Rockets

Champagne, you beat me to it, LOL! I have to admit, when I first heard the question I was thinking the plane would indeed be static, given the equal but opposite forces. It should be the same as connecting a dead weight, of weight equal to the thrust to the plane. No way, no how it's going to fly Orville. Then I started thinking what would happen if one were to lay the Shuttle over on it's side and attached roller skates to the external tank. Placing this on a treadmill traveling in the opposite direction of equal air speed should result in a static display. Yeah, the conveyor belt would be running it's *** off compared to the ground, but the Shuttle would be doing the same in the opposite direction. Remove the skates, and the two would still be running equal but opposite speeds to one another, but not to the ground. The reality of it sunk in at that point. Standing the Shuttle on its tail, and conveyor belt vertically sealed the deal. Granted the Shuttle really only uses its wings when it's landing like a brick, but I think overall the comparison is close enough for government work...of course I could still be wrong[]

http://www.michaelhodges.com/missing.html Why is it picking a political candidate is like having 150 TV channels and nothing on?

I did this...I didn't turn into Charles Atlas, but I did go from 200 pounds to 167 and 30% body fat to 17% in 12 weeks. (OK, I cheated...a lot!) Easy to do the program actually. Exercise, protein, carb portion control, six meals a day and fat intake reduction (30 grams or less) is the key to it. http://www.bodyforlife.com/success/beforeAfterAfters.asp

James, when I first started homebrewing I was told the US used to have a brewery in practically every town and city before WW II. Many of these obviously were owned and run by immigrants who brought with them the knowledge and taste of their homelands. Think of how clannish the immigrants were, living together in their own tight nit enclaves within a city. During the war the breweries lost their major customers, the men, and toned down (de-hopped, and de-malted) their beers to cultivate a new customer base...the women. How true this is, I can't say for sure., but it seems to have a ring of truth to it. So if you want to blame our lack of tradition, blame the women!! (Oh, God what am I saying.....) Sorry ladies! (and girlie men) I will agree the major beer companies beer could not pass the German purity laws, however the same can not be said about the micro brews. I also think the popularity of the micro's is slowly changing the taste of the beer drinkers in this county. While we don't have a local brewery in every subburb, the trend is growing with brew pubs all over the country. Let's back up to 'beer' itself. There are different 'styles' of beer, and that's how they're judged. These styles reflect the entire spectrum of beers found through out the world. http://www.beerhunter.com/beerstyles.html What I'm saying is a micro brewed beer here in the states will match up against a German beer of the same 'style'. Lager, bock, dopplebock, Continental dark or Pilsners, (I left out the English and Belgian styles) will match up because they're made with the same basic ingredients, (with variations of the type of malt, hops and yeast) brewed at the same temperatures. The yeast used to brew the "import" beers is available today even to the homebrewer. http://www.wyeastlab.com/beprlist.htm So when you say you've enjoyed many a micro brewed beers but none of them were the same as their German counterparts, I'm thinking you may have been doing and apples to oranges thing with the styles, but I could be wrong. I'm glad that you like GOOD beer. I wish there were more like you honestly. But to say there are none to be found, brewed here in the States just isn't true. Every year anybody that's somebody in the micro world goes here to be judged on 'style'. Styles that match all known through out the world. http://www.beertown.org/events/gabf/index.htm With the exception of some "specialty beers" ( like pumpkin, espresso etc), you will see the German purity laws enforced here. If you're really interested in the different styles and what micro's mimic them here in the US seach through this website which is quite extensive... http://www.realbeer.com/ http://www.realbeer.com/edu/homebrewing/styles.php While you're at it check this place out http://www.newbelgium.com/ Sorry for the long post. James, I'm not trying to rub this in your face or anything so please don't take it as such. It's just as a homebrewer I get kinda of insulted when I hear those "fighting words" of there's no good beer here in the States!!! Almost like saying there isn't any "good" American made audio equipment!! Go spend $50 on a homebrew kit...you'll be glad you did!!! Ciao!

