tpg Posted July 25, 2005 Author Share Posted July 25, 2005 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
updawg Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 Not sure this is the case, but my friends Range Rover constantly was over heating.. he did everything imaginable to find out what was causing this, quite the handyman for a spoiled 19 yr old, he came to find out he had a small crack in the engine block which was causing the over heating. Hope this is not the case but if nothing else seems to work for you might want to check that out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilbert Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 There's nothing magical about the oem fan, if you have to replace it, with one of the Tornado fans or similar and save yourself a few hundred dollars. Besides, the aftermarket fan will come with new temperature sensor(s). Paying $300 for a getting your radiator cleaned is taking it up the wahzoo. They saw the Beamer and guess what. Man, I feel for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisc Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 huh? alright Im not even gonna quote that. first there is no resistor for the radiator fan so dont look for it or youll be looking for a very long time. There are however relay's. all this has nothing to do with the overheating problem, I believe. I will try to remember to look at the wiring diagram for you when I'm at the shop. I had a 318is a while back that someone took the shroud off which was causing random overheating. I had to order the shroud and charged his ac just so the condensor fan would work so he could use the car for the couple of days until his shroud came in. Thats why I dont think the condensor fan is affected by the coolant temp. I still believe low pressure switch is the reason that fan doesnt work. the head gasket test I reffered to uses a blue fluid in a chamber placed over the the resorvoir(in your case) or the top of the radiator. Do you have the BMW radiator that has the resorvoir right on the radiator or is it seperate? If there are combustion gasses present they bubble through the blue fluid turning it clear if there are none it stays blue. any dye that goes through the combustion chamber and then through a red hot catalytic converter and a muffler would be some pretty impressive uv dye. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwatkins Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 I think that you may find that fixing the relays/thermostat for the aux fan could be your culprit - that fan serves two purposes. One is early for air before you are up to high way speed and as aux cooling after the water reaches a certain temperature. It is a design they have used for years - it is also on my 2001 740. The only difference is mine is veriable speed and yours is a two (maybe three) speed unit. I had a periodic overheating - it was almost invariably during some extended stop and go after water was heated up. I was able to clean out some trash and get all working again before taking to the shop. Regardless the aux fan needs replacing - if it isn't the culprit here it will be later. You could put a toggle on the bypass hanging out of the hood (yeah - not classy, but effective) and run it with the aux fan working fora few days to see if it is a cure before doing anything else. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpg Posted July 26, 2005 Author Share Posted July 26, 2005 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted July 26, 2005 Share Posted July 26, 2005 You can get after market electric fans from Jeggs or Summit racing catalogs and wire it in... the diameter of the fan is the only thing to worry about.But if your coolant is leaking out no amount of fan is going to fix it you need to find out where coolant is going.When the cooling system is running at 40% ,,,old radiator,,,old fan ..it all adds up to system overload in the summer.Also the atomatic trasmission is cooled by radiator to so that adds to the heat...install tranny cooler it will help radiator and transmission.....Ok for the pedals just practice while holding on to something and also get use to doing one pedal all the time so you dont have to think about it and unclip before you stop.I think getting clipped in at a light to get going is harder cause your nervous trying to get across the light.Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackbean Posted July 26, 2005 Share Posted July 26, 2005 did you bleed the air from the cooling system ? if there is air in it it will slow the coolant flow. just a thought my daughter was overheating her honda after i replaced the thermostat same problem and no heat cracked the coolant bleedr valve ,let the air out and all was well. good luck john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted July 26, 2005 Share Posted July 26, 2005 You only need bleed the air out if radiator is lower than the head of the engine,,,fiats,hondas,etc....Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisc Posted July 26, 2005 Share Posted July 26, 2005 From what I can see 30 and 85 should have power, I think your on the right track. High speed relay is the same as the low. swap them and see what happens. fuses 29 7.5 amp and 25 30 amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpg Posted July 26, 2005 Author Share Posted July 26, 2005 ---------------- On 7/26/2005 8:02:33 AM travisc wrote: From what I can see 30 and 85 should have power, I think your on the right track. High speed relay is the same as the low. swap them and see what happens. fuses 29 7.5 amp and 25 30 amp. ---------------- 30 and 85? My manual says 30 and 86 (and the wiring diagram shows the same). The wiring diagram also shows the low-speed fan as a 5-pin and the high-speed as a 4-pin. I'll look at both of them to compare. I'm planning on heading out to try to locate a replacement relay soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisc Posted July 26, 2005 Share Posted July 26, 2005 it wouldnt be the first time ive been wrong. but the diagram i pulled up from mitchell showed the same pin numbers as the low speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted August 5, 2005 Share Posted August 5, 2005 Hi did you ever figure out what was causing your overheating problem???Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrol Posted August 5, 2005 Share Posted August 5, 2005 perhaps it's because your a "roadie" because when I went with clippless pedals I learned within the first hour how to avoid the embarrassing and painful crap that you are just now experiancing. But then mountain biking does require that you really have to learn to get out of your pedals quickly AND often so an average mtn biker will have 20 times the experiance with getting in & out of the pedals in just one ride. worry not, it will soon become as natural as, riding a bike, LOL BTW, just to toss out a couple more avantages of mtn biking...you don't seem to run into many folks in the woods, hence less embarassing "bike shorts" sightings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpg Posted August 5, 2005 Author Share Posted August 5, 2005 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBrennan Posted August 5, 2005 Share Posted August 5, 2005 Clipless pedals increase efficiency. Since I ride for the exercise I figure the inefficiency of wearing sandals and using regular pedals is working to my advantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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