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DIY Sub info


wsu99999

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I recently sold my SUB-12 and I'm interested in building my own subwoofer. I would like to spend under a grand and wanted some advice. I've looked at parts express and wanted to know everyone's thoughts about a route I should take. Should I pick up one of their DIY kits like the Dayton T1503K 15" Titanic Mk III Subwoofer Kit - it's like 700 bucks and has a 1000w amp w/ a 15 inch sub. Would something like this blow away the sub12? Could I do better for under a grand? Is there a speaker manufacturer out there that has a better sub for under a grand? Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks!!

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Thanks for the support Brac. I think subwoofers are one of the most diffucult peices of home theater. Maybe I should add my current setup before people would begin helping -

I'm running 2x 1976 (ish) LaScala's with 2 1990's Forte II's as my surrounds. I just sold my center and will be purchasing a new one shortly. I'm already aware of the center I'm going to get, but just need a subwoofer that will work well with the LaScalas.

To further elaborate... I have read a lot on the forum, and it seems to be a general opinion that subwoofers from manufacturers are overpriced (or that you could build a DIY for cheaper and better). Maybe in my range I'm wrong - I just don't know. What I do know is the SUB-12 didn't cut it for what I'm looking for. My main's would completely drown it out. I need MORE!!! What's out there that I can build - specifically - I'm really interested in kits so I don't have to build the box. If the boxes really suck please let me know!! If there is a better place to go for this stuff, please direct me as well.

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In responce to CECAA850's first remark - I don't care if I build it or buy it already built. I just want the best I can get for under a grand. If it happens to be the ED sub you recomended then great - If I can build the same sub for less, even better. If there is something I can build that will blow it away for a little more, even better. I really just want the best sub I can get within my budget limitations. Any more suggestions?

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The Titanic III in a sealed cabinet,with the very ordinary 1KW Dayton plate amp with best a Sub 12 with little trouble.

But you can do alot better under a grand, take two CSS SDX15's (~$500 for two),get a EP2500 power amp (~$300) and the eD sub PEQ ($100) plus ~100 for the MDF. You can build two compact sealed subs ~4cu ft per driver that will leave the Dayton in the proverbial dust. You will have extansion,sound quality and plenty of output.

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Ear,

If this is what you would personally do, then I will do it. I know you are an expert in this arena and your comments are appreciated. If the package you stated above is the best you can think of, let me know and i will order the parts. Do you have any recomendations on box design? Is this setup the best fit for LaScalas?

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wsu,

Yes dual CSS SDX15's with a EP2500 and eD sub PEQ are what I would take and be happy,matched with very capable speakers. One thing,you must build very inert boxes for them,I would go with a 4.5cu ft box per SDX15.

Cabinets you can use MDF or better Baltic birch,even regular quality Columbia birch will do. The front baffle has to be doubled and braces should be dispoed each 8-10 inches.For wiring 12G thick cable or better a 10G should be used.

Quality birch ,you do not have to paint,bare MDF looks like complete crap so finishing is a must(less sub be hidden behind a screen in a HT room).

I use Dayton's alu plates with the premium binding posts,you can do as well by using the so called Supreme conector plate ~$11 at PE.

The box has to be sealed air tight,also.Sealed subs such as these should be placed close to walls for extra reinforcement(extra room gain).

PS I will be building the EXACT same subs neext week,Each SDX15 in its 4.5cu ft cabinet. Birch used for cabinet material,I will post pics.

Here is how the birch cabinets look,....

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The SDX15's...real heavyweighs of build quality and price performance!

Posted Image Posted Image

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Ear -

Is there anywhere that I could buy these boxes prebuilt to spec? I can certinally build them myself, but wouldn't mind paying a bit extra for them pre-built AND quality. I don't want to buy a cookie cutter box that is poorly made. If I buy the box already built, it will save me a weekend. Do you know of anywhere that would have these prebuilt, quality, AND the proper specs?

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Ear -

Is there anywhere that I could buy these boxes prebuilt to spec? I can certinally build them myself, but wouldn't mind paying a bit extra for them pre-built AND quality. I don't want to buy a cookie cutter box that is poorly made. If I buy the box already built, it will save me a weekend. Do you know of anywhere that would have these prebuilt, quality, AND the proper specs?

