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  1. I've tried mine with 10" ports and a couple of other sizes and also sealed. They are in their stock configuration now where they have useable response to 30hz. Factory configured is probably the best way. If you want to try them out with different ports give it a shot. You may like it. By tuning lower with longer ports you lose some headroom in the upper bass range. If you don't use loud levels for listening this may be acceptable. I use subwoofers for evertything so it's not worthwhile to me to do this. YMMV.
  2. The 20-20khz spec often touted around as the limits of human hearing is an average. A ballpark figure nothing more. There are people that can hear well past 20khz and also below 20hz. Just as there are people who are over 8ft tall, can run over 25mph and others who can bench more than >500lbs. None of those things would be considered average, but it does not mean it doesn't happen. Also consider the fact that your hearing does not operate like a brick wall. It's more akin to the way a crossover works with a sloping off of the response to frequencies. It doesn't mean that you cannot hear 18khz necessarily, just that you are much less sensitive to it and need an increased level for it to be noticeable. The same happens at low freq's. I can personally hear down to about 15 or 16hz fairly easily provided that there is a decent level. Perception is another thing. You can percieve or experience very low powerful bass in a tactile sense even if it is below audibility. I'm not so sure about the upper registers with their tiny wavelengths, but I wouldn't be surprised.
  3. As far as I know all CF4's have neo motor woofers. The version 1's had a slightly deeper tune due to the 5" versus 2.5" ports and the drivers were a little bit higher MMS I believe. The crossover had some changes by version 3 too I believe, but I don't think any of it was major. I like my pair of version 3's and my later version 2's just fine as well and though I haven't spent extensive time listening to version 1's I doubt if there is a night and day difference in the sound, or much of one at all really other than at the bottom of the bass range. I'm sure others will disagree. Yours are a little confusing. The ports say that they would be version 3 but the serials say 1 or early 2. The better question is do you like the way that they sound? The version doen't really matter unless you plan to sell.
  4. Wow...It's been a long minute since I posted here at Klipsch.[:$] I'm one of the first 2 guys to get the DTS10 kit, along with Brandon. It's a really good deal. Very few people other than DIYers have probably heard real extension and headroom down into the 10hz range. It's very capable. It should be close to 2 DTS10's but with more extension. I'm using it with Klipsch CF-4's and it's a very nice match. Plenty of headroom all around. A bigger pro amp on the CF4's and a second DTS10 and I think that'd be good enough. Brandon, Getting some used Klipsch mains is a good idea if you don't end up doing a kit or something. Some big effecient floor standers are in order. Come to the darkside...
  5. Interesting thread. I've heard a LOT of subs and the F112 that I heard was fairly impressive because it sounded good and was tiny. Does it compare to something that is actually allowed to use some space and enclosure volume? No. Let's keep a little perspective here. The F113 was tested at 2 meters GP outdoors, NOT 1 meter and it's in a big parking lot with nothing within 10m. All tests done by Illka and AVtalk both are in this format. It pulled off about 110db or more clean from 30hz up (90% of music) and is a bit over 100db at 20hz before the compression starts hammering down in that scenario.This from a box of 19.25x19.25x 16.5. SMALL and it's not a resonant system. Put it in a room and it should be doing much better. Yes the THD skyrockets once it gets overdriven in the 16-25hz range. The amp is probably clipping all to hell at that point and the driver is getting into the 3" p2p range. Physics at work there. Totally expected. They are obviously shaping the response to get down that low flatly so the amp and driver face the biggest demands there and it shows.I would hope that the RT-12D can muster some more 18-20hz output than this tiny sealed box being it's a resonant system that I'm going to guess is tuned somewhere 16-20hz. I also assume that there is HPF in there too. I'm not saying either is better than the other. I don't own either. I don't happen to think that the F113 is the best thing since sliced bread, but I am impressed with what they get out of an enclosure that small. Without testing by an unbiased 3rd party (sorry Klipsch employees) of both the RT12D and the F113 most of this benchracing is speculation. Maybe you guys can get an RT12D sent to Illka or AvTalk. Actually screw the RT12, send the Palladium sub.
