consistent

Hi, I have been building cables for years, have a lot of fun and satisfaction and found that Cardas & Nuetrik ends are good. Try parts conneXion http://www.partsconnexion.com (in Canada)very helpful bunch and carry some great stuff. Cheers

Hi and Welcome, All of the above (what everyone else says)! When I puchased my new Khorns there was a fair amount of room treatment I had to undertake to 'extend' the stage and smooth out some of the bass/mid flare & boom. I built my own bass traps and room treatments to a point where the room(unfortunately)looks ugly but the sound is simply stunning. When people come over to listen or watch a movie they just don't want to leave and I only have set up for two channel. The most important thing in experiencing sensational audio to experiencing audio is the room. Experiment (as long as you have an understanding partner) you'll be amazed. Good Luck.

Yep they still use monster which I have in my AK-4 Khorns, a little different though.

Fantastic Stuff! You wonder whether the 'art' of corner horn design is lost in today's world of mass production and 'quick fixes'.

I think it would be great idea if the 'top box' on the Khorn was capable of rotating (left/right) to accomodate a 'sweeter spot' in a smaller room. May need some tweaking to allow for the mid horn lens, but with Al's new trachorn it is a possibility! Thoughts?

Nice Work Al

Hi, The following are the specs, it's a home made, hope this helps: This auction is for the TWEAKER MK3, a Universal Single Ended amplifier using 6SL7 or 6SN7 driver valve and 6L6 or EL34 or KT66 or KT88 output valves and a GZ34 / 5AR4 rectifier valve. Hand crafted in Australia. Point-to-Point wired operating in class A with switch-able Triode / Ultra Linear pentode mode. It has 2 line level inputs giving up to 12 watts rms per channel output (KT88). The circuit is my own design, which I have been working towards the past 18 months. You can use a 6SL7 or 6SN7 (your choice) driver valve. Each channel uses one of the two triodes as a voltage amplifier. This is then capacitor coupled using audiophile grade paper in oil capacitors to the output tube configured in Single Ended ultra linear or Triode mode. The output tubes are easily biased by you the user, simply plug in the provided multimeter and adjust with the provided screwdriver. (See pictures, thats 600millivolt not 600 volts, quite harmless). No negative feedback is used. This should be testament to the circuit design, quality workmanship and parts used. Its made the way a tube amplifier should be, simple. Less components means less coloration of the sound. The power supply uses a GZ34 (5AR4) rectifier tube with capacitor and choke filtering. The advantages of a tube rectifier are less power supply noise and prolonged valve life as the HT voltage is gradually applied to the tubes as the heaters warm. The output transformers are the work of much research and testing by myself and friends, made right here in Australia. No mystery transformers hiding inside massive tin cans here. What you see is what you get! The frequency response in circuit is very good. These measurements are from THIS actual amplifier, with the KT66 and 6SL7 valves installed. Frequency response is very good from 22hz to 38khz. Hum is less than 1.5 millivolt on each channel. My speakers are 96db efficient and no noticeable hum can be heard from as little as 30cm from the speaker cones. Measured rms power output is: KT88. 12watts EL34. 8watts KT66. 9watts Hum 6L6gc 9watts KT88 = 2.5 millivolt. KT66 = 1.4 millivolt. 6L6gc = 1.0 millivolt. EL34 = 1.6 millivolt. All wiring is point-to-point using component leads where possible. Only good quality parts have been used. Micamold power supply cap, Elna cerafine bypass caps, paper in oil coupling caps. Ceramic valve sockets, gold plated rca sockets, 4mm speaker banana socket-binding posts. A volume pot is wired via a selector switch to the gold plated rca inputs so a pre-amp is not required (but can be used if desired). Around 0.7 volt is needed for full output. The amplifier uses one 6SN7 or 6SL7 driver valve (each channel using one of the two internal triodes), 2 KT88s, EL34s, KT66s or 6L6gcs output valves. The valves included with the amplifier are: a VERY rare old stock Sylvania 6SL7WGT military issue, a rare old stock Sylvania 6SN7 angle black plate, and a old stock Admiral USA made 6SN7. 2 Brand new Valve Art KT88s, 2 brand new Valve Art KT66s, 2 brand new Valve Art EL34's and 2 Very Rare USA JAN (joint army navy) Military brown base 6L6WGB's This valve line up alone is worth hundreds. All the old stock valves test very good on my AVO Mk1 valve tester. The chassis is French polished oak, with polished 2mm aluminium top plate and vented aluminium bottom plate. Included in this auction are: 1 New TWEAKER MK3 amplifier chassis. 2 New Valve Art EL34 valves. 2 USA JAN 6L6WGB valves 2 New Valve Art KT88 valves 2 New Valve Art KT66 valves 1 New Sovtek 5AR4 Rectifier valve 1 Sylvania angle black plate 6SN7 valve 1 Sylvania 6SL7WGT valve 1 Admiral (re-branded RCA) 6SN7 1 Valve display stand Comprehensive manual Circuit diagram. Multimeter for setting bias Screwdriver IEC mains lead. Thanks

