Jubilee woofer question.

[longdrive03]

Can a K-1036-E 10" woofer be used in the Jubilee in place of the K-31-E with some modification of the cabinet? Thanks.

[colterphoto1]

Only if you have the knowledge, experience, and test facilities as a Klipsch engineer[]

[jwc]

If you would choose to do that or try it....you would need to make a pair of motorboards.

You would need to use 4 holes in the motorboard (motorboard size about 12 3/4 X 12 3/4) that would line of with the 4 holes used for the 12" driver. The 10" driver mounted to the motorboard.

The slot on the motorboard could be about 5" wide like the cabinet's slot....but the height of the slot would need to be about 7" probably. The jubilee cabinet slot is around 9" tall. It is probably tapered too.

Now this will get your woofers installed w/o modification to the jubilee. For optimal performance...the inner chamber volume may need be reduced but you would need to know T/S and you need to do some testing.....gettin complicated.

jc

[PrestonTom]

The first item is look at the copy of the Delgado & Klipsch article in JAES (this has been previously posted).

The required T/S parameters are listed in the article. Then you need to know the corresponding T/S parameters for the driver in question. This is a must and I suspect it is hard to come by the T/S parameters for the driver, although you might be able to measure some of them yourself.

IF you are changing to 10 in drivers in order to extend the high frequency response, then there are two further problems. The folding (geometry) of the cabinet will act as a low pass filter and the bifurcated design of the cabinet will create interference problems (since the two sides will "act" as two sources and create a lobing problems). This is a real roadblock and not easily modified.

IF you are concerned about the availability of the proper drivers (the K31s), there may a substitute made by Pioneer (these have the proper T/S numbers) that are only about $50-60 apiece. Check the threads by JWCULLISON. He was actually able to make some of the appropriate response measures using the various drivers. It is a long thread, but well-worth the effort. There is an alternative by Gil (the CAVES thread) where he created a similar cabinet using 15" drivers. Again this is long thread but well-worth the effort and it has a very creative and amusing format (and points to a great deal of technical info).

Good Luck (and what exactly are you up to?),

-Tom

[WMcD]

Thanks for the kind nod, Tom.

My advice to any novice to building anything is to start with a proven design. There are two reasons: 1) someone in the know has created it initially, and 2) others have made homebrew versions and so you can compare notes with other homebrewers.

The Jubilee article has the cite to Don Keele's article on use of driver T-S parameters and that is on Don Keele's website. You can Google there in any case.

I'll point out that the Jubilee type bass horn is far easier to cut pieces for than a K-Horn type. Nonetheless it is a major investment in time and plywood. Those translate to money in one way or the other.

There may be a temptation to say, "I'm going to modify the bass horn design to accomodate the drivers I have on hand and thereby save a few bucks. But I'm quite sure the extra time for modification would be better spent finding a part-time job flipping burgers at minimum wage to pay for the suggested drivers.

As Tom asked: What are you up to? We'd all like to know. Keep us informed.

Best,

Gil

[DrWho]

Is the goal to use drivers that you happen to have on-hand?

Ultimately, you're not guaranteed that they will yield a workable frequency response. Also, by moving to a smaller radiating surface area, you are pretty much guaranteed to increase distortion.

You could probably find a horn that will work for those drivers, but I wouldn't expect the Jubilee to be a perfect match. Really the only way to know would be to play around with the T/S parameters.