Well looks to me like you are in luck. You live near Seattle and there is a great cabinet builder in Halfmoon Bay BC Canada. His name is Nathan Funk and his company is FunkyWaves Audio (Just Google it). He can do whatever you want: PR's,ported,sealed,plate amps, whatever. He also does beautiful premium finishes. He just got done building a crazy subwoofer for me and he is also finishing up a dual SDX15 subwoofer for me that would be very similar to what you are talking about, 8cuft sealed. It is not the cheapest game in town, but the quality is top notch and he carries the SDX's, so it would be a turnkey solution. The subs would arrive mounted,wired up and finished, just add an amp,or have him put an LT1300 plate amp in too. You can see some of the work at the Home Theater Shack, or at the FunkyWaves site. I can post pics too. TheEar can also vouch. He's seen what they built for me.

If you want something cheaper Elemental Designs builds some solid cabinets too. They just don't have the finishing and attention to detail that Funkywaves has.

Both of these will be more expensive that building the cabs yourself, with Funkywaves the most expensive, but the best quality.

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Is there a specific model that Element Designs builds that would be a perfect fit for those subs? If so let me know so that I can go check it out. I honestly feel that the custom route would probably be out of my budget. I can do all the finish work myself, I would just like to find one prebuilt. Honestly, I would really like some in birch or something that could take a nice wood stain and poly on top. Similar to the pics shared above, but stained dark redwood.

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There isn't a specific ED model to fit SDX's. Check out their website. It has a custom enclosure page where you can fill out the required info and it will calculate out the cost for you right down to the shipping. It's kinda nifty. GL

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Cabinets are quite easy to make. That is if you have a few basic tools and the space to work.

This is one of two for my LMS-Ultra drivers...

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A router with a jig,cutting bit(1/2" not the 1/4" crap),eight clamps (36" or long enough to clamp the cabinet on its longest side),drill with quality bits,glue are pretty much what is needed.

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Cabinets are quite easy to make. That is if you have a few basic tools and the space to work.

That's what I thought when I started.... How hard could it be? It's just a box.... But after getting started it is not so easy, mind you I have zero wood working experience. I spend probably hours trying to get panels to line up and even still they are not 100%. The worst is when I tried laminating two pieces of MDF together, they all moved a bit, up to 1/16th of an inch in some spots, so now my box isn't air tights. I am hoping it will look fine after I trim the excess around the edges with a flush trim bit. Another think I messed up on is using screws... I was too cheap to get enough clamps, so I used screws and split a bunch of panels, and since mdf is so soft the threads inside are too chewed up to get the screws flush to the panels. Now I have to remove the screws and fill the holes anyway. But I definately learned a lot and will definately do this again even after all this work. I have lots of wood left over so I might build some bookshelfs for my computer.

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If you plan to use MDF for an enclosure, you need to understand a few things.... such as you found out, it does not accept screws well at all. Laminating to build up thicker panels... glue them first before cutting to size!!! Use a roller to apply the glue evenly and quickly. Put the other panel on top and clamp around the edges, and apply weight on top of the top panel. ( have to have it on a stable, flat surface first ) I have used buckets filled with water... you can use cement blocks, or whatever you have lying around.

Cutting panels oversize and trimming with a router is a good idea. There are flush trim bits with bearings that work great for that. Rounding over corners makes it a lot easier to finish, as well as keeping the edges from getting dented and flaking. Sand all the joints and apply a few coats of urethane with a foam roller.... use a foam brush to knock down the bubbles left from the roller.

Now after 2-3 coats, you can sand it flat and paint it.

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I just came across this website when looking for more info on the SDX15 drivers:
http://www.funkywaves.net/

It looks like they already do some custom enclosures for the driver. If you look in the catalog page they have one for $700 with three 4" ports, or they have another one with dual 18" passive radiators for $1300. I think the integrated amplifier they're selling adds onto the price, but they also mention contacting them for preorder prices so who knows what kind of deals you might be able to score. It looks like they do custom builds too if you wanna go a slightly different route than what they're advertising. Personally, I think the passive radiators will yield better bottom-end performance.

Also, check out the performance of a pair of these drivers in a normal sealed enclosure:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/subwoofer-tests/8159-diy-css-2xsdx15-sealed-140l-new.html

Great upper bass performance. Down low is lacking compared to other subs because it's a sealed enclosure so going with passive radiators would put you near the top of subs measured by Ilkka. (yikes). Ports might help out a bit too if you make sure they're not undersized. At the same time, don't make them too big or you'll put the port resonance into the passband of the driver (might wanna make sure its a good octave above the passband so that harmonic distortions don't trigger it either). Passive radiators avoid all those issues and allow you to go with a smaller enclosure (though of course it's more expensive). I'm not sure if a single driver with passive radiators is gonna be better than two actives with ports.

I dunno if there's any better deals in that price range right now, but it looks like a killer setup to me.

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