Hi Again, Any body help?

Hi All, I am looking at adding a valve amp (SET)to my collection and would like to know what noise & hum levels are acceptable or should I say not very noticeable when driving Khorns. I understand the lower the mv rating the better but at what sacrifice, 300B'S, KT66'S, KT88'S and the list goes on. Thanks Guys.

Hi Guys, Edwin is right! Only last weekend did I put my Muse One Hundred Sixty SS up against another tube amp, this time a 2A3 giant killer (8w home made over spec tube amp weighing 22kgs). This 2A3 is fantastic but my mate (the builder) was astounded at how well the Muse stood up against the 2A3 with the KHORNS. The Muse does give you the 'warmth' of tube gear but has the 'punch' of an SS, it is highly A class biased. I have had a number of tube amps set-up in my room but I have still stuck with the Muse. By the way, I do use a high spec tube (6SN7) pre and that helps. I also use a Morrison ELAD SS pre but with the KHORNS, loses some of the mid warmth, but the Morrison pre lets in a BIG bottom end. One thing is for sure the cleaner the gear is up the line, the better the KHORNS sound!

Hi There, I agree with DeanG, the AK4 plus minor driver updates works better than I had expected. I can remember my older Klipsch models and the ringing and harshness at close to peak levels where the AK4 creates a sense of presence rather than not wanting to be in the room.

G'Day, I have a DVD 8 from Cyrus. This will change your ideas about a '2 in 1' box. It has all the hallmarks of a great DVD player whilst missing nothing in the audio stream.

Hi there and welcome, I have found that by putting some Tontine (poly foam that many pillows are made from) in the rear of top cavity of the Khorn (where mid and tweeter drivers are located)acts as damping for certain frequency 'bloom'. In my room I have found that I am getting better defininition in upper bass region and can hear the lower mids somewhat clearer. It's not for everyone but try it-nothing to lose! Certainly I can vouch that your Khorns much be tight against the wall. Cheers

G'day from downunder I have had tinnitus since I was 8. Apparently it came from a drug that was used instead of penicillin (I have an alergy to penicillin). It has now developed into a number of 'tones' and certainly wax, alcohol, stress and loud music makes it worse. However when I have my ears tested, every 2 years or so, my hearing has not deteriorated. In fact the 'quacks' consider my hearing better than most and I'm 48. I can still hear signals at around 19k! The problem is that you do notice it and there are devices that can be used to combat it as well as therapy. I believe there is an institution in Australia that has made some significant advances with the affliction, I'm trying to locate and find out what. Another interesting fact is that sometimes it just dissapears. Chin up and all the best.

Excellent work Eric, I friend of mine built a pre for me using 6SN7'S with a separate power supply. I changed a few resistors to metal film and put in balanced connectors alongside the RCA'S, unbeliveable difference in lower noise levels with greater clarity. When changing tubes I began to notice the differences. Well done.

