consistent

Thanks Gil, I couldn't see the 'wood for the trees'

Hi Guys, I am pondering a build of either a Cornwall or Chorus and was wondering if anyone has plans or an idea of cubic feet of the boxes for optimising the woofer. I know the Corns use a slot with a K33 and the Chorus a passive with a 15" woofer (probably no longer available) so it also begs the question has anyone attempted a 'Cornus' ! PWK use to liken the Chorus to the Cornwall and the Forte to the Heresy but with a little more bottom end octave. Ideas, plans and thoughts would be greatly appreciated and I think I will enventually turn to Al K and Bob for networks and drivers. Cheers

Hi, Tuck them tighly in the corners as other suggest then find some way of rotating the 'top hat' (mid and tweet) to your listening position. It can get ugly but boy does the sound improve! Even better if you move up to a tractrix. Good luck

Hi, I agree that the K77 is best in the vertical. I have done significant testing with the K77 F and Bob's replacement tweeter. The K77 is superior in the vertical while Bob's is marginally better both directly above the squawker (whatever you use) aimed at you and not on either side of the squawker. I have built my system around a tractrix top hat aimed at the listening position and the khorn bottoms snug in the corner underneath. Cheers

Hi, The K55 had a habit of blowing diaphragms - if it is in the upper reaches of a piano. Stick you head against the speaker that is giving you the problem and try to determine which driver may be at fault. If both speakers are casuing you a problem then I would suggest trying different CD players, amps or pre-amps. Good luck

The chorus is a 'bigger' version of the forte (15" v 12"). The specs are measured for a certain spl as the chorus is slightly more efficient, it will get down to 32hz in the right room for a given spl. Cheers

Hi, I use the 288 16k and built my own tractrix horn...WOW! You may need to 'fiddle' with cross points or play with the 'time relationship' of drivers to seating position. To beat the odds I set up 2 amps and pres, one to drive the bottom end and the other to drive the 288 and Bob Crites tweet (replaced the K77). I found that the 288 had more 'overhang' with the bottom end than it did with the Crites tweet. If you get really good you could just use the 288 and the woofer. The 288 will go from 400 (500 more easily) to 17.5k with the right horn and cross. Good luck

Here u go! This is truly a little wonder, talk to Tim Stinson, he occasional puts the Axiom pre on ebay. If you want purity,clarity and all that, the Axiom pre is it! http://luminousaudio.com/axiomrca.php

Hi, go to ebay and put into their search engine 'teflon' or 'teflon tubing', you will have lots of things to choose from or choose Parts Connexion (in Canada) http://www.partsconnexion.com/ they have lots of things for the DIYer. Cheers

You may find that the pre-amp match may not be compatible to a particular amp or vice versa. In my view the pre-amp or lack of makes the biggest difference. What may sound better to your ears initially may not be in the long run. Always good to have a mixture of amps you can play with, that way the ears/brain never gets bored...nor do you! Cheers

Hi, I think you would need to discover your room dimensions and where you are seated as well as the 'palyback' of the room and as Arrto said there is not much you can do with the way a recording has been made but there is lots that affect how you hear it. I have been listening to speakers and building systems for the past 32 years and the Khorn gives it you you as close to a live perfomance of a recording as you will ever get, warts and all. Anyhow I have fallen in love with battery powered amps, they have the speed and clarity of a SS but the sublimeness of tube. Have you ever considered it may be your pre? I generally use a tube pre with a SS amp, best of both worlds. I have also got a few other amps but the best I have ever heard (110v/240v) is from Nelson Pass. try http://www.mother-of-tone.com/byob.htm Cheers

Hi there, Here is a good test: take your existing power cables and move them or shield them (copper) as far away as possible from your interconnects and speaker cables. When doing so with power cables do not have them running parallel to each other, if you have to cross them at any stage try a right angle crossing when ever you can. Lift your speaker cables and interconnects off the ground, particularly if you have fabric/material that is able to generate voltage from friction (carpet zap). Sit back an see if you notice any difference when you listen to the same things again. May be best if you first turn everything off but if you can handle it, leave everything on. If you notice a difference you have discovered what new cables or better power cables do. Generally you make way for these new toys and try a different set-up which often means you change the original set-up of all your old cables. If you don't notice a difference then the probabilty that anything added will make a difference (other than a power conditioner) is slim! Big money saving too! Cheers

Yep, when you consider the amount of copper and other metals as well as their dielectrics in ciruit boards through to speaker drivers the shortest path is the best and if you stick something in between all this stuff that destroys or weakens these links you may as well listen to a transistor radio. Or better still drink wine and make love (while listening to the 'love channel' on the radio)!

