Deang

NO SOLVENTS!! The metal job on the Scott was done using a Scotchbrite scratchpad (equivelant to .000 steel wool, but does not fray), and 1500 grit cloth. Start with the scratchpad to loose all surface grit, grease, stains, etc. It's important to only go in one direction as much as possible. When finished, vacuum. Vacuum well, especially the tube sockets. Then begin again with the cloth. One direction only. It's not always possible to do this because of things you have to get to with wierd angles. Keep in mind that the cloth is removing a bit of metal, and so leaves a 'grain'. Going in one direction helps it to make it not to look like, well -- like some idiot scoured it with an SOS pad:) The whole surface will turn black from this process. When finished, used windex to clean everything off (spray the windex on a clean cotton rag, not on the amp). A tee-shirt will do nicely for this. At this point, go back over it again with the scratchpad to restore the satin look it started with. Again, one direction only. When you are happy with the look, vacuum again -- pay special attention to the tube sockets. Remove the bottom plate of the amp and vacuum. I used the horsehair brush attachment. When done, remove the brush and do the tube sockets from underneath.

"...Can you please ask him to give me a second chance?" That sounds pretty close to an apology to me. I don't know what's worse -- banning someone or having a forum 'blackout'. I have to admit, if I was the Webmaster, and had the double duty of moderating -- it would be very difficult to decide what to do sometimes. I like the 'three strikes and you're out' rule -- just my opinion though. Now, it's true that if the Webmaster or moderator makes a very specific request of you -- and you fail to comply -- then banishment is well deserved. A bit of a twist on this particular circumstance. Hey, how about temporary banishments -- kind of like a short jail sentence. A 15 day loss of forum privilage, then 30, then outta here.

Well yeah, I think the 'right' K-horns would be a significant step up. Of the speakers in the Heritage line -- the Cornwall was PWK design of compromises. The Cornwall, with some work -- is a wonderful speaker, but not without it's limits. This really comes down to room size, musical tastes, average listening levels, etc. You might have to do a little homework though, as all K-horns aren't created equal. Of course, a brand new pair would really be cool -- if you can afford them (I know I can't). To be honest, I'm surprised you haven't moved the Belles into the 2-Channel System, and the Cornwalls into the HT system, as the Cornwall's sensitivity rating would match up well with the RB-5's, and the 2-channel setup would benefit from the horn loaded bass of the Belles. With corner/wall loading -- the Belles will play low enough for 99% of anything you would play on that system.

Welcome to the forum Craig, and welcome to the Klipsch Family. You are going to find out real soon just what kind of Family we are too. A big wonderful, happy, dysfunctional kind -- and we love to push the envelope and get the webmaster's blood pressure up! Seriously though, these threads are rare, and most of us know how to act when they do pop up. BTW -- it wasn't very nice of you to spank us for getting out of the audio realm, and then posting your opinion in the thread you were objecting too. Looks like you'll fit right in with the rest of us loons, of course, I don't know if the Forum can survive two 'Craigs'.

In my system, the Sylvanias kicked the crap out of the Redbase 5692's. Edmond, how can you enjoy any tubes -- you sent them all to me. I'll get those into the mail next week.

Serious horns would be nice -- some wood lenses would be awesome. I think Maron is right about what we hearing. What he says makes sense. I think the damping on the basket just moves the resonance up. I do think it's possible that the place the resonance moved to, does less harm then where it was. My squawker and tweeter are completely wrapped -- from the base where the lenses attach to the drivers, all the way to the motorboard. As soon as I get done rebuilding this LAST set of DQ-10's -- I'm going to install the Deflex pad, add some additional bracing in the cabinet, and mod the risers to accept sand.

Actually, I have Craig's Telefunkens -- which is why I won't answer his emails or return his calls. He actually thinks I'm sending them back! I need to get Edmond's Telefunkens back to him too -- or he might feel compelled to repossess the Cary!! Heh.

Doesn't this count as a "war thread" -- yeesh, we might all be banned tomorrow. Yep, it sucks. However, now that Iraq isn't a closed society anymore -- maybe some real digging can begin. Garden of Eden's under there somewhere.

