Coytee

I must say they sound (to me) pretty balanced. However with that said, the Khorns don't seem to "flap the seam in my pants" as I've heard others say, nor as I seem to recall from when I first ever heard them 25 years ago I DO realize the room has had nothing done to it in the way of trying to optimize their sound and as such, I feared these 'gaps' might be bleeding some of the low frequencies off, rather than slamming them into the listener. I listened to my Academies last night hooked up to 65 watts and A/B'd them with the Khorns hooked up to the Wright 2A3's Interesting differences in sound. The Academies seemed to fill in some bass that didn't SEEM to be there with the Khorns but when I turned the Academies off and listened strictly to the Khorns, they (Khorns) seemed far more natural in their sound. I still felt more punch when I had all 4 of them going together. Not saying anything good/bad here, just reporting my tinkering

---------------- I wouldn't waste money on anything like a McIntosh for something that your just going to be using to blast through Aunt Jemima's log cabin. I mean, nothing is going to sound good in that situation. Why not just get some cheap power amp? Sorry, I guess that's not your question but I couldn't help but wonder. ---------------- There are times that I want to thump it while I'm in there too. I will use the 2A3 for "sipping tea" and listening to some nice stuff with wife/company. I might use the other (what ever it is) when I'm alone and want to sip something stronger and/or, be able to turn it up to ear splitting levels (in the room) while I'm OUT of the room doing other things listening to it. It will NOT be exclusively used when I'm outside the house, just moreso when the wife is not around.

Whoo hoo Oops, sorry Dr. Who, didn't mean to trod on your name I feared I'd get negative responses and (thusfar) batting 1,000

What might a MC2105 sound like relative to a MC275? What I'm kind of looking for is, will it be shrill for a Khorn when mated to a Peach? Will it have the thumping bass since it's solid state (or so I think it is) Is it a quiet amp? Is SS Mac gear just as lovely with Khorns as tube stuff? Realize this, I have a 2A3 for easy listening but want something with more HP so I can crank it up while i'm working outside & still want to hear it through my 6" thick logs (via using a A/B switch) I'm realizing my Jolida has a LOT more noise in it than the Peach/Wrights do so I'm looking at getting something to perhaps replace it. While I'm doing the replacing I'm thinking I'd like to get something that will play loud, strong and with good bass authority (as I seem to recall that SS based systems will do more thumping than similar sized tube amps?) So I'm looking for opinions on the solid state Mac stuff.

---------------- On 7/13/2005 11:32:38 AM Amy Unger wrote: This is NOT gray market activity but an inventory liquidation step by us to the Top Warehouse chain in the <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />US. This was done to address discontinued products, and we chose the best partner in a new category to for end of life products. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> The usual warranty applies. ---------------- Amy...can you put that in writing? Hmmm... uh... never mind

I'd never watch diatribe like that... sooooo, when is it on & what station?

The stepped wall might be an inaccurate description. I have a log house. The logs are square cut 6"x12" (12" tall) I think they are dimensionally 5 1/2 x 11 1/2 (irrelevant if they are a bit different for the sake of this question) IN BETWEEN the logs are standard 4x4's which are 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches. Meaning, I have an approximate 1/2" "gap" every 12" on the logs where the 4x4's are located (and are inset). make sense so far? gonna try to draw picture [ <-(the two of those represents ONE log) [ / <-(this single piece represents the smaller inset 4x4) [ [ / [ [ If the spacing worked, the "[" markes represent a SINGLE log and the "/" mark, represents the inset 4x4. This is looking at the wall from the END view of it and the Khorns would be a straight, verticle line on the LEFT side of the setup, meaning, where the "/" markes are, you have about a 1/2" deep, 3 1/2" tall "inset" where the Khorn isn't "tight" agaisnt the wall. Indeed, it's not against anything at those spaces. These gaps are on both sides of each speaker going from the floor to the ceiling of my room. Any thought if those gaps, small as they are, might prevent some bass response?

Rosewood The first pair I ever saw in my life was Rosewood and I fell in love with their look as much as sound. I'd LOVE to have a pair myself.

How do you digest this rating of efficiency? Is this an accurate way to represent efficiency or as I seem to recall some comments, is this just using a narrow band since it speaks of midband and high frequency SPLs? And furthermore, what does the (10ms) mean? Microseconds of duration? ___________________________________________________________ Recommended Amplifier power: 1.5 watts per ch minimum / 500 watts maximum Sound Pressure Level: 97 db average 100 db peak with a 1.5 watt amplifier; 115 db average, 125db peak (10ms) with a 500 watt amplifier Mid-band Sound Pressure Levels in a Typical Listening room: 90 db average, 100 db peak with a 1.5 watt amplifier: 115 average, 125 db peak (10 ms) with a 500 watt amplifier. Maximum High Frequency Sound Pressure Level in a Typical Listening Room (10,000 Hz): 103 db long-term average Mid-band Power Capacity: 50 watts long-term average: 500 watts peak (10ms)

If you were toying around with amp swapping (as contrasted with wife ) are there any major differences between a brand new McIntosh MC 275 verses an old one? (forget about price for sake of conversation) Actually, no... let's not forget about price since I have no idea of what they go for. I presume they sell for $3,500 - $5,000 ? (just a guess) I was told that the new MC's have differnt placements of pc board and as such are more quiet, more reliable blah blah blah... AFter hearing how quiet my Peach plays with the Wrights, the Jolida seems kinda noisey. So I'm contemplating replacing it. Figure hard to go wrong with McIntosh? Deep inside me, I'm rather drawn to the McIntosh MC 2102. The guy at McIntosh told me that the MC 275 was "the perfect match" for a pair of Khorns. He went on to say that the MC2102 was just a prettied up MC 275 with a bit more power & different boxing (and a lot more $$). His choice was the 275.

I WAS toying with the idea of 7 Khorns all the way around. Front two in corners, rear two in corners front center in a "V" notch built into wall as with the other surrounds.

Well Mark... I guess I just got dumb ears. I turned up volume today & tried to do a A/B (High/Low) multiple times and if there were a $50 wager on the sound being different to my ears, I'd lost that bet every time. I DO appreciate your commentary as to what you hear. That is what I'm trying to listen for. If it were to matter and I doubt it would, the signal path is CD player to a splitter. The splitter feeds the Jolida AND the Peach. So, From CD via splitter to the Peach and from the Peach to the Wrights. After the Wrights comes a Niles A/B switchbox and the Khorns are plumbed directly into the Niles. Guess I'm worrying about it too much but I'm just one of those that if it's blue/gray...then I want to see that it's blue/gray and not some other mixture.

The wife has been jabbering (hope she doesn't read that ) about building a new house... I said if we DO build a new house, then the "media room" is going to be designed from scratch and I might want to put a 7.1 Khorn system in there. She of course, rolls her eyes since she thinks my current 2 Khorns are "hideous" to use her word so seven of them would be seven times as hideous. So, that said, if you are going to the architect and want to tell him to START with this room what would the best dimensions be? My thinking is making the walls (guessing here) about 18" thick so that I could bury the center and side channels into the non corner walls and just have the front "non corner" part of them sticking out into the room. We could put bathroom/laundry room, hallway or a variety of other rooms next to this room to help isolate it from the rest of house. ok, so that said, what size would you make it? For the sake of this conversation (if anyone converses ) focus more on proper dimensions as a priority rather than cost.

I'll pick "A" only because "A" seems to be getting the bulk of the votes. Perhaps if I were there, I'd picked "A" anyway, so my vote doesn't really matter.

