Mike Lindsey Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 My La Scala's are not backed all the way into the corner so I would think these will not protrude as much into the room if backed into the corner. I'll want a little wiggle room so that I can angle them at the sweet spot. I will need width, but also depth, because the front of the speaker will be further along the back wall than the rear of the speaker. Don't forget, this has to clear a wall unit that is 18" deep. It may be fine along the backwall, but the front of the speaker may not clear the wall unit. So what I need to know is how much wall space along the back wall is needed also taking into account the front of the speaker (right corner) so it clears the wall unit. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Something to bear in mind... the top end of these things are a lot more forgiving than Khorns/LaScalas. The sweet spot when I had my Khorns resided right in the middle of the room where a table sits (and wife was NOT going to let me move it). With the (in my case) K402, I can sit just about anywhere in the room and hear everything. the biggest reason I don't have mine shoved all the way into a corner is the silly power cord issue. Roy said you could pull them out something like 10" from the side walls and either not lose "anything" or "anything significiant" (I forget which). Big point I'm trying to muddle through is with my Khorns & LaScalas, the HF is more like a laser and with the K-402 it's more like a floodlight covering the entire room. You might not "have" to angle them. Cool thing is, you can if you want (unlike Khorns) and not lose anything in the bass department. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Good to know... appreciate that. OK... look forward to the measurements when you have them. If these look like they might fit I'm sure we will be talking alot more about them. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Good to know... appreciate that. OK... look forward to the measurements when you have them. If these look like they might fit I'm sure we will be talking alot more about them. Mike I've got a sawzall, right angle drills, compressor, nailguns, levels, T-squares, circular saws and of course, bottles of glue. We can MAKE them fit for you!! [6] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Ok Mike... I got some pictures that I think will help. The short answer is, if you have them snug into the corner, the Jubilees will own the first 36" from the corner. The pictures will show you that they really take up less than 36" and i want you to take note that my baseboard kept me from pushing it back even more (probably an inch after baseboard and shoe molding) here is a pic of the LEFT side of the left speaker against the left wall so you can see the gap that was there before I took another shot. Clearly if the floor allowed, the speaker COULD snug in tighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Here's the tape measure. I tried to take it as perpendicular to the wall as I could but I think there's enough fudge room there to simply say, keep the first 36" free and you are good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Next I slid the tape UNDER the base of the K-402 and slid it to the back corner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 And when the tape came out the front side, I took another picture shooting straight down. So, for fast 'easy' numbers, you need 3' on each wall and 3' from corner straight into room (I like to round up) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Since you have the camera out, it there any way to get a good shot of the top behind the horn. I'm looking for a good spot for the network. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Thanks for the pics. Richard. Unfortunately, it looks like I only have 33" of wall space along the back wall on each side of the wall units. Just like Deans Khorns these might not work for me. [:'(] Will there be a pair at Indy this year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 So what I need to know is how much wall space along the back wall is needed also taking into account the front of the speaker (right corner) so it clears the wall unit. Don't know if this will answer or not. I took the last shot with tape against the window, which is NOT in the same plane as the wall. The window is actually a bit further away than the wall. My hope is this will be close enough to answer your questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Since you have the camera out, it there any way to get a good shot of the top behind the horn. I'm looking for a good spot for the network. lol any more requests? (I've got a dynamite pair of legs...[bs]) Dean, I thought this might help just as well as anything since you can see the dustlines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Damn, look at all that dirt -- you live out in the country or something. I appreciate that Richard, very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Not much room really. What's that plate look like that the bracket and horn are attached too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Dean, I don't know if this one will help either... you MIGHT be able to put them on top of the K402 tray itself (under horn, above platform) I don't have a good picture of that but here's this shot. It would be a real bummer if you got everything put together only to find out the passives had no where to sit and you had to then fork out for actives!! not much of a used market for these passives huh?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 here's a side shot... maybe it'll fit between there? Caution: When you get yours, you will notice some bolts with them. These bolts screw into the TOP of the Jub bassbin and go through the slots you see on the 402 tray. That is so you can aim it and lock it down. I don't have my screws in but if YOU use them, then they will be little bumps on this otherwise flat piece of wood. Just a 'heads up' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Does that mean you have a few screws loose, Coytee? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rigma Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Dean, What I am doing is taking the horn off the plate and mounting the brackets directly to the bass bins. The only thing you would loose is being able to rotate the horn to aim but you would still have the vertical adjustment. That will give you more flat surface and reduce overall height by 3/4" and I think it will also look better. Hear that poo poo? Rigma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Yeah, helps a lot. What I'm trying to figure out is if a network can be slid between the bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Dean, that bracket is 8 1/4" wide (that's a fairly hard dimension, so I'd use 8") So, if you kept your outer dimensions 8 1/4 wide by 16" by about 7" (approx height 16" in from end where it will hit horn) you can make it work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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