Well done! I have been making my own cables for the last 3 years and have even been tempted to sell a few. I did keep some hi-end cables such as XLO,Cardas,Kimber,Yammamura etc to compare in my 'silly days' when I spent buckets on cables. People simply could not tell the difference. Now I use various types of copper, silver, teflon and use various configurations with some interesting results. I use Cardas solder (quad) which to me melts and cools better than anything else I have used. I am able to tell some subtle differences in most I build, all to do with inductance, capacitance and resistance and to test I use my family, a few techo mates and anybody I can grab walking by. It's good fun and if you let it suck you in you can spend hours playing. cheers

oh well... anyone else?

Hi, Was wondering if anyone knows about the Softone Model 1 Amp (Japan)that is no longer in production. It's about 6W per side using 2 x 2A3 and 2 x 6SJ7 with < 0.8mv noise & hum. Would love to hear from those with experience. Cheers

Thanks guys

Guys, Vinyl is not bad on my system but I think the problem lies in the 'lines'. I have built a number of isolation platters and I use squash balls to further isolate and now believe it must be RFI. On the rare occasion I get a radio signal through the speakers just after I turn everything off! Talk about 'The Ghost in the Machine'. I am not sure about RFI filters, what works and what doesn't. Some cost heaps and do nothing except restrict the dynamics in the signal path and others I wonder about, as I can't here the difference. I'm not a 'snake oil and beads' man and some of the claims made by these so called experts have me worried. Any body have some positive experiences with RFI treatment that works? Cheers.

Thanks Guys, I have isolated my digital gear (another socket and box) but you may be right, I still could have some RFI contamination. What could I further do to reduce RFI? Cheers

