efzauner

here is the data sheet for these thingies http://www.bose.com/pdf/pro/tech_data/accoustic_wave_cannon/td_panaray_awcs.pdf bose acoustic Wave Cannon.pdf

PS....In my Odyssey I have a small 8 inch Cerwin vega sub that needs only .35 cubic feet volume sealed box. The 10 inch infinity sub in my other minivan need .75cf or less, and is less than 5 inches deep. So you may indeed find a place for it. The sub will make a HUGE difference in the sound quality.

I have installed and listened to both. I have Polks in my minivan, and also Infinity Kappas in our other minivan. They are nice also! You will be happy with either. When installing the tweeters, first just run a wire inside and use some sticky caulking or something to position the tweeters for best sound. DO NOT CUT HOLES in doors or anything until you have played around with positioning and listened for a few weeks. In the corners of the dash, facing up into the windshieds, or firing crosswise should be 2 positions to try. Also, from my experience, you will absolutely want an external amp. As for subs, I have a small 8 inch sub in my Odyssey, and a larger 10 sub in my company supplied Freestar minivan. Not for any earthshaking bass, but in order to not have to run 60 Hz bass in the doors. Everything will rattle unless you spend alot of time, effort and money to line the inside of the doors with sound deadining sheets. In order of importance: 1: car deck with high pass filter for front speakers, plus a sub and sub amb. 2: If you get a separate amp for the speakers, it will mostlikely have a high pass filter built in, so your deck does not need one. You do not need to get a separate sub amp. An alternative is a small 4 channel amp, 2 channels used for the front speakers, with the other 2 bridged for the subwoofer. Let me know how it goes. I would be happy to help. I used to own a consumer electronics shop and sold and installed lots of car audio. Had Alpine, Polk, Pioneer

that thing is neet! However I disagree with the statement that the separate click and pop remover product is "first time ever". This sort of product to remove impulse noise was around before, in the late 70s early 80s. I remember reading a review of one in Stereo Review. You may also be thinking about DJ CD players like this one http://www.pioneerprodj.com/ that allow you to manually spin the CD thru a big dial thingy like you would an LP. It is of course all done digitally.

Extended warranties in general are a big money maker for stores and from a statistical point of view, are a waste of money. Electronics in general are very reliable. Most problems will show up during the normal 1 year warranty. I am assuming that you used IGroove has the standard warranty. For example. According to Consumer reports about 3-10 percent of electronics need repairs in 3 years. (this is an average, I dont want to go thru every product). So you would have to pay 3-10 percent of the cost of the product for a 3 year warranty to break even. If it costs more, then you loose. Most extended warranties cost considerably more than that. This repair rate may seem high, but a 5% annual repair rate results in a 20 life span, which is in line. I have lots of appliances and electronics that last 10 years or more. You probably have lots of electronics and applicances in your house. If you would buy extended warranties on all of them you would pay much more than simply accepting that stuff will break and you simply pay for the repair or buy a new one.

Ok, So I went late to bed and need more coffee. The 2 pranks I read where the bad ones. I read some more and they seem pretty funny. An accational prank, ok, but a group of people who do nothing but think up practical jokes can get to be too much.

I am going to be the devil's advocate here. This is funny, but I would be very annoyed if it happened to my store. I do have a sense of humour and I love practical jokes. What if that customer wanting to spend 5K on the plasma didn't get service because the manager was busy dealing with this joke. What if some thief took the opportunity of this mass confusion to actually steal something? What if because of this the store did not make its sales numbers and missed out on a rebate? What if a competitor hired the group to disrupt their rivals? The store manager was correct in being concerned at what was going on and called the cops. What if the police could not respond in time to a real emergency because they where dealing with this prank? What if an innocent customer, that by coincidence was wearing a similar shirt got stopped by the cops. He and the pranksters would deny he was involved, just like the rest of them. Would the police believe him? What if he did not leave? Would he be arrested? Imagine the disruption in his life all because of some pranksters. We expect now and then to be disrupted by real events such as crime, accidents etc, but when our lives are disrupted by pranksters it is not funny. I hope that this group gets hit with a lawsuite sometime. I looked at the web site and they do all sorts of practical jokes, and I don't think it is appropriate to do this. I red the thing about the no pants in the subway, and at first I thought it was overboard to put the pranksters in jail for 15 days, but then I thought about orderly conduct and police and security doing their job. What if someone wanted to jump in front of the subway and there was no security because they where busy with the pranksters. How do you tell the poor alzheimer's sufferer that really needs help today from the pranksters? A practica joke is fine when it involves a few people that eventually realize it is a joke, but when it ends only with police involvement it is too much. Most people doing practical jokes know when to stop. These people only stop when the police are involved. These people have nothing better to do. If they want excitement they should join the army! Or better yet; Pretend to be an elite covert squad and invade some country! I do not feel sorry for the naked on the subway poeple who went to jail. Imagine them now not being able to get a job because they have a criminal record? Sorry for being the party pooper this morning!

