RayCanales Posted October 9, 2001 Posted October 9, 2001 I own a set of KLF 30s hooked to a B&K REF 3220 and the damn KLF blew a tweeter like the 3rd time I played them, what the hell never had a problem with Klipsch doing this before I heard that I need to break them in and the amp is not good enough need help Im willing to buy another amp other Klipsch whatever. Quote
dougdrake2 Posted October 9, 2001 Posted October 9, 2001 IMHO - Whoever told you that must sell amps! B&K builds good equipment, so I doubt the amp is at fault, unless...The usual suspect for tweeter's being blown is clipping -- were you cranking it beyond the ability of the B&K? If not, sounds like a warranty issue on the 30's. Call Klipsch at 1-800-KLIPSCH for help. Just my .02 DD2 Quote
RWMIN Posted October 9, 2001 Posted October 9, 2001 I was just wondering if you have treb & bass controls on that unit and if so, what are they set at? Quote
RayCanales Posted October 9, 2001 Author Posted October 9, 2001 I have an Adcom GTP 830 and the bass and treble are all the way up on both. I heard from a so called expert that my amp is underpowered for the KLF 30s and that is why the (super)tweeter fried, also have heard that both the amp and the speakers require a break in period. is this true Quote
rowooo Posted October 9, 2001 Posted October 9, 2001 Ray....No offense but it sounds to me that your so called expert is high as a kite. I would highly suggest you bypass your bass and treble controls on your Adcom or atleast leave them around the midway point. Your amp is not underpowered and you didn't blow the tweeter due to a so called "break in period". Quote
JohnA Posted October 9, 2001 Posted October 9, 2001 Speakers and amps DO NOT need a break-in. Turning the treble on your preamp all the way up could have easily overpowered the tweeter. In addition, turning the bass all the way up could have easily caused the bass notes to clip, even with a 220 watt amp. Clipping generates HUGE amounts of high frequency energy that kills tweeters. Go to Rat Shack and get a sound level meter and use it to keep from clipping your amp. 220 watts is 23 dB louder that 1 watt. the loudest you should be able to get the system, on peaks, is 123 dB at 1 meter from a speaker. BTW, that's insanely loud. If you stop turning it up at 113 dB on the meter at 1 meter away (with no bass or treble boost) you will be relatively safe. Stop at 103 dB, or so with the boost on. John Quote
Mighty Favog Posted October 9, 2001 Posted October 9, 2001 I agree with rowooo, your asking (demanding) your tweeters to produce a louder sound without giving it the wattage to produce it. The amp strains to do this at the current volume level it's set to. The volume control in a rheostat (some call it a varible choke...I don't know why), with out it, music would play at it's loudest until something gives (maximum output possible by the amp or speaker blows). So can they take the amount of power your has on tap? Maybe not all of it for a long period of time. But it deffinitely is not gonna fall on it's face. Try this for a simple test. Get a volt/ohm meter (doesn't have to be fancy, an analog one will do fine) and set it to a 20 volt/AC scale or something close to that. Connect the probes (pos/pos and neg/neg) to the speaker's input connections with the speaker wire still hooked up. Go ahead and play some music at your normal level and watch the meter. Watch for the maximum AC volts it reads. If it's above say 5 1/2 volts this is ear splittingly loud. By the way, 5 1/2 volts AC comes to equal 1.9434~ watts. And your amp can put out how many? Go neutral on the treble settings. You'll also find that you have to turn up the volume further to get to the loudness you want but you'll also have a lot more fine adjustment abilities between two points of the volume's sweep. I learned all this the hard way. I blew two sets of tweeters with all my equipment set to the same settings as my old speakers. They had a sensitivity of 87db/1 watt(or 2.83 volts)/1 meter. Where as my KLF20's are 100db/1watt/1 meter. And your are more sensitive than that even (102db/1 watt/1 meter). For every 3db increase in attenuation (how loud something is) it requires double the power from the amp to get there. Think of it this way, to get to the same volume level your speakers only require 2/3 the amount of power mine do (100db/102db). In closing, after all this is sorted out and you still get carried away blow another tweeter.....the diaphrams are only about $22 each, take a couple days to a week to get from Klipsch and there easy to put in yourself. Have fun, but take it easy... ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany (Cornell Hotwired) McIntosh C33 Preamp McIntosh MVP-841 CD/DVD Rotel RB-1080 Amp Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Ortofon VMS-30 mkII Cartridge Stanton 999SS Cartridge Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 400mk II Monster Interlink 300mk II Monster Video 2 (DVD to TV) Studio Tech U-48RW Cabinet Monster Power HTS-5000 Power Conditioner/Surge Protector Original 12ga. Monster Cable Enough empty boxes for a fire hazard! Quote