  6. Yeah , I just got a chance to model them in Winisd , and I like the SDX alot , the av-15 doesnt quite go deep enough for my taste looks like f3 is around 47hz , So what type of enclosure do you have your sdx's in? and how well do they do with movies? I have a pair in 8cu ft sealed. They do great for music and movies.
  7. +1 on the drivers that DrWho mentioned. I have SDX's and they sound very good and will really rock your music with appropriate power (which you have). I don't have direct experience with the AE's but they get a lot of praise, and the design is very nice. A pair of either will be several cuts above your 10" JL.
  8. I haven't heard those bad boys but i have heard various other Genelec's lower down the line. Good stuff. I've also spent quite a bit of time mixing on those M-Audio's last year and I'll be honest I like the Mackie HR824's and even Behringer's much better. The M Audio's just didn't seem as neutral to me. More like a normal Hifi kind of sound with a bit of extra warmth in the low mids and upper bass. I don't know, it could've been the guys set-up/ room though.
  9. take it for what it is, it will not be as accurate as a klippel Way to state the obvious. perhaps you have a Klippel lieing around he can use or expect the OP to pay the couple of hundred dollars it will cost to ship the driver and have it done? WFT3 is actually pretty accurate. The reason that I know this is because I've measured a lot of drivers with it. Some of the drivers come in very close to the mfg specs like TC sounds and Treo. This would indicate that it does work if you set it up to get a good measurement. Other drivers are significantly different than the provided info. It ain't deadly accurate but it's a lot better than going blind or relying on manufacturer's provided specs.
  10. Many guitar cabs are 5/8's particle board or a good plywood if you are lucky. The good ones will be 3/4" ply material and have some light bracing. Usually there is nothing more than a center pillar brace from front to back and that's about it. There is an emphasis on light weight and cheap production costs since they are packed around alot. Many also have little to no bracing in them. This isn't that big of a concern because guitar cabs aren't made or needed to be extremely accurate. You are going to try to get your own tone out of it anyway so they can have colorations and don't need a flat FR. You'll be adding distortion, effects, tone and EQ wildly all over the place, usually through a tube based amp, so out of the box accuracy doesn't matter as much as with a HiFi speaker. If I was DIYing a guitar cab it would be built significantly better than what you can buy, but also a lot heavier too.
  11. Looks like I missed it.[] It says that the free poster giveaway has been completed now. Dang it.
  12. 0-16 Good Lord that's bad.[+o(] The Rams should play the Chiefs to decide who gets to play the Lions in a loser takes all game called the Toilet Bowl. []
  13. In addition to what DrWho said ... Don't forget that the sensitivity measurement is usually in the midrange somewhere and that it is referenced to 1 meter from the speaker usually. Every time you double the distance from the speaker you generally lose 6db of SPL, so that if you sit 4 meters away which is not unusual you lose approximately 12db from that 102db sensitivity. Which puts you down in the 90db range. Still quite good when you consider that some inefficient bookshelf speakers will be as low as 74db at that point, but you can see where having a few extra watts for peaks is not a bad idea.
  14. +1 IMHO any change to the sound from a set properly functioning and utilized set of cables will be incredibly minuscule and virtually indetectable. This is not to say that a cable cannot change the sound drastically, but the ones that do are coloring the sound whether engineered to do this, or not. If that's your kind of thing feel free. You'll get much more controllable and drastic changes through messing with speaker placement, orientation, trying a good EQ unit, adding room treatments, etc.
  15. Thats where I was confused too. You know a lot more than I do about this stuff, but I thought that 54hz sounded too low and 100-110hz sounded more reasonable. So it seems to be the half wave that causes the null? That makes sense to me just visualizing things.I'll go back and look at some of my measurements. Recently I talked to Collo about box notes and the same thing is apparent in his program. Boxnotes would say that the primary resonance issue would be 54hz but when measured it would be twice that.
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