Hi Leo, still here -- lurking more -- posting less. Tired. Good info Lynn, thanks. "In other words, "chrometop" does not in and of itself have any special significance other than perhaps assist in the identification of the maker." Well yes, that's it exactly. Who wants to go around saying, "Sure love those Sylvania 6SN7WGTA's". It's cooler to say, "Got me some Chrometops dude!"

I agree with everyone here. I did say 'most' solid state -- and there is quite a bit of solid state I really like. I especially agree with Jeff on the headroom thing. I only use a 20 watt tube amp on the Cornwalls simply because I never really drive them that loud. If I did -- I would opt for 60 to 80 watts of ultralinear, or a good solid state amp with a tube preamp.

If I'm running a 20 watt tube amp, and am only using 10 watts, and not going into clipping, and enjoying my nice 'warm' sound -- what 'distortion' am I listening to? The 'warm' designation is only in comparison to the steely hard sound of most solid state. Good tube amps actually just sound 'natural' and harmonically correct. Why don't you ask him about the crossover distortion solid state amps exhibit? Oh yeah, I forgot -- they don't 'measure' that. Ask him why solid state amp specifications are rated while "at full output".

I dont think Maron is asking or saying I'm a 'Creatine' -- which is the crystalline molecule you are referencing. No, he is thinking 'Cretan'. Cretans of course are from Crete, and the source of the modern day usage of 'Cretan' can be found in Titus 1:12 of the New Testament -- "Even one of their own prophets has said, "Cretans are always liars, evil brutes, lazy gluttons." Of course, I find this pretty funny -- and those of you who know me -- know why. Yeesh.

Maron, In spite of your responses to my thoughts being somewhat condescending and patronizing, I posted a response that was quite sincere. I admitted that your suggestion of unhooking the squawker and tweeter, so I could more accurately hear my assumed changes to the woofers output -- was a good idea. I was trying to learn something, and specifically asked you if that was the reason you wanted me to disconnect the other drivers. Your last response is in the context of sound reflection from the frontside of the basket into the back of the cone -- and I hadn't even thought that far yet -- but still dealing with thoughts regarding the impact of mechanical vibration on soundwaves emanating from the driver surface. I appreciate your input -- but the spirit in which you do it stinks. So, did you do these distortion tests at various SPL's? Were these distortion measurements done at the driver, or 10 feet away where the ear/brain do their work? Yes, at 95db and up -- I can hear the difference. Get over it. "BULLSH!T" indeed.

That's a good suggestion -- I hadn't thought of closeout models.

Yeah, that was me, and what I said was that "caulking the squawker doesn't do crap". I think I was wrong. I'm so busy anymore I don't always make, or take time to post about the new and wierd *** things I do. Originally, and what I did post about, was that I sprayed a very thick layer of acoustic damping spray called 'Road Kill' over the external surface of my lenses. Before doing so however, I found out that by tapping on them while attached to the baffle -- they did not ring. In fact, they made less noise while tapping around on them than the woofer basket. Since I had already made the purchase of the 'Road Kill' product -- I decided to go ahead and spray them down anyways. After attaching them back to the baffle, tapping on them didn't sound any different than what they sounded like before I sprayed. I took a listen and couldn't hear squat difference. I concluded it was a waste. I did wrap about 4 inches of caulk around the base of the lens just for the heck of it. I week later I was back into one of the cabinets staring at the Type B's -- contemplating some ALKs (after getting AL's quote I about dropped a turd). I was looking at the squawker, and wasn't so much thinking about 'ringing', but vibration in general. Then I started thinking about what vibration really is: rapid, uncontrolled movement. I then began wondering about what happens to wave forms coming off of the diaphram, which are already moving in and out in a very rapid minscule way -- when subjected to vibration (the very rapid moving back and forth in another way, or direction). Now, the amount of movement may be miniscule -- but what happens to the effected waveform as it moves down the throat of the horn? What is it doing by the time it hits your ears at the listening position? If you shine a flashlight beam on the wall, and then move the flashlight -- though the amount of movement of the flashlight is rather small -- the movement of the beam on the wall is pretty extreme in relationship to the movement of the flashlight in your hand. Does sound work this way? I'm not talking resonances here -- just the impact of mechanical vibration on wave forms. So, I caulked EVERYTHING. To me, it's not about 'ringing', but about using damping and mass loading to gain rigidity. It takes less time to caulk the entire surface of two squawker and tweeter lenses, and throw on a CD -- then the time it takes to search the net and spend 3 hours reading technical papers on sound propagation -- with no guarantee of finding what I'm looking for. I still need to do the reading however -- just no time right now. I don't think these tweaks do much of anything at the lower listening levels, but at the higher ones -- where I enjoy living sometimes.