Never mind, Someone beat me to it and posted the original

Sorry, double post

In negotiating class I learn that there ar 2 kinds of people: 90% are honest, trusting poeople who want a win-win deal. The remaining 10% want to take advantage of everyone. The 90% good guys see this comming and protect themselves by also not trusting this few 10%. So while the larger 90% bunch of nice people only see bad in 10%, the 10% of bad people see the whole world as against them.

I just picked up 2 Pioneer CD-635 2 or 3 way electronic crossovers on ebay for under $15 Each. MSRP is over $150. Pioneer must be discontinuing or some store is liquidating. They are intended for car use, and need an external 12 volt power source, but they have adjustable cross over frequency, and level, but fixed 12dB/decade. This is a cheap way for anyone to try out by or try amping. just do a search on Pioneer CD-635 here is one of them http://cgi.ebay.ca/PIONEER-CD-635-3-WAY-ELECTRONIC-CROSSOVER-NETWORK_W0QQitemZ9718141506QQcategoryZ79840QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

First, is it this for a 5.1 system? If so , according to the Dolby surround manual, they should go on the side walls. Nobody seemed to mention that. I have seen to many installations with surrounds on the rear walls because people simply did not know better!

try this http://cgi.ebay.ca/KLIPSCH-CENTER-SPEAKER-KV-3_W0QQitemZ9718609773QQcategoryZ116197QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem or this http://cgi.ebay.ca/Klipsch-KV-1-KV1-Center-Channel-Speaker-Black-Like-New_W0QQitemZ9717258664QQcategoryZ116197QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem or this http://cgi.ebay.ca/Klipsch-Center-Channel-Speaker-KV-2-Good-Condition_W0QQitemZ9718086049QQcategoryZ116197QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Just watch for a few weeks to see what comes up, get a feel for the prices, so you know when there is a good deal.

Why don't you browse ebay a bit first, see what you can pick up ready built?

I don't want to give anyone the impression that I worship vinyl. I think our hobby is comparable to cars: that 60's Mustang or MG or Porsche will be blown away by modern sports cars but no one criticises the owners for loving their old cars. They have character all their own and are worthy of collecting. Same thing for old audio gear. My young kids where amazed when they first saw the real thing: Up till now they only saw records on cartoons! Must confess: one of the reasons I got the TT going again was wanting to listen to my old collections again. I never did replace my LPs by CDs. Except for a few, my CD and LP collection do not overlap. My next step is to get the 50 year old Heathkit tube amp and preamp going again and then restoring an old Lenco L70 turntable with 78 sytlus to be able to play some old 78s my parents have. That preamp has many phono equalization settings that I have not seen on others. I have been reading some of the Lenco and Thorens websites and it is odd that some people swear by the old Idler drive turntables with the heavy tonearms. I recall the vast reduction in rumble, wow and flutter when belt drive turntables where introduced together with low mass and high compliance cartrigdes in the early 70s. Seems like our nostalgia makes us forget the many technical advances that where made. Kinda feels neet to know the almost lost art of setting up a turntable and cartridge! The TT looks out of place now, at least it is with old company. Music is all about the overall pleasureable experience, and gets lost when we put too much emphasis on the last fraction of a dB of frequency response, noise, etc. Music is art, and needs to be enjoyed as such. Why discard an old recording of reputable conductors, symphonies or other genres because they are on old media. We do not cast away great films because they are in 4x3 B&W, or not in the latest surround format. So why throw away the old records that contain marvelous musical history that spanned many many decades?

