Jump to content

Censcala project underway...


chops

Recommended Posts

Charles,

Your depth for volume calculations is the midpoint of the slanted board. The angle doesn't matter. The triangle lost is equal to the triangle gained.

In other words, if you know the rectangular box dimensions, just tilt the board to the angle you want, the midpoint as the pivot point.

My vote is for no. 3, although I like all three.

Armando

post-14184-13819295589156_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Well, I think the slanted motorboard idea is out. The guy I spoke to about helping me build this took one look at that and tried to aviod it all cost. Not to mention that he didn't seem too interested in helping with any of the designs.

I might just have to try and find an empty Cornwall cabinet and make a new motorboard for it to accommodate the new driver layout and squawker horn, which means I'd also have to leave the port off to one side.

Man, this sucks. Does anyone have an old CW cabinet laying around that they don't want anymore?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, I wish you could build the slanted one. I was looking forward to seeing that one "in the flesh" so to speak. I would wager that if you don't build that one, someone else may take your idea and run with it.

Bob Crites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, I wish you could build the slanted one. I was looking forward to seeing that one "in the flesh" so to speak. I would wager that if you don't build that one, someone else may take your idea and run with it.

Bob Crites

Bob,

I really wish I could too. Have any suggestions?

Unfortunately, I don't know anyone else who's a wood worker/cabinet builder. It would cost an arm and a leg to actually have someone do it for me, and those guys at the lumber stores just rip the cuts real fast on those circular saws and the cuts are nowhere near being accurate.

And I don't know if any of the forum members close by that could/would have the ability to do it for me, plus I don't like asking for favors like this anyway.

Hmm... what to do, what to do...

Charles T

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, I wish you could build the slanted one. I was

looking forward to seeing that one "in the flesh" so to speak. I would

wager that if you don't build that one, someone else may take your idea

and run with it.

Bob Crites

I've got a slanted centre unit planned (like mentioned.... it's

similar, yet different) ... so it'll eventually get built.

The carpentry isn't that difficult... and could be done with pretty

simple tools. It's nothing like building a Khorn or even a

LaScala.... but unfortunately I'm a little too far to help you

out on it....

Ì say you need a different cabinet shop...

ROb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Charles,

I'd be happy to cut that angle front cabinet deal for you. If you can get close on the dimensions we can noodle it out right here on the forum. It just doesn't look that hard to me. once we figure the angle of the front panel it's just saw cuts. there's plenty of guys here that help calc the volume/angle/LxWxH stuff. You cover costs on the plywood, I'll cut the panels and miter the front edges of the top and bottom to match. I can ship the thing to you as a flat pack, you glue-n-screw. I can do the router thing on the front panel too. just figure the hole sizes and locations for the horns/drivers you're using.

Let me know if you're interested. I can have it done in a day or two once the deal gets moving

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Charles,

I'd be happy to cut that angle front cabinet deal for you. If you can get close on the dimensions we can noodle it out right here on the forum. It just doesn't look that hard to me. once we figure the angle of the front panel it's just saw cuts. there's plenty of guys here that help calc the volume/angle/LxWxH stuff. You cover costs on the plywood, I'll cut the panels and miter the front edges of the top and bottom to match. I can ship the thing to you as a flat pack, you glue-n-screw. I can do the router thing on the front panel too. just figure the hole sizes and locations for the horns/drivers you're using.

Let me know if you're interested. I can have it done in a day or two once the deal gets moving

Hi Tom,

That sounds like an extremely excellent idea and a very generous offer!

I think I'd have to try and recrute Bob and jwcullison for the presice measurements just to be on the safe side. I'd hate to goof up one of the measurements and have the whole thing off or something.

My original design goal for this project was to have the same exact build type and quality of the '79 Cornwall. I would want the rear panel removable to gain access inside. The drivers would all be mounted from the rear of the motorboard, and the inside/outside dimentions of the cabinet would be equal to that of the Cornwall. The ONLY difference really would be the angled motorboard and the new placement of the drivers and port. I would also want to have the same designed riser (which I believe is 2" tall) included in the build. Probably later on, I'd also make a matching grill as well.

IOW, I'd planned on having it look pretty much like the # 3 scetch I made.

