Deang

Crossover from hell. I wrap the caps in electrical tape because of my lack of depth perception, and it protects the caps if I inadvertanly make contact with the soldering iron. I have building boards from scratch and using RelCap Multicaps -- but money was short and so I used what I had -- which was the original Regar upgrade kit I bought before rebuilding the first set. I only ordered the kit so I could find out the new values they were using. They are basically Solens. The MultiCaps definitely sound better -- but, these are still breaking in (if you believe in such a thing). You can't really tell, but I replaced the vinyl on rear of the bass bins. Not as painful as one might think. Heat guns are marvelous for removing the old vinyl -- and putting on the new stuff is a breeze if you have a steady hand.

The bassbins are usually in very bad shape when I get them. So, lots of sanding and patching and sanding and patching. Then two coats of primer, one coat of flat black, then three coats of textured, semi-gloss enamel. The masonite ring is lightly sanded, and small amounts of ebony stain are applied until it's black. It takes forever because I don't want the liquid to compromise the masonite. Steel wool gets it a little glossy.

Baltic Birch plywood sanded and then rubbed out with two different shades of Watco's Danish Oil. This premium plywood adds some much needed rigidity.

So what do you do in your spare time? This is my third set. As always, stipped down to the last screw and built back up. Complete restoration with a handful of physical and cosmetic improvements. Grills are done, but I listen to them like this. I may not eBay these.

LOL - Don't quite know to respond to that one, I can't figure if I'm been insulted or not. Truth is -- I don't hear squat over 15khz. You're not really being fair. I've only done two crossovers, and the second version isn't even in the speakers yet. Electrically speaking, the parts I'm using are identical to the stock PCBs with the exception of the tweeter circuit, which is down less than a quarter of an ohm. Hell, all I'm doing is using better parts. I think the RF-7's are good enough to warrant the investment. C'mon now, it sure isn't like people aren't modding their Heritage speakers. I think all Klipsch speakers sound somewhat 'screechy' without some decent gear behind them. You should also know my 'ear-bleeder' comments are always tongue in cheek -- because I really liked the Cornwalls on the Scott. I'm sure you followed my posts where I spent a lot of time eating crow. I just think the RF-7's sound cleaner somehow. The bottom is tighter, and the top is smoother, and they definitely go louder without losing their integrity. But yeah, to each his own. We all get used to a certain thing early on -- and we compare everything to it like a baseline. I like a good midrange, but I don't want to be run over with it. Did you catch John Warren's thread a little while back where he yanked the squawkers on his K-horns and replaced them with quality direct radiators? Not one person said a negative thing about it, and yet I get constant grief for trying to make my RF-7's the best they can be. I'm starting to get upset, must be that female side coming through again.

Which texts? What politicians?

Thanks Ray. Hi Tom -- well, you're close: "The Son is the radiance of God's glory and the exact representation of his being, sustaining all things by his powerful word..." "He is the image of the invisible God, the firstborn over all creation."

"a representation of a thing can never be the thing itself" What idiot came up with that one? I guess if it's in the context of comparing live music to recorded music then I suppose it's true. What would one call a visual or tangible rendering of something intangible?

Nice work Trey, I bet it sounds great.

Over 200 posts on this forum and he comes back with this?

Klipsch and Parasound huh? I would probably use a good 12 gauge stranded like the Oval 12.

Very cool Mike -- you've got to be pretty pumped to finally get those in there. Ask Dave Hekert what he thought about my Cornwall mods -- and please, get some 10 AWG on that sub.

"But how many of those same listeners can reliably detect the difference between an Orange Drop and a Wonder Cap?" Or metallized polypropylenes to film and foils? I'm about to find out. As usual, I can't resist the temptation and will find out for myself -- at least as far as these parts in the speaker crossovers go. I do know the Auricaps in my tweeter circuit and the ICW's were a definite improvement over what was in there. I don't need emotional comfort, I just want to know the truth. If there hadn't been a notable improvement I would have said as much. Construction materials impact the sound -- I'm completely convinced of this. Cool thread for sure, and on the whole, I definitely see where Mark is coming from I thought Craig's hypothesis on transformers was interesting. The analogy may have some validity.

Thanks, yes I know -- but I was speaking of Litz wire.

I'm on my period. The poor guy was a forum addict and it almost destroyed his life.

"Dear" Well, it took a while -- but I can finally see I won your heart. Certainly the use of litz wire in the HF circuit would be ideal, however, I still have concerns that driving the DCR that low with the RF-7's would upset the balance between the horn and woofers. Alpha Core doesn't sell anything smaller than 20 gauge. I did make an attempt to buy my own 23 AWG litz to roll my own inductors -- but all of the vendors that I contacted only sold in bulk. I really didn't need a skid of that stuff.

Absolutely. That's it exactly. Klipsch consistently finds a way to let the music through. Even with their colorations, Klipsch speakers do a better job of getting out of the way than just about anything out there.

One that sounds good.

Leave well enough alone.

The RF-7's don't suffer from the 'horn sound'. Good or bad depending on your point of view. No squawker, no earbleed.

A good circuit counts more for good sound than a poor one with good parts. Of course, a good design with good parts is the best.

Ran across this statement: "Capacitors used in crossovers MUST BE NON-POLARIZED and for best sound must have low self-inductance. High-quality 100-200 volt rated, foil wound Mylar capacitors should be used and should be individually paralleled by 0.01 microfarad polypropylene or polystyrene capacitors to short out the high-frequency self-inductance of coil formed by the many layers of foil winding inside. Does this apply to polypropylene and film and foils as well?

I'm sure an Outlaw 2-channel product will have no problem besting most run of the mill SS vintage pieces. Let's wait and see what she weighs in at -- I bet it's more than 20lbs, where most modern day crap comes in at.

I thought you were buying RF-7's, and my crossovers? At any rate, best reliable source for these tubes would be Brent Jesse at http://www.audiotubes.com

That's what ya get for stickin yer hands in there.