It has been years since I have not had a dedicated audio setup. What with kids 3,7 and 8, the family room with TV full of toys, the planned HT room still years away. So tonight I said to hell with waiting and made some room in the living room curio cabinet for my old gear: Pioneer integrated amp, Dual 510 TT, with Shure M95. Hooked them up to a pair of nicely finished Heresy's I got a few years ago (My 30 year old Advent's are in the home gym), warmed up some milk and honey, adjusted the tonearm balance, dialed in 1.5g of downforce and anti skating, slapped on Genesis Trick of the Tail and sat down for some listening pleasure I have not heard in a couple of decades. Wow, It was well worth the wait. In a world of digital everything, the old groves still works fine! Can't wait till tomorrow night to pull out another moldie oldie LP! Maybe some Classical! Odd how I, like many, put away our LPs in 1984 when the CDs came out (still have my first CD player!) only to return to our first love as we get older! I was surprised that the 30 year old TT belt was still fine, everything worked!

I won't admit that I like to watch it, I just sit thru it to be with my wife in the evening. But I had dinner at the Outback in Methuen (north of Boston) on Tuesday night and I actually caught myself smiling to the music. They had it on a 32" TV. Who cares about the singing? Kelly's the Babe! The real winner was the RedSox game on a huge widescreen HDTV. When the camera zoomed in on the pitch from behind the pitcher, you could count the number of spins on the ball! It was really spectactular. WOW.

Sure FM is free, where you can get it. Like I mentioned in my first post. Canada is a wide open country, and the only stations available on the 401 from Montreal to Toronto is CBC, maybe some US NPR, bible thumpin stations. Similar for Montreal-Boston. As for sound quality, of course cars are a difficult environment, but with good speakers, properly placed, and external applification, you would be surprised. In the high end, the speakers are essentially high end drivers from ScanSpeak, Vifa, Focal, etc and othe big names. Most car systems just cannot even compare. Forget Bose. Keep in mind that my car system woud retail for over $2000 not counting custom installation. The amp is a Rockford Fosgate, which is owned by the same company that owns Hafler and the circuitry is identical to the Hafler studio amps. It puts out about 75watts RMS x 4 plus about 300Watts for the 10" sealed subwoofer. As far as I know, few factory installed systems come close. A typical Honda am/fm CD stock car system would have 4 cheap 6" speakers. Get the expensive 6 speaker high end audio option and all they do is add a pair of $5 tweeters in the dash and a cd changer. You could reproduce the entire system for about $200 retail. No wonder stock car audio is crap. Right now I have no home setup because of lots of renovation priorties before getting to the HT room. So my car system is the only one I get to enjoy for now...

Ok, So I have had XM for about a month and it is not so bad. I am still using the FM modulator but that may not be the issue. My aftermarket car deck has a "media expander" that makes a huge difference in the sound. I have a 10" subwoofer, component Viva tweaters and Rockford Fosgate (all Hafler internals) amps all round. I will be adding an electronic xover and separte amp for the tweets soon. I will be using RCAs directly, but do not expect a huge improvement. But will report back when I do. Only gripe is that NPR has so many reruns! As if there where not enough issues on this continent to talk about. BBC is better! Oh, and Chrome: All they seem to play are the top 40. Those are what gave disco the bad reputation. They never play any of the good disco nighclub stuff. Thats why I still have all the disco I downloaded from Napster years ago!...

Honestly there is only so far you can go with this. Do not waste any more money by buying a marine battery (and the charger needed). Those 2 will cost $200-300 anyway. You dont want a lead ACID battery in the house anyway. I really suggest that you invest in a HT receiver and a sub. Sell the amps on ebay and buy the real thing. something like this http://cgi.ebay.ca/Onkyo-TX-SR502-6-1-channel-Receiver-Brand-New-in-Box_W0QQitemZ9711839439QQcategoryZ39797QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem or http://cgi.ebay.ca/Pioneer-VSX-516-K-S-100w-x-7-Receiver-In-Sealed-Box_W0QQitemZ9711966799QQcategoryZ39799QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem What ever it is, make sure it has Dolby Digital (not just pro-logic since that wont let you decode DVD surround) and make sure you get the remote because a new one will cost about $100. Have fun.

This is why High School physics is important. Comp filtering is a result of constructive and destructive wave interferance. If you drop 2 stones in a pond, at some point the crest of one wave will cancel you the trough of the other. This is an example with just one frequency. If you have a span of frequencies, certain frequencies will cancel out. The cancellation effect is comb filtering. The highs and lows look like the teeth of a comb.

Ok, I see what you are doing. I've done this sort of thing...perhaps in my youth! On your TV is the connection intended to connect another set of loudspeakers or headphones? Can you use the TV volume control to adjust the volume of the sound going to the first amp(the one connected to your 3 ways?) . Generally the quality of the sound comming from the speaker out is not that great. Does your TV have a pair (left and right) Audio out RCA jacks? (most can also be controlled by the volume control) Are you using a VCR? Most VCRs have stereo Audio RCA outputs. (but no volume control) I am trying to figure out why you say your bass was bad and you had to rip out the cross over. That is usually not the culprit. Passive crossovers are not rocket science and I doubt that it was the source of the problem. There may not be alot of bass comming out of the TV speaker output anyway. It may also be modified by any TV sound processing such as BBE. I really have no other suggestions that to use an electronic crossover designed for cars. Either a very simple one that just does low pass to the sub amp. Something like this http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-ELECTRONIC-LOW-PASS-CROSSOVER-FOR-CAR-STEREO-SUBS_W0QQitemZ9709177126QQcategoryZ79840QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Or, if your 3 way speakers cannot reproduce much bass, then you need something with a high pass for them as well. Something like this: http://cgi.ebay.ca/LEGACY-LXR7A-ELECTRONIC-CROSSOVER-NETWORK-SYSTEM_W0QQitemZ9709239013QQcategoryZ79840QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem BTW how are you powering the car amp at home? If you are using a 12 volt battery charger, it may not be very clean power. It has probably some bad 60/120 Hertz ripple. You can fool around alot with fixing your present sub, or simply watch ebay, be patient. You can get something interesting for under $100 and get something real. something like this http://cgi.ebay.ca/BRAND-NEW-YAMAHA-YSTSW215-POWER-SUB-WOOFER-YST-SW215_W0QQitemZ9708725715QQcategoryZ3275QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

It actually makes a big difference. It depends on a lot of things. First you have to know if your amp is inverting or not. If it is non-inverting then the current flows out of the positive speaker connection on the positive side of the soundwave. If it is inverting then the current flows in on the positive side of the soundwave. Second it depends on your crossover points. If you woofer is direct, mids are inverted and your tweets are also direct, then most of the sound will be direct. But if you have only a 2 way crossing over at say 1.5Khz and the tweeter is inverted, then most of the soundwave will be inverted. Get it? Is it current flow or electron flow? In the case of semiconductors, it is holes, or the absense of an electron in the crystal lattice that transport current. If you have push pull, then you have PNP and NPN transistors. In one the holes are positive, in the other the holes are negative. if the holes are positive then the current flows that direction. Do you follow? If the holes are negative, that means electron flow and the current is reversed . The same would be for Mosftet output stages with Pchannel and Nchannel fets. The most difficult part is to determine what the cable manufacturer intended the arrows to mean? Current flow or electron flow? Does it say that on the spec sheet? Are the arrows the same direction for both conductors? Putting all of the above in a neat boolean formula: If ((inverting amp) and ((Push Pull)Not(NPNorPNP)) and ((2 way inverting tweeter) Not(3 way inverting mid)) and (arrows mean current)) OR (you payed alot for the wire) then Arrows point to speakers, Else IF (you did not pay much for wire) then Arrows = Don't care .

So it was a passive sub with a built in passive crossover (basically just a coil, maybe a cap), connected directly to a power amp. OK, so you removed the existing crossover and now you want something better. Since you are already using a car amp, why not go for an inexpensive electronic crossover from Pyramid or the like? you can find em on ebay cheap. Hook it up just like you would in a car: From your home audio receiver pre amp out or tape monitor out to the xover. The low pass output of the cross ove to the sub amp to the sub, and High Pass output back into the power amp in or tape monitor input of your receiver. Is this being used just to add some low end to your stereo? Or for a HT receiver. Please describe more of what you have. Do you have a regular pair of speakers? A stereo receiver or amp?

Um why was it sucking? Most subs blow! (sorry could not resist) but before answering the questions, you need to provide more info. What make and model subwoofer is it? or at least answer this: Is it a passive subwoofer with a passive crossove that simply connects to an amplifier's speaker outputs or is it an active subwoofer that connects to a HT receiver's subwoofer output jack? Do you have to plug it into the wall?