Tom Adams Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Subs for HT rooms, subs for 2-channel rigs, subs for this, subs for that, blah, blah, blah.......Well, here's something for y'all to chew on and give me some direction/advice. I've got this detached garage/workshop/man-cave project going on and in it will be a pair of Heresy's that were in the HT room of my last house. Now, this "garage" is 20x24 with 9' ceilings so the chances of those Heresys creating anything close to bass is slim to none. Therefore, I'd like to build a sub to rock my garage. My needs are as follows: Solid bass with no boom and no real need for digging deep CHEAP!!! It doesn't have to win a beauty contest CHEAP!!! Where to put the thing for it can't be on the floor Did I mention CHEAP??? Any and all notions accepted. No idea too crazy (hmmmm.....knowing the folks here, that might not be such a good idea). Thanks! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 cheap like willing to buy used parts or? give us a number wise please? you can get away with particle board or scrap wood around the house? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLSamuel Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Tom... think inexpensive, low cost, but not CHEAP. Some very expensive things can be made out of CHEAP components. FRUGAL is the approach to take. Hmmm... I'll have to pay attention to this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 Cheapest, best sounding, easy build, no floor space consumed,............drum roll................ IB. No contest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest srobak Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 get an old EV, CV, Peavy, or JBL loaded bass bin and fly it from (or mount it above) the rafters. Should cost less than 200 to 250. Done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEAR Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 A bass bin is the most effective way to have huge bass output on the cheap. Take a used EV or CV bass bins,they will deliver monster output to around 30Hz and fall fast from there on down. Clean,yes they are clean,those are HORNS in nature,and are VERY efficient,think 100-106dB efficient. One bassbin pounds the tarr out of the HSU MBM module, it is a 12" direct radiating VS a horn loaded 18"...no contest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 15, 2008 Moderators Share Posted March 15, 2008 How about some this size ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLSamuel Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 How about some this size ? Dtel. I see you've pimped out your Heresies. I thought you were just going to add the bass bins to augment the Heresies bass.... Do the MCM bins reach high enough. I'd think you need the Heresy bass driver in between? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 15, 2008 Moderators Share Posted March 15, 2008 I was just playing around, I ended up making a top like a split LaScala with a K401 and Bob's tweeters, AA crossover's and K43 bass. There not done yet, when they are I'll take some pic's. I call it a LaScala with a big butt. When I tried that for fun it was to much bass for the top end, I was suprised how high the MWM did go, more than just bass, I don't know what the crossover goes to on the original Heresy. "I'd think you need the Heresy bass driver in between?" If I would use it like that , that would definitely be better, your right. I hope I don't feel the same way when I finish with the other plan ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Cheapest, best sounding, easy build, no floor space consumed,............drum roll................ IB. No contest. I agree. Though if you can find wood for real cheap, then a sub-horn would be even cheaper and perform better too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndyKlipschFan Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 dtel.. Did you put the hersies on top to listen as well? hehehe That might have been interesting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 16, 2008 Moderators Share Posted March 16, 2008 dtel.. Did you put the hersies on top to listen as well? hehehe That might have been interesting? Yes, It sounded really good at low volume, but if you turned it up a little it was all bass, can't figure out why ! [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alliclaytor Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 I've got a TCSounds TC1000 driver in the garage sale forum. If you are handy and want a build challange it may very well suit your needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEAR Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Sub horn...sadly they are not too populat with home users for obscure reasons.Danley is the sole horn sub for home use I have seen. A single 12" driver...~400W amp and huge output. They are not easy to execute properly, and on the larger side. All else points in favor of these subs...save for the extension you get with a low tuned EBS(LLT) or sealed(and IB). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Adams Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 Ok, ok…...I get it. My original question/request was too obtuse. Let me try and narrow things down a bit. - Bass horn/cabinet thing is out of the question. - IB is out of the question. - I want to build my own ported box out of MDF. - I’d like to power the thing with either a new BASH type plate amp or maybe a used outboard amp. This is where the “cheap” factor comes in. - I would like to buy a 15” driver (new if possible, but would consider used if not pounded on like cubed steak), but I’d also consider a single or dual 12” driver if I can get almost the same output. Again, this is where the “cheap” comes into play. - It has to play well with my Heresy’s unlike that Gorilla thing dtel has going on. LOL…. - As for size, it can’t be a refrigerator for I’m thinking of mounting the thing on the rear wall up near the ceiling. So the thing can’t weigh more than the wife & I can lift. - Cost?? I’d like to stay between $350 and $500. Hope this gives you a better idea of where I’m trying to go. Oh – and I appreciate the responses and help. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEAR Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 CSS SDX15 driver sold for $250 , alot of quality and displacement for the price. Amp you need at least a BASH 500 (~$200),materials MDF and port should stay in the $60 range or less. You can get a Mach5Audio IXL15 $230, BASH 500 you save $20 on the driver. Less displacement. The CSS SDX15 has 30mm Xmax and an Xmech that is quite impressive. Tuning and box size can varry alot. You can tune it high ~25Hz in a smaller box or extend to an EBS(LLT) ina 13cu ft tuned @ 14Hz ! Works great in sealed ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Adams Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 Thanks TheEar. Those options look promising. And no offense to you, but I really thought that DrWho or Jay or the other bass heads here would've been jumping in on this thread helping me with my first DIY sub project. Guess nobody loves me anymore............. Oh well - I guess I can buy one of those Dayton Titanic sub kits or a Klipsch Sub-12. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Oh we love you Tom. Its just I am on spring vacation and I am half way around the world cause a family member is ill. The bash 500 watt plate amp that partsexpress sells sometimes goes on sale for 128 dollars every now and again. The other thing is right now is a bad time for DIY, its spring and warming. Also alot of subwoofer companies are out of business or defunct. And the Dayton Titanic or Klipsch Sub 12 give alot of bang for the buck without calibrating and recalibrating cause someone already did that for you. A viable option might be to buy pb12 svs subwoofer, the older model that many people have sold all over online and build one of similar size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEAR Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 The Dayton Titanic 3 is a good sub , good SQ and descent output. For a bit more you get a CSS SDX15 that will trounce the Titanic 3 15". 30mm Xmax VS 21mm for the Titanic 3. That is not all the Xmech on the Titanic 3 is too close to the Xmax for comfort,the SDX15 leaves you a buffer zone for the nasty peaks. Depending on type of subs(sealed or vented) and amp used the extra Xmax may not be a big factor.However it is always good to have extra Xmax and Xmech. Never hurt anybody. [] For me the choices are clear, not even open for debate. But as always go with what you feel is good for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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