AFTER 75 HOURS WITH THE AK4 Hi All I thought some of you may be interested in my experiences with the new Klipschorn AK4 I took delivery of a couple of months ago. History I had been chasing a pair of well looked after Khorns for a while, having owned Heresys, La Scala and Forte IIs over the years. I did borrow a pair of Khorns in the mid 80s to see what they were like but my budget and wife said no at the time. Used Khorns in Australia are hard to come by and I didnt fancy spending lots on freight and packaging (most did not have original packs), so much to the disgust of my wife I went new! The Delivery There were a pair of Khorns that had my name on them (so the local dealer told me) at a price close to the US equivalent and were being shipped within 2 weeks, so I dived in feet first and put the deposit down. They arrived about 6 weeks after the order and the dealer brought them to my home with one of his assistants. We unpacked the 4 boxes and set up. They were unmarked without dimples or nicks and cuts but on further inspection we noticed that one of the mid horns had lost its nut and bolt that held up the horn to its bracing bracket. I later found both on the tweeter magnet. I also noticed that when looking behind the mesh into the bass bin, at the rear of the tailboard, the technicians had missed a couple of panels when drilling screws from the outside to hold the internal bracing in place, the incorrectly drilled screws split some of the internal brace boards. I was not particularly impressed; when you pay so much money you expect better quality. Klipsch had apologized and said it would not affect the sound quality. The last time the dealer heard Khorns was in 1968, his assistant had never heard them. After some alterations to my wiring configurations we cranked up and sat back. At first they sounded boomy and flat. I had not undertaken any room mods to house these Khorns and knew that I would need to enhance my room acoustics. After about an hour the Khorns and equipment started to kick in and the assistant brought out some heavy metal that blew the room apart (it didn't need to get loud). He had not heard bass and guitar work that sounded like the real thing in your face thump. They later left me to it! The Room The most important thing that anyone can do, to get better sound from their HiFi systems, is to make sure their room is acoustically truthful to your needs, desires and the recording. If not, any system not matter the price, will end up sounding like something that you are not prepared to live with, ever! My room is 13(W) x 16(L) x 8.5(H), not ideal but after some panels, drapes and absorbent treatments the room has come alive and the sound improved immensely. I use the short wall as the room also doubles as a theatre room where the screen sits. I have created some cylindrical panels over some sound absorbers and made some bass traps (floor to ceiling) at the rear of the listening area. I have also pulled back the drapes a touch that are used to cover the projector screen when not in use. I have noticed in this room that these Khorns perform better with more solid odd structures to bounce sound waves off and lots of traps. All walls are made of brick. I am still experimenting but I believe I am getting closer to the ideal sound where the sound is capable of extension beyond the speakers, in all directions, and still maintain a full believable stage. I am also able to tune the bass in or out by moving my chair forwards or backwards a few feet. Bass is awesome towards the rear of the room. The Sound I must say that when I first heard these they did not impress. After spending four hours they became better and as the weeks rolled on they improved as I improved the room. These speakers when driven with the right source material will impress to the point that most will feel the goose bumps. They are unforgiving. Feed them crap and you will get crap out! I have used both solid state and tubes and quite frankly believe that the AK4 has been voiced using solid state. They do have better extensions when using solid state. Female voices, guitar and piano stand out. Tubes will get you a better roll on the edges that some solid state cause and a warmer midrange, so why not keep both SS and Tube gear. I use a 6SN7 pre with an SS amp and this allows me the best of both worlds. However when I hook up my Morrison ELAD the sound has greater height and depth and yes the mids are thinner but not too noticeable. In good recordings instruments are well placed with intense detail and in silent passages, there is silence! The dynamics are what I expect from Klipsch, from a mosquitos fart to the roar of an elephant, its all there. Klipsch appear to have the Atlas mid and EV tweeter. The tweeter I believe is a Klipsch tweaked T-35 version using EV parts. The tweeter still has break-up and becomes edgy when pushed in full dynamic passages, although it appears to have a better extension that what I remember. Transients I think can be handled better, such as you would get from the hybrid tweeter that Mirage make or those of JBL. If you have a dead or dull room, dont expect much performance from it. Open up the room and the tweeters open up. The mid horn does not have any of the metallic sound that I remember, nor does the tweeter for that matter. If anything the sound is more wooded and closer to a tractrix sound (if thats possible!). There seems to be better matching with the tweeter and both offer more punch. The K-33, with the tailboard gasket, is tighter with strong extension into the lower octaves. If you had a big room these boys would perform down lower than most would expect. Overall I think the AK4 network has made the Klipschorn a more marketable product, coupled with what must be on the back of some minor improvements with the drivers. If Klipsch spent a little more time on the top end of the box and maybe considered a re-design you would have a speaker that could not be overlooked at any price. As it now stands run of the mill playback equipment is capable of offering performance plus, with wide dynamics, depth and clarity. The only problem is that most speaker manufacturers have missed this. Klipsch have always had it but just need to tweak their Heritage line a little more. The AK4 Klipschorn is a magic speaker and must be treated with respect. Be preared to 'work' your room. Let it live in the right environment and feed it the right stuff and you wont want for much else! Cheers! Footnote: The above is my interpretation, emotions and opinions using my equipment and room set-up and would obviously sound different in anothers environment using different equipment. I have used a number of my colleagues to also assess, some with Klipsch speakers, all have been impressed. The equipment I have used is a Morrison ELAD (pre-amp), hand built point to point 6SN7 (pre-amp) with separate power supply, Muse 160 amp, hand made tube amp utilizing Williamson circuits, Cyrus DVD 8 (24 bit dual DAC) with Cyrus PSXR power supply. All cables and interconnects are made by me using quality materials

Yes...it surprised me and took some of the shine off my new purchase!

HI HDBR, It sounds like you worked in the 'factory' for a while. I have just taken delivery of my new AK4 Khorns and I had a look behind the rear of the tailboard through the mesh, with the help of a torch, just to see what I could see of the internal cabinet work, without opening or touching anything. I was amazed to see a number of screws that missed some of the flat panels. The screws that were drilled in from the exterior missed the internal panel and lifted some of the wood. I know it can be hard lining up panels but should this sort of thing happen today? Klipsch said it should not cause any deterioration of the bottom end. What are your thoughts?

Hey Trey, Can you send me any links or info you may have for Khorns. I have CARA but it really doesn't do alot for corner placements. By the way CARA does take some time to understand but once you have the knowledge their programs do work well. It uses CAD to design your room with a selection of materials to use and various types of speakers but alas no horns!