Not that it matters for purposes of this discussion, but I think I've had it backwards given what you just said. I've thought the low setting was the "regular" mode and provided the shortest signal path. I further thought the "high" mode was the higher OOMPH mode to use when you have the long cables. I would have thought the low mode provided the shortest signal path because of the "low" signal hence, not much in the way of signal. Given what you say about the single tube and my just now reading JM's site, I think I've had the high/low switch backward as far as my thinking of what was going on behind the scenes. Again, it doesn't really change the logic of this thread, just an admission that I'm more clueless than I'd previously thought Perhaps I ought to read the manual someday

---------------- On 7/7/2005 10:12:12 AM cjgeraci wrote: I'm afraid I would have to disagree with Daddy on this one. I think the difference is fairly dramatic between the two modes and becomes even more apparent the higher the quality of NOS tube you run in the single slot. To my ears, the high BB mode provides more extension in the upper frequencies versus the super loz mode. Also, sounds.....more dynamic and detailed to me. Almost as if a blanket or cover is lifted off of the speakers (vs. the low mode), and I would use the analogy of hearing freshened crossovers (vs. older, original ones). There is also a reduction in volume in the super loz mode that may not interest some running lowered-powered tube amps (when you get to higher decibel levels). Don't get me wrong, I have achieved some very favorable results with the Super Loz mode and currently run two Siemens CCas there right now. And, after all, it comes down to personal audible preferences. But, I can hear a substantial difference between the two modes. Carl. ---------------- Would it be fair for me to conclude you might suggest I try to listen to it at a higher SPL to try to notice any effects? Thus far, I have only used lower volume when flipping back/forth and have heard no real difference, ESPECIALLY, as you say a "substantial" difference. I'm using stock tubes as received from Mark.

Tks DD. I must say I'm a bit relieved to hear that I might not be alone.

I've never claimed to have golden ears, so with that as my preface, just exactly what might one want to listen for between the two settings? I seem to recall reading that it's a "distinct" difference, though perhaps subtle. If that's the case, then I'm embarassed to say that the couple times I've switched it back/forth, I've never heard anything "distinctly" different. Quite frankly, I've never heard anything different at all, not even subtly. I've wondered if I'm even listening for the "right" thing so that I CAN discern the difference. I just like to know what does what (in other words, I'm being anal about this)

I suppose a grinding wheel is outta the question? hmm.. The FIRST thing that came to my mind was "Goof off" but I don't know if that would do anything to the finish. (I've done it now... you're gonna take the grinding wheel to your 'crappy' amp before you send it to me, aren't ya... huh?)

Al, My understanding is the extreme slope networks show a consistent impedence to a Khorn? If the above is (semi) accurate, is it better to use the 4 or 8 ohm or does it REALLY matter?

Cool answers & not what I was expecting!! Guess I'll have to tinker too. & tks Daddy Dee..., don't forget about me when you decide you want to get rid of your other 'crappy' amp