TheEAR Posted October 9, 2001 Posted October 9, 2001 I could not resist posting here... How in the blue can you need more bass and highs then the KLF30's can give you on a flat setting?Damn I know the KLF series and this story sounds like a rotten Bo$e AcousticMe$$. The B&K is a very high quality power amp,and anything over a solid 100W RMS per channel can drive the KLF30 to EXTREME volumes.Unless your room is as big as a stadium. Turn down the bass and treble to NEUTRAL.If you need more bass just add a SVS Ultra or the new RSW15.For Klipsch's sake just stop using the BASS and treble boost.You will keep killing the tweeters. I own and owned A LARGE inventory of speakers,from the big to the small and fragile(tweeters).And have yet to burn the voice coil in one.And I blast by systems at inhuman volumes(some over 120dB!).And the amps vary from 50W RMS/ch to over 750W RMS/ch (8 ohms). All this to tell you STOP using the boosters,they are good when used with measure and care.And not at ear bleed levels. You know there is a slim posibility the B&K is faulty. But I am 99% sure the problem resides in the BASS and HIGHS boost. Just my two cents TheEAR(s) Now theears Quote
RayCanales Posted October 9, 2001 Author Posted October 9, 2001 well you guys have been **** loads of help as soon as I get my replacement tweeter in from Klipsch I will set my preamp at mid level my room is not too big it is 20X25 the prob I think too is that I have too many hard surfaces I just built the room for this purpose to Jam the Hell out since the wife dont like ear bleeding levels which I do the room is about 30 yards away from the main house is like what I always wanted a damn party room I will take a pic and post it with a msg, my system btw is need a suggestion on a good CD Player this DVD really sucks for playing CDS (CDRS actually) it does great on DVD Audio and DTS but not CD Adcom GTP 830 B&K Reference 3220 B&K ST1400II Klipsch KLF30 Klipsch KLFC7 Klipsch RB5 (rear) Velodyne HGS12 Mitsubishi 65" HDTV Mitsubishi SRD400 JVC 70K Progressive DVD Audio Player **** loads of Wire World Cables I remember I bought a system in the Army for the price of the damn patch cords. you guys are really good at this I took about a year off and all of the sudden everything I owned was outdated sold everything I kind of miss my Klipsch Fortes Quote
Mighty Favog Posted October 10, 2001 Posted October 10, 2001 You may want to call Randy Gow at Audio Classics in New York ( http://www.audioclassics.com ). They have a pretty good selection of higher-shelf equipment. Granted it's mostly used, but when I got my McIntosh MVP-841 CD/DVD player (retail $3,000) I honestly could not tell that it was a year old. And I only paid $1,700! Their inventory is always changing but the quality is always top notch. Randy is the son of the famous Gordon Gow along with Sidney Cordeman (sp) who designed much of the equipment that McIntosh sold. Now there's some good roots to go on. Boy, I bet Randy had some pretty nifty stuff at HIS house when he was young! The only thing that let me down about the 841 was that it doesn't play CD-Rs or CD-RWs burned on a computer. But if that's not your thing, so what. If you want to look at and 841 goto http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/McIntosh_Products/Home_Theater_Source_Com ponents/MVP831_-_HT/mvp831_-_ht.html . The 831 is the same as the 841 but the 841 has an optical toslink output. The stats on it are still rather impressive. ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany (Cornell Hotwired) McIntosh C33 Preamp McIntosh MVP-841 CD/DVD Rotel RB-1080 Amp Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Ortofon VMS-30 mkII Cartridge Stanton 999SS Cartridge Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 400mk II Monster Interlink 300mk II Monster Video 2 (DVD to TV) Studio Tech U-48RW Cabinet Monster Power HTS-5000 Power Conditioner/Surge Protector Original 12ga. Monster Cable Enough empty boxes for a fire hazard! This message has been edited by tblasing on 10-10-2001 at 02:02 PM Quote
RWMIN Posted October 10, 2001 Posted October 10, 2001 I suspected your problem was due to a boost in the treble area. Everytime you plus 3 db it doubles the power and can cause that kind of trouble. Quote
TheEAR Posted October 10, 2001 Posted October 10, 2001 For bass that can cause a severe earthquake or midrange and highs that will slice the eardrum you can always get a pair of Klipsch PRO,JBL PRO,CerwinVega Pro or EAW speakers and subs! With these you can hit over 135dB with little or no strain and punch thru the crust in a Los Alamos way. Beware the hearing may be GONE out the door for good! Severe radiation may also chase any small living creatures out of the room,house and city. Sarcasm aside the bass and treble boost should be left at 0.If used at all,with caution and reserve. TheEAR(s) Now theears Quote
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