efzauner

No issues for active. Using passive crossovers might be an issue due to heating of components. Chris I agree on the active part... use an SPL meter to adjust sensitivities. But on the passive part, I suspect that speaker voicecoils would heat up far more than cross over coils causing dynamic compression if not x over point shifts. Going Active would not fix this completely, since you still have voice coil heating. Same voltage, higher resistance= less current and wattage. This is well documented for high power subs, but less so for mids and tweeters .

I don't see this as a problem for speaker wire. The main problem (from wiki if you want to read the details) was dissimilar coefficient of expansion in aluminum to steel connections as in junction boxes that caused creep and loosenes, arching and other issues. Copper to alu wire connections caused corrosion. For speakers, the copper cladding should fix this. If your speaker wires are heating up at the binding posts.. that is an entirely different issue! But not unheard of. I have seen poor quality plastic banana plugs and jacks melt in car audio subwoofers because of lousy electrical connection.

I don't see any fundamental issue with copper clad aluminium wire (but that aluminum whatchamacallit stiff is just wrong!) as long as we can determine the resistance per length. We are used to looking up AWG wire charts based on copper to get resistance and base the gauge required on this. The problem I see is that I have never seen a resistance spec for alu copper clad.. nor any info on how thick it is! What if we take a educated guess? Resistivity of copper is 1.7 Alu is 50% higher at 2.6, from WIKI I get a copper by volume of 10-15 %. Assuming the worst, if we use 10%, then the majority of the conductivity will be that of aluminum. So use an aluminum wire 2 gauges bigger to get the same resistance as copper. Fine is you can save lots of money. The bigger issue is having to use thicker aluminium wire. Try threading 10 gauge into a binding post! Just for pricing at mono price Copper Clad alum 14 gauge is $12 /100ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=14918 Pure copper 16 gauge is $20/100ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023903&p_id=2793&seq=1&format=2 So pick what you want...maybe compare 12 gauge CCA to 14 gauge pure OFC As for rg6 with center conductor of awg18 being 50mil, and skin depth at 100MHz of under 0.3 mil, the fact that it is copper clad steel is moot at RF frequencies.

wouldn't a simpler way be to put an analog HP filter in the mid/high amp signal input path and bi-amping the speakers thru the existing cross overs? Given that one of the main functions of going active is to prevent the heavy bass power needs from distorting the mids/hf. I know it does not remove the inductor in series with the woofer, thus may not do anything to improve damping. But the delicate phase and frequency response engineering that went into the crossover design would still be functional. Plus no chance of blowing the mid/tweets due to overload in case something sends full range to them. Has anyone gone this route?

Thank you, clarifies what you meant by 10Hz. was not trying to dispute that the JL is a great sub and you did an amazing job!