I couldn't find a warm body to take my place at work this weekend. Maybe next time I'll just stick a corpse in my chair and leave. What's the point in listening to anything there if all you get to hear is freaking polite audiofool music -- give me a break. It might not be a bad idea that if we are serious about doing this (setting up a NOSvalves room), that we take some time and discuss set up and music selection beforehand. Maybe even print up a schedule for general distribution at the show of what time what system will be played, and what music there will be. I can't imagine anything worse than having to listen to the likes of yo-yo mamma (or whatever the hell his name is) all day.

Removing it is cake -- just use a good exacto knife and slice underneath it. In the case of the sqauwker lens, just slice through it and peel off. C&S -- you really NEED to do the whole squawker lens and tweeter lens as well.

Hell, what do you know? Like me, you're freaking half deaf. It's a good thing I didn't show up. I would have brought some Chevelle, Disturbed, Creed, and some STP -- and chased all of that damn sissy music out of the building.

No, I don't. I wish I did. What are you saying? By unhooking the squawker and the tweeter I can more accurately hear any assumed changes to the woofer output? That's actually a pretty good idea. I bet that 15 incher sure sounds terrible playing at 90db all by its lonesome.

Just think, if you would have stayed in the business you could have lost your mind 20 years ago -- instead of having to wait another 20 years for it to happen. So, what's 30 years? Seems to me that all anyone really does in the industry is reinvent the wheel over and over again. What about my making a triode out of a pentode question? Any relevent thoughts on that?

You're a turkey...you didn't answer either one of my questions I'm a reader -- I always seem to stumble across the most interesting things. "According to former Paragon owner, Mark Deneen, the original Model 10, designed by 'consulting' engineer Bruce Moore, was unmanufacturable and only 50 were ever made. I never heard one, but I did hear, and even owned, the replacements, the Model 12 and 12A. They were excellent in their day, maybe the best available, with full-bodied sound, spatial information and good retrieval of decay. That was breakthrough performance at the time."

LOL Fini strikes again. I wouldn't mess with changing out the acoustic foam with another type of acoustic foam. I really think the way to go is with the Deflex panels.

Heck, that ain't too bad. That's about the same size area I listen in with my RF-7's. The only difference is I have no wall behind me. Well, there's a wall, but it's 20 feet away. Hey dude -- near field listening is the bomb. Set your chair or couch right against the wall under the window, and use a small pillow behind your head while you're jamming -- and that window will be a non-issue. Ready for the magic 'Reference' formula? Start in the corners, toed in about 35 degrees. Move them out 16 inches. The front baffle of the speaker will be about 20 inches from the side wall, and the rear of the speaker will be about 17 inches from the side wall. They should end up almost 7.5 to 8 feet apart (middle horn to middle of horn). You'll be 10 - 12 feet back depending on what wall you put them on. Remember, it's a game of inches. Seriously. If you get some goofy room node thing going on in the bass -- moving them as little as 1 inch either closer to the wall, or away from the wall will get rid of it. Do minor adjustments on the toe in until the horns are actually pointing at a point slightly behind your head. Magic.

Yeah, I remember that. So then, you have the best of both worlds!! Of course, those RF-7's are no match for the Heresies.