alot of things were a non-issue, but I think he had his reasons, mainly commercial in nature... For instance, his horror that the consumer would ever want to touch the crossover for any reason, his statement that the impedance of the woofer in the Khorn went up to 16 Ohms when loaded in the horn, his thoughts about wires, that the T-35 was just fine for a tweeter, that he reported that the SpeakerLab-K's low frequency response only went down to 70Hz (a fact that I personally KNOW is patently untrue) and that the fixed 45 deg. angle of the top cabinet (and its horns) was best for all concerned. Not that I'm PWK-bashing, rather, I hold him in the highest regard, and I understand his points (and time), but these ALL are pertainent issues NOW aren't they? Maybe, maybe not. Does it boil down to personal taste? So just because PWK said it (somewhere), doesn't necessarily make it true... He is a professional source always worth quoting with the understanding that his published statements may or may not always be correct or may be intended to SELL SOMETHING, which we can reasonably assume to be one of his primary concerns. And he remained a gentleman, highly respected both personally and professionally, and was commercially successful at the same time. The one thing that you can count on is that he had his reasons. Consider the front-or-rear upper frequency mounting in the top cabinet. Everybody KNOWS that it is an issue accoustically, or then why doesn't anyone manufacture horns that feature an abrupt 3/4" column as part of the horn mouth? Well, OF COURSE it's an issue. How could PWK actually say otherwise and expect anyone to swallow it? For years ALL of the production horns used rear mounting, but it's not diffraction, it's reflection and refraction that is a result (diffraction then occurring "off the baffle" but that's another story). And rear-mounting is simplest and therefore cheapest to manufacture. Who in their right mind is going to admit that it increases refraction and we did it because it was cheap? Nobody who wants to sell the things... I rest my case. DM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markus111 Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 ---------------- On 5/17/2005 1:30:17 PM D-MAN wrote: ---------------- On 5/17/2005 10:07:04 AM psg wrote: some folks think that there is some edge diffraction with the 3/4 plywood motor board. PWK thought this was a non-issue." ---------------- Who in their right mind is going to admit that it increases refraction and we did it because it was cheap? Nobody who wants to sell the things... I rest my case. DM ---------------- I agree. There may be an issue (probably small) - not a big enough issue to warrent changing a manufacturing method. It's probably way up on the exponential curve of diminishing returns. You get a 0.05% increase in performance for a 3% increase in manufacturing time and cost - not worth it. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Exactly! DM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BigBore Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 All the problems of the front mounting could be fixed with the careful use of a router and a proper bit. Route out a recess the thickenss of the lip and then the grill will fit and your reflection/refraction problem is reduced. (ok, it may not be that simple, but you may want to look into such a thing) 1BB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 I agree, well written D-man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Let me just add this. If you use the K401.....the composite horn, there will be more to it than puting a router to the existing opening. You will also have to place 4 "notches" in you opeining to accomidate the "ridges" on the horn. Also, the horn won't sit 100% flush because the "lip" has reinforcement where the screws go. In otherwords, the inside of the lip is not a level surface. see this photo for the "notches" http://www.jwcullison.com/csclicktoconvert/image14_15.jpg jc jc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Agreed; probably the easiest "fix" is to carve-out the hard edges of the hole(s) with a rasp to somewhat match the exit angles of the respective horns, as sort of an "extension" of the curves. Now, as said above, whether it's actually WORTH the effort, I'll leave to others... DM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Take a good look at this ftp://www.jwcullison.com/Cornscala/03150009.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts