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bi amping cornwall speakers


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I have a 24db/octave electronic crossover and want to bi amp my Cornwalls with an HK Citation II for the squawker and tweeter and an Audio Research D-120 for the woofers. Any tips on bi amping? What have others done in this situation?

Thanks,

Jim

Why? What are the reasons for bi-amping?

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Duke,

You have confused me.

I assume the crossover would be before the amps. What is the advantage of the amp "seeing" the woofer in series with an inductor? I could imagine leaving a capacitor in series with the high frequency (mid & tweeter) as a way of blocking DC thumps.

-Tom

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I confused myself today, too Tom ...

glad you could join me ....[:)]

It is posible that it has to do with the weather. In Southern New England we are starting to get our first real humidity. Like an idiot I was out in the thick of it with the weed wacker. I suspect the hot & humid weather extends to your neck of the woods also.

-Tom

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glad to hear that virginia isnt the only place thats been just about dripping. went out on the golf course and although the temp never got above 85 the air was so thick there was literally only about 3 miles visibility. looked almost like fog. thanks goodness it want any hotter!

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I understand what bi amping is using an electronic crossover. The crossover I have is 24 db/octave. I have cornwall II's from 1985. What I am curious about is if any others have done this and if they had found many advantages in doing so. I am not sure which model crossover was used in the Cornwalls I have. What I would like to do is have the HK Citation tube sound on the mid and high and the SS sound for the low end, that's all. Just asking for opinions from others who may have done something similar or to be told not to mess with it at all.

Thanks,

Jim

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"What I would like to do is have the HK Citation tube sound on the mid and high and the SS sound for the low end, that's all. "

A lot of folks run bi-amp arrangements with tube on the HF section and SS on the LF section. Since you have the gear....it is certainly understandable that you would want to try it to eval.

The easy approach that will stll offer driver protection, and easy to back out of is

a. The K-33 woofers are connected to the internal crossovers via a wire that is soldered on one end to the k-33, and screwed on the other end to the crossover. unscrew the wires from the crossover that go to the woofers and mount them to a new connection point on the back panel. Note the color coding to demote positve and negative.

b. Connect your electronic xover and run your amps as you indicate you know how to do. Set the xover point at 600hz to start.

c. connect the tube amp speaker output to the normal connection point on the cornwalls.

d. connect the SS amp to the additional terminal connections you added that run to the woofers.

That will provide tube on the HF section, SS on the LF section, xover at 600hz, and driver protection for you mids and highs, and be easy to restore if you wanted.

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Jim,

One thing I will have to say hear is with a Citation II amplifier I have no idea why you would bother. If working properly it should have all the power you need driving it full range. I could not think of a less optimal tube amplifier to run the mids and tweeters alone. The Citation II has never been known for its delicacy in the mids and highs. Very much a rock and roll slam amplifier in the tube world IMHO.

Craig

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So, how do you actively biamp a three-way speaker? Seems to me you can passively biamp or actively triamp (expensive and complex). I think horizontal biamping with the passives is a waste, though vertical biamping might have some merit. If there is a way to actively biamp a three-way, then I apologize in advance for my ignorance.

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DeanG

The goal was to put the mid and tweeter on one amp, and the woofer on the other.

Reasources available are the 2 amps, and the active xover.

In the requestors senerio, which is a popular one, The HF section would have a passive requirement saisfied using the existing xovers to split the k-55 and the k-77.

The useful feature of the passives is the driver protection they offer.

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Jim,

I am curious how this works out for you. Speakerfritz nicely outlined the procedure, but one problem you will eventually run into regards a "master volume control". Ultimately, you need four channels of control (additionally the amps may have different gains). Most pre-amps will not do this and a passive "pre-amp" has some special issues (sufficient gain in the circuit, relative impedance of the various components etc). If it comes to finding a 4 channel pot, (or stepped attenuator, or transformer), these can be hard to find and expensive. What are your thoughts?

Good Luck,

-Tom

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