Thanks man Yes my screen would be the same white with the "silver" on top, that is what it is listed at but really it's a light grey. This stuff is Canada only (first time for everything) tested a bit better than the stuff from the US that was tested. Just a bit better for AT, not sure about picture. Canada only you say? well where did you buy the spandex? What brand? I gather from a fabric store? I am in montreal... thinking of doing the same. But why 2 layers? Or is the screen reversible? white on one side.. .grey on the other? Just puzzled if indeed it is 2 layers. Exaactly as MLO said it's for bleed through and since it's a stretched fabric the white behinde the grey (it's actually called silver) makes it a little brighter but still has far better blacks than a white top fabric. It's called Heavy Activewear Silver from Fabricland. http://fabricville.com/en/heavy-activewear-silver.html And the white is the same just white. lol For a 110" screen I bought 2.5 meters of each and has a bit left over, if you stretched it really nicely you might get by with 2 meters but it would be tight at 10" Lol yes but it's not your average sub and it's almost exact to what they use in there home line of Subs. The Fathom hase a little stronger motor and a bit more excurssion, other than that same dirver. And yes one of these destroys my old TC Sounds LMS 15" that was in a 4 cubic foot box. I have two 13W7's (other one is not veneered yet) each in 1.875 cubic foot sealed boxes, they extend fairly flat down to 10hz in room and they will take everything the Nu6000DSP can give which is 1800 watts per channel RMS . And behind the couch for nearfield I have a 12W7 run in a 1.375 cubic foot box, it will be run off a NU3000DSP 1800 watts RMS. It's running off one side of the Nu6000 right now since I only have the 2. Anyway yes they are fantasitc subs, very happy with the time and effort I put into em. Here is the the first sub measurement with REW no EQ etc, the dip at 60 is a room null where I had it placed. Don't pay attention to anything after 10hz, REW is not accurate past 10 as far as I have read. Yes that is a cool sub. I made a 4ft vented for an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12 inch. (I got a pair cheap) tuned to 20Hz. but man yours are tiny? Where they flat down to 10 Hz when simulated in something like WinISP? Or are you talking flat with room gain? (just as in car subs?) The Infinities where not good in a small sealed box. The reason I can use a tiny box is because they are desgined for a small box, your Infinity is just not on the same par just a budget sub but great for there price if you can afford the space they take. I had no desire to fill my room with huge boxes so I paid a little more for my subs and put 2000 watss RMS into each one in a 1.875 cft box and they can take it with no problem at all. Here is a picture of one of the 13W7's next to a pop can for size ref and a 8" driver out of a RF35. They weigh 54 LBS each so there built fairly well, made my TC sounds look small. lol Sure , the JL is among the best subs bar none on the market at any price.. But it still wont go "flat to 10Hz" in a sealed box. See the WinISD plots of the JL vs my infinity Perfect.. both in 1.75cuft box. Both almost on top of each other. Yes with twice the XMax and power handling, the JL will put out 6dB more. So how did you get "flat to 10" Hz? did you apply low frequency EQ with the Beringer DSP amp? Or are you implying room gain to get down to 10Hz?

Lol yes but it's not your average sub and it's almost exact to what they use in there home line of Subs. The Fathom hase a little stronger motor and a bit more excurssion, other than that same dirver. And yes one of these destroys my old TC Sounds LMS 15" that was in a 4 cubic foot box. I have two 13W7's (other one is not veneered yet) each in 1.875 cubic foot sealed boxes, they extend fairly flat down to 10hz in room and they will take everything the Nu6000DSP can give which is 1800 watts per channel RMS . And behind the couch for nearfield I have a 12W7 run in a 1.375 cubic foot box, it will be run off a NU3000DSP 1800 watts RMS. It's running off one side of the Nu6000 right now since I only have the 2. Anyway yes they are fantasitc subs, very happy with the time and effort I put into em. Here is the the first sub measurement with REW no EQ etc, the dip at 60 is a room null where I had it placed. Don't pay attention to anything after 10hz, REW is not accurate past 10 as far as I have read. Yes that is a cool sub. I made a 4ft vented for an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12 inch. (I got a pair cheap) tuned to 20Hz. but man yours are tiny? Where they flat down to 10 Hz when simulated in something like WinISP? Or are you talking flat with room gain? (just as in car subs?) The Infinities where not good in a small sealed box.

Thanks man Yes my screen would be the same white with the "silver" on top, that is what it is listed at but really it's a light grey. This stuff is Canada only (first time for everything) tested a bit better than the stuff from the US that was tested. Just a bit better for AT, not sure about picture. Canada only you say? well where did you buy the spandex? What brand? I gather from a fabric store? I am in montreal... thinking of doing the same. But why 2 layers? Or is the screen reversible? white on one side.. .grey on the other? Just puzzled if indeed it is 2 layers.

May I ask what brand and type? Is this fixed? I am interested in one also but I will also have a flatscreen TV so the AT screen has to be roll up or another form of storage.

Well, out with the Reference system and time to hit CL to complete a Legend series. NOOO! Me First....take a number... wait in line! There are not many to go around! I will be seeing a pair of KLF-20s tomorrow afternoon...hopefully the guy will sell.. have cash and wagon! OK Got my KLF-20s....with Crites Ti tweeter diaphragms on the side. You may go hunting now! Several KLF-30s on CL new England!

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-speakers/oakville-halton-region/klipsch-kg-5-5-kg-4-5-kv3-speakers/1142517353

Hey don't worry guys... I know there are no easy answers. It will be fun to try some different positions.

