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What's The Cats Meow Of TT Cartridges


Gilbert

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You'll need some tools--really basic stuff. .

Order this stuff today:

http://store.acousticsounds.com/browse_detail.cfm?title_ID=10160

http://store.acousticsounds.com/browse_detail.cfm?Title_ID=15779&section=equipment

You will also need a tracking force guage. The Shure model isn't the right one for your SPU---you need one that measure 0-5 grams and you can either bite the bullet and get one of those fancy $300-$500 digital guages or get the really SIMPLE "Rek-O-Cut" model from Garage-A-Records. I use an ANCIENT Garrad guage that is quite simlar to this plastic Rek-O-Cut guage. It's pretty much fool proof.

http://www.garage-a-records.com/access.html

And you'll need a dry brush. I like the "Decca' brush, but the AQ brush is nice too:

http://www.needledoctor.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.108/it.A/id.760/.f

And some stylus cleaner. I have used lots of them, but the Lyra stuff is GREAT--Gary turned me on to it:

http://www.needledoctor.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.214/it.A/id.808/.f

And a Zerodust is really handy too!

http://www.amusicdirect.com/products/detail.asp?cat=&sku=AZEROD

And how can you live with out a Milty Zerostat?

http://www.needledoctor.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.108/it.A/id.26/.f

And we haven't even talked about CLEANING RECORDS yet!!!

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Art Dudley is my favorite audio writer. Listener was the only audio mag I actually looked forward to reading every month. What a shame it never found a big enough readership.

The TD124 kicks ***. It remains a fist class turntable even though it's been out of production for more than 35 years--it holds it own with new tables retailing for $3500 and more.

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Holy Cow Allan, that's allot of stuff. But I'll order it, man, I'm starting to feel like an audiophile ooohwee. The wife doesn't know yet, but hopefully she'll take it in stride. Like all my other purchases. She is getting excited about the VRD's, and knows I'm up to something different with them, ...heheheh.

Anyway, back to the TT.....I spoke with Kudret and he's figuring things out with shipping the TT.

If you have any idea's or a few good pointers on how to ship that baby, nows the perfect time. Please let me know and I'll pass it to Kudret (unless he's prowling around here [:)].)

He mentioned that the platter would have to be removed and that I would have to oil something. What the helll is it I've got to oil, and what kind of oil do I need to get. I might as well add that to my list of goodies.

Thanks, and I'll be checking back tomorrow sometime.

Happy Easter!

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Gilbert,

I will definitely remove the armboard and the tonearm from the tt, and

pack them in a separate box. I was also thinking about removing the

sub-platter/bearing as one piece and pack them separately. When you

receive it, you'll have to put some oil in the bearing reservoir and

put the sub-platter on. I believe this is the safest way to ship it,

unless there is a better way.

Kudret

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Art Dudley is my favorite audio writer. Listener was the only audio mag I actually looked forward to reading every month. What a shame it never found a big enough readership.

The TD124 kicks ***. It remains a fist class turntable even though it's been out of production for more than 35 years--it holds it own with new tables retailing for $3500 and more.

I liked Listener too. It was fun reading. Their little article about the lowly Dynaco ST70 back in 2000 got me into collecting vintage gear which in turn led me to grabbing a pair of LaScalas, then Klipschorns and so on and so on.

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YES! Ship the subplatter in a SEPARATE BOX.

Otherwise you might end up with JUNK!

How is the thrust plate in this one?

Gilbert,

The thrust plate is the little hardened disc at the bottom of the bearing that the ball bearing is supposed to ride on. Mine had a "divit" in it which is not the way you want it. Easy enough to replace. You'll definitely want to be on the horn with Allan when you get this thing. A similar problem can be had with the motor.

Allan, what's your thoughts on the cast iron platter vs. the zinc-alloy? All the fuss about iron being magnetic. Is that really a problem?

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Thanks, Allan.

Thrust plate (grey teflon plate) had a very small dent (which I've read is normal) and it was in very good condition.

Kudret

How is the rubber (mushrooms and motor mounts)? Replacing all the rubber did more for quieting my TD124 than any other single thing.

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I was using four round (soft) rubber feet instead of mushrooms.

DSC06640a.jpg

Gilbert is going to need to buy mushrooms if he wants to use them. The rubber (motor belt, motor mounts, flywheel, toneram coupling and bedplate, etc.) did not seem to deteriorate over time. All are in excellent conditon.

Kudret

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What type of changes, modification or enhancements did they do between the different series? I believe there are 3 types, or series as SME describes it.

Allan, I sent you an email to your office address,...did you get it? Let me know, thanks.

Gilbert,

MHO is very dated, but so are many things discussed in cartridges and tt's. When I played "records", I used top of the line Sure and Ortofons. .....Until I discovered B&O. Where most were beryllium cantilevers with a hole drilled and a sapphire secured through the penetration, the B&O cantilever was also a sapphire. Very ridged. Difficult to mount in the old Empire, but worth it.

tc

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Allan, where can I buy OEM or as good or better than OEM mushrooms and Motor mounts.

What about drive belts? Even if the table doesn't need one, I guess it would be okay to go ahead and bet a spare...provided they store well. Let me know ....danki

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Allan, where can I buy OEM or as good or better than OEM mushrooms and Motor mounts.

What about drive belts? Even if the table doesn't need one, I guess it would be okay to go ahead and bet a spare...provided they store well. Let me know ....danki

I bought all of my stuff from Schopper in Germany. They now have a North American distributor--I don't know if that means you can't buy direct any more or not.

http://www.brinkmann-usa.com/schopper.php

You need the new mushrooms and motor grommets for sure--I thought mine were "just fine" until I replaced them!!! And go ahead and get a new drive belt too. If the idler wheel is still crack free and not as hard as rock, you probably don't need a new one.

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