Deang

Yeah we know. You guys down there really need to start wearing your pants.

DT is hardly a new kid on the block. At any rate -- great speakers if you need a good nap.

Little girl with guitar music is 'safe'. How can it possibly sound bad? What a great post Paul. A speakers true worth is determined by how it does with complexity.

In my original post regarding the tweak I pointed out that what set me on the course to caulking the basket was the nice clanking sound it exhibited when tapped. Even just gently tapping it. Now, imagine the pressure waves, coupled with the violent mechanical movement -- as that 15 incher starts chugging away. Anything resonating that's attached to the cabinet, increases the amount of resonance of the cabinet. Also, as the basket itself is resonating/vibrating, it transfers the energy back into the driver assembly -- causing a degradation in coherence. The less vibration the better. Anyone who is willing to argue to the contrary hasn't thought this through. I also want to point out that the woofer in the Cornwall goes up to 700Hz. We are clear out the bass range here. We are now into the critical lower midrange. The place at which the woofer meets the squawker needs to be as clean as possible. With the combination of damping and mass loading of the basket, there is a reduction in vibration that helps the lower midrange out some. Basically, there is less intermodulation distortion. The additional coherence trickles down to the midbass. Vibration is a loss of useable energy. Think about it. The driver is doing its thing, and energy is being expelled in the form of mechanical movement. Where do you want the energy to go? How do you want it to be used? Do you want the energy to move air, or metal and wood? To turn the Cornwall into a speaker that can do 100db with Rock music -- it needs the damping and additional mass loading on the lenses and basket, addtional bracing between the motorboard and back panel, and about 20 sheets of deflex. I don't know why PK didn't think this important. I think maybe part of it might have been his strong aversion to Rock music. There is a story in his biography about him picking up a new car. The radio station was tuned to a Rock station. He listened to a song, and after it was finished he pulled the car over, got into the trunk, pulled out a crowbar, and proceeded to rip the radio out of the dash. Well yeah, I guess if you listen to Jazz, Chamber music, and Classical -- you're not going to be too worried about what your speaker sounds like with Black Sabbath at 100db or more. You can all believe whatever you want, but I'm telling you the mods take the Cornwall from what I believe to be a very mediocre performer with Rock music -- into a speaker that can actually step into the ring with the RF-7.

This was the year I promised myself to be there. So much for promises. Nice report Mike.

You try the different options and see what you enjoy the most. There is no 'right' -- except in the context of what you enjoy.

We're talking brutal dynamics here -- Klipschorns with 6 SVS Ultras and 3 Crown amps would get you close. You would definitely have to poop afterwards.

Klipsch Hornless Speakers: Hurry! Buy them now before they're gone FOREVER!! I hate eBay.

Bridging a stereo amp is not the same thing as a monoblock. My experience with bridging is that it's poo-poo-ka-ka. "Bridging is the summing of two channels of an amp to give one higher-powered channel. An amp normally rated at 100W might deliver 300W to 400W when bridged. Because of the summing however, the load on the amp is seen as half of its normal value. In other words, an 8-ohm speaker becomes a 4-ohm speaker load, and a 4-ohm speaker becomes a 2-ohm speaker load. Speaker impedance ratings are nominal only. Actual impedance may dip to a much lower value through part of its range. When an amp's current load has been doubled due to bridging, it can often fail to provide the required amount of current into the load. Sonic effects include harshness in the midrange and highs, and thin bass. In almost all situations therefore, biamping with similar amps will result in better sound quality than bridging. Bridging is best left to professional sound-reinforcement applications, where sound quality is secondary." -- John C. Aussie

Creek makes wonderful sounding gear -- it probably sounds great.

Someone that actually hears what I hear. Amazing.

Unreal. Gee, I wish I made $70 an hour and only had to work 120 hours a month.

O.K. Leo, it's time to talk about the impedance issue again.

"Bad solder joints." My eyesight must be awful. I just can't tell from the picture.

I don't know -- you did specify the nice wide soft ones.

ALWAYS use a POSTAL Money Order. If the seller steals your money -- it is a FELONY, and you can call the FBI.

Man, don't ask Craig about cosmetics -- he could just about care less. I don't even think he uses a case on his. OTOH -- I went ahead and gave this a whirl, and can only say it's better than nothing. I would still prefer a nice original wood case, but I really don't feel like forking out the bucks. The work with the 'case' in question is average at best. You basically get two predrilled, stained, plywood slats. Once they are on it looks better than you thought it would. The paint job on the metal grill sucks. It doesn't look like he does multiple coats over a couple of days for a nice smooth surface appearance, but instead looks like he poured a bucket of paint over it. Well, it's not that bad -- but I am glad my unit is shoved into a shelf so no one can see it. I've been thinking about my own alternative to the screen. I'll probably come up with some nice before summer's end.

Mike has a good point. It's kind of unusual for a fairly new cap to fail like that. Beautiful amps -- why mess around Ed? Box them up and send them to Eric or Craig for a good going over. The shrinkage of the covering of the two fast caps is kind of wierd too. Had to be some serious heat under there to cause that. If they were my amps, I would want them completely gone over. Soldering looks good to me -- what are guys seeing?

I used Artto's recipe last night after I read his post. It took me until about 2 am to finish off one pair. I wish he would have went into more detail, because I had trouble getting the steel wool fragments to stick to Jello properly. I had to make four batches of Jello before it had the proper consistancy. Artto didn't mention it, but cooling the Jello in the fridge is critical to the process. I did have to cheat somewhat, as I did not have any methane gas filled uranium rods. I ended up just using copper, but I did have the neighbor's dog fart on it a couple of times before I used it.

Ed, do not pay that kind of money for $8 in parts and 30 minutes worth of work. Yeesh, what a rip off. Yeah, you paid $50 for the bench fee, and he should tell you which cap is bad. I also think you should replace it with another Jensen copper PIO. Hell, you only need one -- $20 and 5 minutes with a soldering iron! BTW, the losses with the PIO are not as critical in amplifier applications as they are in speaker crossovers. Save yourself some grief and just replace the bad cap with another Jensen. I can't believe anyone would recommend a mylar cap in the coupling position. http://www.welbornelabs.com/jensen.htm

Egads! You got that right. I was thinking the same thing when I first looked at the picture. The other problem here is that the shelf above the tubes is so close to them, that over a very short period of time that shelf will dry out and become a 1st class fire hazard.

Yikes. OTOH -- How much would one of these go for if made today? Completely reworked and you're still around $700.

It has to be something simple, there just isn't enough parts inside those things to be anything but something simple.

Define 'others'. Other things within Klipsch besides the Heresies -- or 'others' as in others?

Just think Justin, that's a very entry level piece of gear. Moving up to a EL-84 push-pull like the Scott or Eico could really satisfy you for quite some time. Good tube amps are like ice cream -- different flavors, but they all taste pretty darn good. There's the 'see through' quality of SET -- the ultimate in transparency, the warm, open sound of the vintage push-pulls -- that make you forget the gear, the rip snorting pounce and pace of the beam tubes like the KT-88 and 6550, to the big, fat, expansive soundstage and texture of the EL-34. All smooth All liquid In time, you may find you need more than one.