Well, out with the Reference system and time to hit CL to complete a Legend series. NOOO! Me First....take a number... wait in line! There are not many to go around! I will be seeing a pair of KLF-20s tomorrow afternoon...hopefully the guy will sell.. have cash and wagon!

No Soldering? Sad.... my son learned to solder at 6! . "Love the smell of Rosincore in the morning"

Great news I picked up 2 CF7s at a great price a couple of weeks ago... Seems this is the only Klipsch non heritage center that has 8 inch drivers! This is one huge center!

so you can do some trouble shooting by first switching the L and R rca inputs from whatever source you are using. Does the tweeter fault remain on the same speaker? if yes then the problem is between the RCA inputs and the tweeters. If it moves to the other speaker then the problem is before the RCA inputs, in other words your source. Then swap the speaker connections: Connect left speaker to right speaker output and vice versa. If the problem now changes side it is between your RCA inputs and the speaker output on your amp. IS there a Mono switch on the amp? if you put it in mono does the problem go away? if yes then the problem is between the RCA inputs and the mono switch. What about the tone controls? Can you defeat them? Maybe the problem is a bad component in the treble circuits? There are many ways you can try to trouble shoot to isolate the problem.

My feeble attempt at excel drawing! But you get the idea.

Gorgeous but you have 3 feet more height and 2 feet more side room. Imagine the walls touching the seats on either side and the back of the seat against the rear wall!

Thanks for the info... but I have no leeway on height... The R L surrounds and the 2 rears MUST be on the wall up against the soffits. So about 7ft high. For all purposes imagine a sectional sofa that is 12 feet wide with seating area against the walls on all 3 sides. Thus the surround speakers are right above the seating area. I don't have the option of placing at a distance... Will draw a figure later tonight. Pictures wont do, concrete and 2x4s only at this time. Center is KLF C7 Maybe 2! one below screen and one above screen. Mains either Tangent 400 or KLF-20 Surrounds.. none right now except for KG4 tweeters and Eminence Alpha 8s and generic crossovers that I can built into 4 wedge surrounds. This will be mainly for HT as I do not have much in terms of 5 channel music recordings. For music I will just go Stereo. I wont have room for any sort of Klipsch surround. Just too big. Will hit your head on them.

My HT room build is progressing. The main sitting area is 12 x 17ft and will have a sectional sofa filling the area. Above the area is a soffit all around. So the surround speakers will have to be mounted on the wall, up against the soffits. The plan is to make custom wedge surrounds and rears that aim diagonally down to the listeners. But for all seating positions, either the surrounds or the rears will be almost directly overhead. Question: Would single "point" source surrounds and rear be best or would an array of say 4 full range speakers spanning 4-6 feet long be best for a more dispersed sound? In addition. there is a 3 foot wide hallway along the long side, making the room actually 15x17. I don't want to mount a dipole under the soffit because it will be sticking down between the 12 foot wide section and the 3 foot wide hallway. Difficult to decide. thanks

I am afraid something was lost in the translation. ???? That's just my sarcastic sense of wit at work! Use grey grill cloth so nobody notices how big they really are!..as in "elephant in the room".. :-)

A bunch of junk with some golden nuggets including EV 1824 drivers and horns in Sherbrooke Quebec http://www.kijiji.ca/v-electronique/sherbrooke-qc/a-vendre-tout-le-kit-pas-separement-pas-negociable/1141570861 Fisher 180 http://www.kijiji.ca/v-electronique/sherbrooke-qc/amplificateur-fisher-180/1141722458 Tangent 500 near Toronto http://www.kijiji.ca/v-speakers/city-of-toronto/klipsch-tower-speaker/1141325471 Remember these are Canadian Dollars! 35% discount on US dollar!

the simply speakers page for Klipsch is here.. they have both the Phenolic and Titanium for your K52 driver http://www.simplyspeakers.com/Klipsch_bymfg_16-3-1.html

Watched both Sicario and Bridge of Spies on AC on way to SFO. Great movies both...different genres so can't really compare. Sicario being a Quebec shoot...just saying..

why not Elephant in the room grey?