Raptor22 Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 I am going to ask this even if I get flak for a seemingly obvious question but maybe it's better to ask the 'been there done that' folks so I know for sure the first time. I have virgin Chorus IIs and Quartets that I am installing a set of Bob's caps in and I just wanted to know if the access is thru the passive radiator (chorus) /woofer alone, more dis-assembly required or thru another method all together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 I don't know the answer but i just wanted to introduce myself. I live in Carrollton, GA. I must just be a 30" drive from you. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor22 Posted February 16, 2007 Author Share Posted February 16, 2007 Glad to meet you, come on by. Live in Dallas, work in Marietta. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 Based on photos posted: The crossover is mounted on the inside of the assembly or "cup" which we see as the structure which holds the input terminals . So just take that off and you'll see the crossover. I've only taken apart the tweeter. Of course, good practice is to make note of what wires feeding the drivers connect where to the crossover. A digital camera helps. A tab of masking tape with notations written thereon can help too. When I took out the tweeter, I found the front board was particle board. The "threads" were fragile. So I put on some superglue on the threads to harden them up before re mounting. Your back panel may be real plywood ???. There may be a gasket. I dunno. Sometimes I'm so enthusiatic about getting things back together that I find spare parts on the floor. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 yes, do PRECISELY what Gil mentions. Diagram, mark with tape, photograph. sometimes the tolerance between the drivers and the opening is very tight, but a gently prying on the edge or thump from behind will generally loosen them. To my knowledge, there was never any liquid sealant used, but the foam or rubber gaskets gain quite a hold over time. another way to tighten screw holes in any wood is to insert a toothpick or two, then snap off at the edge, the extra material will allow the screw to 'grab'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor22 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 Thanks for the pointers. Now, one more if you please. Perhaps too many adult beverages tonight but I can't seem to find the photos referenced. Could I bother you for a link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSport Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Raptor, Please let me know how these work out...I have been meaning to open my Quartets up and upgrade the crossovers as well as getting them off of the terminal cups they reside on...I would love to hear an assessment of the difference in sounds...I owe Bob Crites some pics but as I say, been busy and haven't gotten back around to it...I don't see the pics Gil mentioned either...perhaps in the archives??? Thanks and good luck, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor22 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 I accessed the quartet by removing the speaker terminal cup. There are three screws holding the crossover pc board to the assy. The one under the transformer is not removable by screwdriver, I used a pair of angled needle nose pliers. Bob, the kit I received from you has a 50 cap whereas the factory cap is rated at 80. need clarification prior to unsoldering. Disassembly photos available but gotta fiqure out how to post. Edit: testing attachment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 My schematic looks like 50 for that cap, but sure could be 80. Yours is the first I have made up a kit for. I would not worry about that woofer roll off cap. It is probably good enough for what it does to just leave it in place. The other caps are the ones that really effect the sound. Hope those values were right at least. Bob Crites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I accessed the quartet by removing the speaker terminal cup. There are three screws holding the crossover pc board to the assy. The one under the transformer is not removable by screwdriver, I used a pair of angled needle nose pliers. Bob, the kit I received from you has a 50 cap whereas the factory cap is rated at 80. need clarification prior to unsoldering. Disassembly photos available but gotta fiqure out how to post. Edit: testing attachment KILLER photo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor22 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 Thanks Bob, I'll go ahead with the surgery. The 2s and 1 match up. Her's a shot of the terminal cup removed and the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 This would be a good chance to clean up the schematic for that Quartet crossover since you have one out. Can you read what the value is for the circled tweeter inductor? Bob Crites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor22 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 This would be a good chance to clean up the schematic for that Quartet crossover since you have one out. Can you read what the value is for the circled tweeter inductor? Bob Crites No problem Bob, I just put it back together for the Daytona 500 as I wasn't prepared for your quick response. I'll get that info for you. Anyone needing photos/info on the Chorus IIs or Quartets let me know and I'll get them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhendrix Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 The tweeter inductors on my Quartets are unlabeled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 What the tweeter inductor on the drawing above looks like to me is .18 mH. I think it perhaps is really .16 mH. The font used on that schematic is pretty strange. The 80 uF woofer cap looked like 50 uF to me. I have already edited it to show the 80 uF for the woofer cap. Just wanted to see if we could also verify the tweeter inductor. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Raptor 22, I'm sorry I was not more clear about my mention of photos posted. No, you didn't miss anything. I meant to say that my statements are based upon the several photos which have been posted in the past by good fellows showing their work on crossovers. Though I've seen a few mods in person. I was covering my butt a bit in that I'm becoming careful when giving advice; as anyone should. It is one thing if a guy had actually done it; another if they've seen pictures; and then some will give advice without either. Unfortunately, we on the forum don't have an organized library of instructional photos or articles. OTOH, there are good people who will step up and speak from first hand experience. Best, Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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