Thanks Tom again for this wonderful offer of yours. I certainly hope we can do this little project together. I would be extremely greatfull!

Charles T

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chops. I can figure out for you what you need but what I would need from you is the exact angle you want that motorboard. I can figure out the rest and post it here.

You will need to sit in that cheap Futon, drink a Bud, and imagine what angle you need to have the drivers coming right at your face. Keep in mind that you want that riser there.

Mounting the way you described shouldn't be a problem. I will need to think on the port. You do want a shelf port....right? If so, do you want it to be EXACTLY like the cornwall? If so, your total external width of the cabinet will be 25 1/4 inches.

jc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While your thinking of the angle, I'll tool around with the driver arrangement and port. The width will have to be more than 25 1/4 because you want a 15 inch driver and bob's 18 inch horn side by side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chops. I can figure out for you what you need but what I would need from you is the exact angle you want that motorboard. I can figure out the rest and post it here.

You will need to sit in that cheap Futon, drink a Bud, and imagine what angle you need to have the drivers coming right at your face. Keep in mind that you want that riser there.

Mounting the way you described shouldn't be a problem. I will need to think on the port. You do want a shelf port....right? If so, do you want it to be EXACTLY like the cornwall? If so, your total external width of the cabinet will be 25 1/4 inches.

jc

Hi jc!

I think I have it figured out that the bottom of the motorboard would have to be 2.75" further out than the top. I used the CW grill and my bro jt1stcav to help come up with that. I originally measured it at 3", but after taking into consideration that 2" riser, I'd probably be better off or safer with 2.75". I don't know what that comes out to in actual degree, probably somewhere between 8-12 degrees or something.

Since this cabinet is virtually a CW on its side, the "width" would be 35.75" (outside dimentions) and 25.25" (back side of cabinet) tall. If possible, I'm guessing the top of the cabinet would be 15.50" deep and the bottom would be 18.25" deep due to the angle.

Like in the # 3 sketch, I'd like everything to be centered in the middle of the motorboard. Yes, I'd want to shelf port, but also centered in the middle and tuned exactly like the CW. I guess for maximum motorboard stiffness, there should probably be at least a 2" gap between the driver openings.

Charles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jc,

I think he will want a width of 35 3/4 and a height of 25 1/4. Like a Cornwall lying on its side.

Bob

Hello Bob,

You have that exactly right. [;)]

Also, I guess you would be the best one to get the exact opening size dimentions for that Pyle squawker horn from.

As I said earlier, I want all the drivers mount from behind, so I would need that opening to be exactly the same as the opening of the horn, just like the way you have them mounted in your Cornscala IIs.

Thanks,

Charles

P.S. I'm having fun doing these measurements and "picturing" in my head how the finished product is going to look! LOL [:P]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chops,

The opening for the Pyle horn is 9 inches by 14 1/2 inches.

When spacing the drivers, don't forget to consider the wide lip on the Pyle horn and the overall frame diameter of the woofer.

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And, I am guessing that the shelf still needs to be 9 inches deep across the bottom of the 35 3/4 inch dimension and that the area of the port slots would still be about 50 sq. in. I think that shelf will need a center support.

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok...while you guys were chattin. I got it figured out for you.

I can't make the bottom just 2.75 longer because that will make a bad angle of 6.25 degrees for beveling and I don't think Tom would want that. Also, you need to account for the extra volume by making the bottom longer.

So here it is. This will be EXACTLY the internal volume of a Cornwall even including the fact you will be including Bob's horn.

The angle for beveling is 10 degrees here and Tom might be able to cut that for you. I will have to tell him how to cut the port too which won't be that big of a deal if he is up to it.

jc

post-16499-13819295621956_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bob,

Thanks for the horn dimensions. I guess I could have jsut measured that myself, but just to be on the safe side. [;)]

As for the port, I don't think I'd want it to span the entire width of the cabinet, just the same exact dimensions as what's in a standard CW and just centered in the middle of the motorboard. Pretty much just like the picture I drew, except a lot more centered than the way I drew it.

Maybe I'll whip up another quick sketch of a "straight-on" view of the motorboard.

Please hold... [:D]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is killing me. The schematic is done and I can't post it.

Just post it via using the "Options" button above while you're making a post. The button is above the "gray" section where it shows the previous post or quoted post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...