I realize I should use the 8 ohm setup on the Wrights I recently acquired so this is just a question for theory. What would happen mechanically and sound wise if I switched the connection from 8 ohms to 4 or 16? (Wright 2A3's on Khorns)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=37975&item=7332070026&rd=1&tc=photo *************************************** Consigned item. This elaborate, church-sized pipe organ is featured in a 5100 square foot arts and crafts style residential home. The consignor is in the process of restoring the entire home to make it ready for resale and is selling the organ to make room for a library. Research indicates that the original owner, an accomplished musician who owned a piano business located in Cleveland, Ohio, designed and built this house in 1903 to accommodate this organ within its own room which is 15' x 15' x 12' deep. The organ, which can be seen when first walking in the front door, is located on a spacious stairwell landing leading to the second floor. This organ has been in its original footprint for over 100 years and has never been moved. It is all original and is noted on the 1903 deed for this property. The organ was professionally built/installed and is consistent with other organs of that period in construction and design. There is no manufacturer's nameplate nor serial number on this instrument. The pneumatic assist mechanisms have glass inspection plates instead of wooden covers which probably served for viewing the instrument during demonstrations or recitals. The organ does play, but it needs extensive work and repair as can be seen in the photos below. Although an electric air motor (wind machine) was installed at a later time (a guess would be the early 1930's since the house was rewired about the same time), the original bellows pump handle is still mounted and intact. The initials "FDR" or "FDK" are heavily penciled on one of the organs wood structures and the initials are about 4" in height. The organ has characteristics of Farrand Votey and the wood used on the case and facade appears to be solid walnut. The pipes are made of tin, lead and wood. The principal pipes have painted stenciled designs on them and they are quite impressive. This spectacular organ is one-of-a-kind. It would be perfect for a Church or large home that can accommodate its size. See photos. The following information contained herein was derived from sources believed to be correct. Physical Characteristics: This organ was inspected by an organ company this year. While being inspected, a comment was made that the tracker mechanism on this organ is usually only found on large European church organs. They had never seen this tracker mechanism on a smaller type church or residential organ such as this one. Tracker Type pipe Organ with Pneumatic Assist 18 Ranks of pipes - total of 1036 pipes (one of the pipes is stamped "Campbell") Principal is 41 Scale Console has 23 Stops, 30 Pedals, 43 Large Decorative (Principal) Pipes Console has 2 Keyboards with 61 notes each Electric Air (wind) Motor, housed in its original cabinet. Nameplate on motor cabinet reads "Votteler, Holtkamp, Sparling Organ Company, Cleveland, Ohio". Manufacturer's Plate on Motor reads "Century Electric Co. of St. Louis, MO., Patented January 3,1903 / December 29, l914 / October 19,1915." 1750 RPM with serial number 189776. Disposition: Left Side (probably swell) 8 Stopped Diapason 8 Salicional 16 Bourdon Treble 16 Bourdon Bass 8 Oboe Gamba 4 Violina 4 Flute Damour 8 Violin Diapason Left Side (Pedal) 8 Pedal Cello 16 Pedal Bourdon Bellows Signal Tremolo Right Side (probably Great) 8 Dulciana 8 Melodia 4 Gemshorn 8 Open Diapason 8 Trumpet 2 Super Octave 4 Wald Floete 4 Principal Right Side (couplers) Swell to Great Great to Pedal (missing nameplate) Swell to Pedal Condition: The organ needs extensive work but it is still playable. Most of the ivory keys and stops stick. Inspection is strongly suggested. The case and facade's wood is in beautiful condition as the photos will show. The Century motor (wind machine) starts up fine and provides air for the pipes. It is located in the basement. Terms of sale: We are a consignment company and not the owner of the organ. All information contained in this listing was derived from sources believed to be correct. As with any large purchase, we encourage all prospective bidders to view and inspect the item prior to placing your bid. Your bid will still be accepted if inspection is waived as long as you understand that this item is being sold in an "as-is" condition with no warrantees or guarantees expressed or implied. If you or your agent would like to view this item, please email us for an appointment. The organ is located in Lakewood, Ohio which is about 10 miles west of downtown Cleveland, or just 35 minutes from Cleveland Hopkins airport (public transportation available by Rapid Transit). Please email us with any questions you may have prior to placing your bid. Please do not bid on this item unless you are serious about purchasing this item. Payment terms: Payment in full must be made within 7 (seven) days after the ending date of the auction and is payable in U.S. funds by either a certified bank check made payable to PALS AUCTIONS, or bank wire transfer. We do not accept Paypal. International buyers are welcome provided payment in full is made in U.S. funds. Shipping and Moving: High bidder agrees to arrange for moving, dismantling and shipping arrangements. We will assist with moving arrangements as much as we can, however, it will be the buyer's responsibility to move this organ. The organ is located 20' from the front door and there are five steps down to the foyer, then some steps out the front door to the street. A photo of the house is provided so you can get a good idea of what's involved. The organ must be removed from the premises within 45-days from the ending date of the auction unless other arrangements have been made by you and the consignor. Attention Best Offer buyers: please do not wait until the last day of the auction to present your offer. We are not always available to check our email and respond. Feel free to call us at 330-760-PALS (7257) at any time. To view our other items for sale on eBay this week, Click here.

---------------- I do enhance my Satellite Audio signals though using some DBX processing - man what a difference. ---------------- I hear that dbx stuff is cruddy ... perhaps that's why love it so much myself.

I hope I didn't just order the last version before the "new & improved" models make their debut...