raypenn Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 I am in the process of replacing the type AA networks in my Belles. Since I had the networks disconnected, I decided to compare the resistance in the woofers and drivers. I don't know if resistance is a good measure of the impedance of a speaker or driver, but would expect that the left and right side should be similar. Using an ohmeter (connections to network removed) I get the following: K-77 round magnet- Left 5.7 ohm right 5.5 ohm k-55 spring type- Left 10.5 ohm Right 10.5 ohm Woofer (k-33?)- Left 3.4 ohm Right 6.8 ohm Should I be concerned about the difference between the two woofers? I am sure that they are both original Belle equipment, approximately 1974. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 Raypenn, Are the two Belles you have a set (consecutive serial numbers)? If they are, it's suspicious they measure different DC resistance. You might want to pop the woofer hatch (under the bottom) and see if the drivers are the same type. Somebody may have replace one and not the other. AL K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 yeah, something is wrong with that right woofer. The Klipsch K-33 is a 4-Ohm unit, the DCR will be a little under 4. The reading for the 6.8, that's more like an 8-Ohm driver. If that's a K-33 something is wrong with it. If it's not a K-33 you can get new ones from Klipsch Parts Dept for around $140. That has to be one of the biggest bargains in audio. Your Belle will not not perform well with some generic 15" woofer. If it a K-33 when you get in there check the DCR right at the terminals on the driver, make sure the wires are disconnected at the crossover end. Possible to have a bad connection where the wires meet the terminals on the speaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2ndGenKlipsch Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 This is a very interesting way to test for problems with drivers. I'm having some issues with my Belle's so I may do the same test on mine when I take out the crossovers for their rebuild. Thanks for the idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 It could also be a bad solder joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 Or, perhaps someone had a woofer reconed and they used an 8 ohm voice coil. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornwalled Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 Hey Guys, Just tested the DCR on my fruity half-baked LaScala and it's 6.8 ohms as well. Shoot, so I have the wrong woofer in this one too! I can't get the hatch apart cause the heads of the screws are all rubbed completely smooth from being drug on the floor. I could drill it out, but then the cab's shot. Looks like it's staying there. -Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raypenn Posted July 11, 2005 Author Share Posted July 11, 2005 Thanks for the help, guys. I opened the bottom of the cabinet and was surprised that the panel gasket still seems good after all these years. I do have the original K-33 square magnet woofer. I think it says K-33 b, but I was reading it using a mirror, so I'm not sure about the suffix. Tom Mobley and Dean were correct - it has a bad solder joint at one of the speaker terminals. It looks fine - nice and shiny, but obviously has broken down. I wonder how long this condition has existed. I have heard about solder joints going bad over time, but never fully believed it, especially in a closed environment with no heat, weather or other issues. Do you think that the sonic performance was degraded (i.e. would somebody with great hearing notice the difference)? Anyway - thanks again - and check your ancient solder joints! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raypenn Posted July 11, 2005 Author Share Posted July 11, 2005 ---------------- On 7/10/2005 10:50:22 PM Cornwalled wrote: I can't get the hatch apart cause the heads of the screws are all rubbed completely smooth from being drug on the floor. I could drill it out, but then the cab's shot. Looks like it's staying there. -Jon ---------------- Jon - I have not tried it, but Sears sells something they call a screw extractor for rounded out heads and situations like yours. I believe that you use it like a drill bit. It would destroy the screw head, but is intended to remove the screw without damage to anything else. It it cheap and comes in different sizes. You might want to give it a try. If you are like me, maybe your problem is as simple as a bad solder joint. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornwalled Posted July 11, 2005 Share Posted July 11, 2005 Sounds like it's worth a shot, of course then I'd have to come up with new screws. I was wondering, isn't the K-33-E an 8 ohm driver, and the K-33P or B a 4 ohm? Or am I mislead here? -Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Robin Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 The screw extractor does not work; I had a set of them but gave them to someone else that wanted to give them a try. Just go ahead and drill the head off of the screw's until you can get the door off then use vise grips to back the rest of the screw out. I work on 30 Million dollar private jets and I am always looking for something that will work to get stripped screws out; but have not been able to find anything yet. Good luck Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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