What I make

That's the ticket Bob. I see you have an old 55 in there with those coat hangers what 55 is your favourite? Cheers

InVeNtOR amen to shorter cables...I think this has a lot to do with what comes out...for the better and yes the dielectric is a key to a good cable

Yep, drop in replacement, screw job. The K-55X is the PD-5VH. Check out the washer make sure that is ok. Bob also sells those Cheers

So let's all be honest 'hear'. What do you all use for cables? I make twisted pairs of solid core (1mm) high quality copper conductors highly cleaned in teflon (2 per channel) with Eichmann ends and soldered using Cardas quad. I use similar for speakers but 7 solid core conductors for each channel. I have also done the cat 5 thing with great results after removing the outer casing. Thanks to those that have given us examples. Anybody else for a 'show and tell'? AND why use what you use? Me; becuase its cheap, it works better than anything I have ever used and because 'I did it'! Cheers

So those of you who believe nothing is happening (as known science and current thinking is able to deomonstrate) what sort of cabes do you use...or are they just tinned coat hangers?

Schults really doesn't add much to the debate and fuddles around but I do understand it is complex.I'm with djk, something is going on when you get it right eventhough no measurement yet has discovered what. When I starting making interconnects (generally fooling around -no science, just ears) I started to research what was out there. I had produced no less than 32 combinations of copper, brass, rhondium, silver, gold with numerous dielectrics using blind testing (no alcohol or drugs to spur my 'testers' on). I remember one test where 4 out of 5 times people 'heard' a particular cable I made which towered above all else no matter what I added into the A/B mix. Music was just simply clearer with extended top/bottom response, at least to our ears. However no measurement could differentiate. 'Snake oil', I don't think so. I had spent alot of money over the years on cables that really sucked me in, now that was 'snake oil'. Everything has gone, now I just use my 'kitchen cables' and I'm a very happy boy - if it is BS to some so be it; but something is going on! Cheers

Hi I have been making, tesing and selling cables for over 5 years now and have found that twisted pairs of solid core high quality copper cable in high quality teflon create an uncluttered reception. This combination let's your equipment do what it is suppose to do...like it or not.Yes it is subjective and most say there is no difference from using a coat hanger or a cable that's cost is in the thousands. The trick (as indicated in the video) is the connection at either end of the cable.Copper simple works best and when it is treated properly its oxidisation is slowed so you get more out of a connection. The trouble is that 'snake oil' has been added over the years and most of the time the buyer hasn't a clue waht they a getting thinking that the more they pay the better. If we could only cut out the BS things would be much more simpler but BS is a big part of retail and it will never die! Cheers

Hi There, I had a pair of '92 Fortes for 5 years (among many other Klipsch speakers) and eventually went to a pair of new Khorns and have never looked back. I have put them on the short wall, in solid corners in my theatre room about 12' apart and the long is about 16' with 9' ceilings. I have extensive room treatments which is a must with Khorns in any room. What you will get above the Forte is greater integration of the drivers, at ear level, deeper and more powerful bass, better L to R imagery and in the right listening position you can get very good front to back imagery. When you get game (do this if you buy used) take off the 'top hat' do some mods to the tweeter (vertical) and mid so that they are positioned directly to your listening area, keep the woofer cabinet well sealed in the corner and you will reach another level with these babies. Cheers

Hi yes they are great amps and pres I had a couple over the years but they went bust and disappeared. Have a look at http://www.mother-of-tone.com/byob.htm. I have the BYOB amp and this thing is a solid performer with Khorns. Cheers

Ortofon LM30 or 40 or the OM30 or 40...you will never look back. Detailed with a great full midrange. The Garrott P77 is another in this league

Kenwood KD500 (heavy mother from the 80's) comes with ability to stick in different arms. Get a good arm and you are laughing. Put some 1/2 cut squash ( I think you call them racket balls) under each leg and you have a $400 turnable with arm that anything under $1,000 would be hard to beat. Good luck