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powered subs have been a major pita! --one pilgrim's tale


jdm56

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Practically every powered sub I have owned has either failed or performed poorly or both. Consider:

RCA Pro SW-60 (8") A cheap baby sub from The Shack. Has been reliable and had acceptable audio performance considering the price paid ($80). BUT, about 10 minutes after it powers down, it will emit a series of 4-7 loud thunps. Usually scares the pee-waddin' out of me.

Klipsch GMX 2.1 system sub (6.5") Outstanding performance for the price and size, BUT there is a definite hum issue. Not too much of a prob the way I use it though.

Dell computer sub (3.5" --I think) An "upgrade" when we ordered our Dell E510 computer. Adds some bass to the anemic Dell speakers, but takes up too much room on the desk. I'd rather have a Klipsch Pro-Media Ultra 2.0 and forget the sub.

Infinity Alpha 1200s Nice sounding sub. BUT...poor power management set-up. Always coming on and off during listening sessions. Could not be set to just stay on. Unacceptable! Sold on ebay.

a/d/s/ HT12ps Gorgeous sub and a good value, BUT arrived defective. Level control was bad. Unacceptable. Returned.

Dayton Titanic 10" Good performance and solid build quality. Outstanding value, especially if you can snag them on sale for $288! I bought two. Now, one barely puts out any volume at all. Gonna have to return it for repair. Bummer!

Of course, nowadays a sub is practically mandatory, since full-range speakers with proper woofers are nearly extinct. Unless you've got big ol' Klipsch Heritage, or at my price level, maybe some Cerwin-Vegas. So, what's a poor audiophool to do? I know what I wish I'd done: keep a pair of Sony power amps I recently ebay'd, and pair them with a couple of SVS passive cylinders! I've had a cheap Radio Shack Optimus Pro-SW12 (passive 12") that I've never had any problem with. Of course, it is not really a quality piece of gear, but what can you expect for the price? Actually it sounds OK, it just doesn't get too loud. But it does mate well with mini-monitors, with it's built-in 250Hz hi-pass. I really wish there were more companies making quality passive subs and external amp/crossovers --at affordable prices.

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No offense intended but looking at your little list,these are almost all mediocre sub or ...bass modules! Save for the Dayton Titanic,this is a very average low cost sub at best and the Infinity,ok sub.

You should seriously consider at least a Klipsch Sub12,better yet a inexpensive HSU STF3(on sale now) or the NSD SVS subs. Each better than anything in your list,and each having way more output,the HSU and SVS demolish the Dayton.To bits

Bad luck is part of life,I had my share of lemons of late(two Sunfire subs among them).

You should consider an HSU STF3,for the price it is going a winner in any respect.The best afordable sub made(considering the special).

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Lol that is some bad luck! I have owned 3 different subwoofers (another one in the making) and never had a problem.....

it sound to me like someone needs to try DIY so you can make the sub as you see fit, design the enclosure for the response you want and choose your own finish.

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I, too, think you must be way overdriving your subs. Personally, I've got two drivers that I've used in both home and auto that I've pounded the ever-loving snot out of for almost 12 years...one did finally uncouple :) but the other is still going strong. Mind you, I never "over" drove them, I just took them to their audible limits. Never beyond.

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For what it's worth, none of my sub problems or failures has had anything to do with being over-driven. Also, I'm not really in the market for a sub right now. I'm just frustrated at all the grief I've had from the powered subs on my "little list", and thought I would share my experience. True, most of them are pretty low-end, but I don't believe that is an excuse for the particular problems I've had.

I sent the amp from one of my Dayton Titanic III's back to Parts Express yesterday. It is still in warranty, so hopefully it will be taken care of.

I guess my point, if I had one, was just that from my experience, powered subs, as a product category, may not be the most reliable products on the market. And that there is something to be said for going passive with external electronics.

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Vibrations are parasitic to amps,that is a given,but to0 say they will DESTROY is a bit too strong. The ideal sub would have electronics away,like the Klipsch THX subs. The best solution

Lesser amps will fail faster,quality amps will work many many years...look at my original Sunfire Mark II,still kicking and these subs ....a huge magnet resides net to the electronics and...vibration and changing pressure is always an issue. Seems quality resists better [:o]

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Actually, if you read some of Brian Cheney's articles on the VMPS website, when discussing subs, he states that they make theirs passive because the vibrations will destroy the amp. I think that's bull but here's th IP

http://www.vmpsaudio.com/subwoofers.htm

third paragraph

Well, it seems obvious even to a dolt like me that placing electronic components inside a subwoofer enclosure is going to test the build quality of those components. It just makes common sense that getting the delicate bits out of such an unfriendly environment would be a good thing. But of course, it's convenient/cheaper/easier to put them there, so the bottom line trumps ultimate quality again, as usual.

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The cost of the product is irrelavent. The fact remains that it is cheaper, easier and more convenient to build the electronics into the sub than to have a separate amp and/or crossover. I'm not saying powered subs can't be of very high quality.

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update:

Defective plate amp from one of my Dayton Titanic III 10" subs was promptly repaired and returned by Parts Express. I give them points for speed and communication. Plus, they did fix it free under warranty. But I have to take away points because the amp was sent to them in original packaging which included a heavy plastic bag, but was returned w/o the bag and was covered in dust. Also, the amp had been dropped, chipping and bending one corner of the heat sink fins. [:@] BUT...it does at least work. And apparently it had not been working for a while because I now have LOTS more bass. I had to set back the level on the receiver sub output by 6dB! So overall, I give PE a C for service. But for $288 each, delivered, I give the Dayton Titanic III 10"er an A for value. They go real deep for a box only about 14" per side. And loud enough for me, at least with two in a medium sized room. Show me another 10", 250W, 60+ pound sub for $288! I just hope they will both hold up now.

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I know of a better 10" that is maybe that price if you get lucky...

http://www.earthquakesound.com/supernova_mkiv.htm

Granted,
I had to get mine off Ebay and it was still $374.99 but it was brand
new...and comparable to the regular price of the titanic. Also, though
im not sure of this, but the HSU STF-2 may certainly give the Titanic a
run for its money, if not surpass it
(http://www.hsustore.com/stf2.html).

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