No offense but those that think there are no "good beers" brewed in the US of A, don't know what the hell you're talking about!! Yes, German beers are great, and many of the Belgain ales are even better. Having said that there is a slew of Micro's in this country that'll knock your socks off. Some of my favorites are from these brewery's. http://www.dogfish.com/ http://www.redhook.com/ http://www.flyingdogales.com/ I just recently found the dogfish beers, and have to tell you I'm quite impressed with all of them. Very complex flavors. Their 90 minute IPA packs 9% alcohol by volume and yet is quite smooth. Even the 60 minute IPA kicks it up a notch. IPA beers are quite hoppy (some will say bitter) but the malty sweetness in a good IPA will balance the beer out. Having said that if you're a liquid air (lite beer) drinker, ignore all the above. This beer isn't for girlie men..... Check them out. You'll no doubt have to go to a specialty store as these are not always found at the local grocery. MAKE SURE you buy FRESH beer. If it's been sitting on the shelf for a few months, I'd let it continue to sit there. With a few exceptions beer does not age like wine. Time and sunlight are the enemy. So don't buy beer in clear or green bottles. Sunlight will destroy it and turn it skunky. I think the reason Corona got everyone putting lemon wedges in their beer was to hide the stink. Lastly, if you can't find it MAKE it. Homebrew your own. No local supplier? Buy from these guys http://www.heartshomebrew.com/ they have fast shipping and are nice to deal with. If you can boil water you can make beer. You don't even have to mess with traditional bottling. I re-use 2 liter soda bottles (kept in the dark of course). If I've offended any one, I'm sorry...but I challenge you to take the challenge of enjoying a good micro brewed beer or homebrew for that matter. I think I'll go pour a cold one now. Cheers!

The reason is... we don't WORK. At least not in the real sense. Ever seen any of those shows on PBS where they take you back to the 1700's or 1800's? Farm life for surviival is brutal. The participants generally lose a lot of weight (FAT) Ever heard of the "Mediterranean diet" ? People eat one cup of olive oil (FAT) a day, but are thin and healthy by our standards...why? because many of them are still doing manual labor and working it off. Today we go to the gym....or some of us do.... JMHO

The funny thing is, on my computer once the GIF is loaded up to Klipsch I lose the animation. I use two different browsers and it makes no difference. Obviously something isn't set right, but I'll be damned if I know what it is! For those of you that can seee it here's a slow motion view

Crap, this may not work. This is an animated GIF showing a lightning bolt striking the airliner.

Shawn, you have a PM for an off topic question. THANKS

Does not work as in.... the spread sheet did not function for you? The values are incorrect? Granted you can't integrate an autoformer into the equation, but other than that I 've missed the drawback. I ran this 3 way on there, and it's calc's look correct to me, but hey I could be wrong. Third Order Butterworth Spread (FH/FL) 10 (8 or 10) ® Woofer : 4 Ohm ® Midrange : 16 Ohm ® Tweeter : 8 Ohm F low : 400 Hz F high : 4000 Hz F high : 1264.91 Hz Tweeter- High Pass Section C1 = 3.56 uF L1 = 0.24 mH C2 = 9.30 uF Woofer - Low Pass Section L2 = 2.23 mH C3 = 132.94 uF L3 = 0.85 mH Midrange - Band Pass Section C4 = 17.17 uF L4 = 4.79 mH C5 = 52.77 uF L5 = 0.76 mH C6 = 3.78 uF L6 = 0.32 mH Bandpass gain = 0.85 dB Midrange Polarity= Normal

This spreadsheet is also worth a look http://www.pvconsultants.com/audio/targetgen/pcdc.htm

I guess I was focusing on the apparent stooge inside the room with him. He's pretty convincing. I never could see the glass moving.

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/37292/criss_angel_walks_through_glass/ http://www.metacafe.com/watch/72515/amazing_jewelry_magic/ There are other's as well. Some you can figure out, but these...

No, this is Deja vu... http://www.metacafe.com/watch/50822/criss_angel_deja_vu/ forgive me for going off topic...this just came to mind after your comment!

Everything you ever wanted to know about soldering... http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/solder.htm

Q-man the 511b's may indeed be designed for 500 hz, but they will go to 400 hz, maybe even down to 350hz . Granted it's not 300hz, but for some of us the compromise is a necessary evil. BTW, I think I stole this plot from Shawn...hope you don't mind !!!

Heyyyyyyy Jim... well, I have a new roof on!!! But I still have some drywall, and carpet to replace. Then there's the back porch upgrades,,, and I shut my waterfall down so I can do some mod work and add another pump...Meanwhile I've caught boat fever...LOL!! Found this Hobie 21 sport cruiser .........real tempting !!!! I need it like I need a root canal, but I WANT it!!! I don't know WHEN I'll ever start with the speaker(s) build. Part of the back porch remod's were going to be the installlation of some 3 ways w/ 511b's.... Are you caught up? Ready for this years game of hurricane Russian roulette??

Those are not UGLY. They're FUGLY. -

No, mine looks like this...

I just did a small bubinga veneer job with the iron on method and I had issues. First issue...I'm NOT a wood worker, and I don't pretend to be one. However, after starting out with a small sample piece that came out flawless I was filled with false confidence. What I did... right, wrong or indifferent was use TiteBond III glue and not the Titebond II. Some say this was my first mistake. Work step wise I doubled coated both the veneer and plywood substrate with glue and let them dry. Following that I put the iron on the highest heat setting and started pressing. Steam or no steam it didn't seem to matter. When I finished ironing everything looked GREAT!! Flat, smooth, you couldn't ask for a better job. That is until I applied the first coat of finish. Then it became clear I had an epidemic of "mumps" on my hands. I had bubbles coming out of my......wood all over the damn place. I've tried pressing them back down a million times, some do, others won't and I'm convinced even newer ones popped up. I played around with not allowing the glued to dry beyond the gel state and it didn't make any difference. One other area that's a PITA is seaming. I taped my edges together prior to applying the glue. Once the glue is applied to the veneer, the wood starts it's culing thing. and all those sweet joints you just spent an hour setting up are now ripping themselves apart. I've since read an article where someone applied a coat of shellac to the side of the veneer they intended on glueing to provide a vapor barrier between the wood and glue. They were of the opinion that the heat of the iron would melt the shellac and bond it with the melting glue. I can't say for sure. In my case, I don't have an exact answer for what went wrong. Possible candidates are: !) me not knowing what in the hell I'm doing 2) used the wrong type of glue 3) the plywood substrate I used wasn't ruler flat, thus leaving voids the veneer never bonded to 4) the lack of the use of a "veneer hammer" to push the still heated veneer down into the plywood. I tried doing the same thing using a roller, but w/o success. I haven't given up on the idea, but I'm not going to build my speakers until I get this figured out as well. The Cueman just did a NICE veneer job, but he never responded to questions posted by myself or other members. Good Luck!

Bob, don't get me wrong I really like eBay. Problem is I spend waaaaay too much money there....soon to change though. As far as improvements, I think Bill is off to a good start. Customer accessablity is another issue. It's nearly impossible to find what you need to know, and even worse trying to contact a warm body. I know this is to control "costs", but they really don't want to hear from you. Paypal has the same issue. Right now they are about the only game in town. Given time this will surely change. No one stays on top forever. It looks like PayPal is finally getting some new competition, it'll be interesting to see how this shakes out. http://www.free-merchant.com/ Now if Google would just start an auction site....LOL!!

Marvel, Greg and I both have tried this method to different degrees of success. I for one would like to know the name brand of the glue and if he had any bubbling issues after he applied the finish coat and any other tips he may have to offer. I'm in a battle now (as we speak) with some veneer I've laid down as a border around my tile floor. It ironed down GREAT!!! ....or so I thought. Once I applied the first coat of finish I was in deeeeeeeeep doo doo. I've unsuccessfully gone over the problem areas so many times I'm about ready to whip out the pry bar and start over. As I told Greg, I did a sample piece prior and had no issues at all, so I'm kind of stumped. PO'd actually. BTW, Greg I just read another article where a woodworker uses a "veneer hammer" to press down the veneer as he passes the iron over. I've never seen one in catalogs. I tried using a roller, but it didn't help.

Re: No offense, but maybe that's why they're still in business and you're not. I don't know if it's your ignorance, or if you just like to argue or just like to ASSume things, but I sold my business. My point is I've been there. Have you? If not then you have no real life experience to draw on to make many of your postulations and assumptions do you? If you want to become a slave to something, then go open your own business...especially retail. You will quickly learn the true value of a customer. Businesses need customers more than customers need businesses. There is always someone else standing in line to take the place of the business that fails to satisfy its customer. Just where and why do you think the saying "The customer is always right" came from? It didn't come from alienating your customer base I can guarantee you that. Mind you I'm not equating Customers with Thieves or those who are consistantly looking for something for nothing. Ebay didn't start out with all of these fees. What they've done is slowly institute them over time. It's kind of like a frog. If you toss him in boiling water he'll jump out because of the pain. The pain here would be the excess fees, so eBay initally didn't slap them on to their customers for fear that they'd all leave. However if you take a frog and put him in cold water and slowly apply heat you can boil him alive. In effect this is what eBay is doing now.

AMEN Bill. I'm not buying it cost $25 for a return at a brick and mortar business. How do I know this? I've owned one.

So how much for the horns? I plan to build a set of speakers for my back porch and all that caulk might keep the salt from eating them. Actuallly I 'm thinking of using a pair of 811's and hitting them w/alodine. But if the price is right, a smaller horn would work! lol !