chops

Me thinks me stick with my quad 15" dipoles!

If you want some truely musical bass that is perfectly fitting for both music and movies, I strongly suggest that you consider building a pair of these. Check out the link below........ http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14179 This is a thread I started almost a year ago. I have learned alot from that little project and can honestly say that these are the best sounding subs I have ever heard, and I have listened to lots and lots of subs over the years. It would be a good idea to read the whole thing sometime when you're bored. And here's a link right to my website with even more pictures of the subs..... http://chops.tzo.com/index.htm

I'm using a Yamaha RX-V740 for my system. However, it's only being used as a pre-amp for my main channels, which goes to an AudioControl RitcherScale x-over, then to my 2004 Mk II, all connected with MagWire Naked ICs. Before the Yamaha, I had a Harmon/Kardon AVR-55 reciever. That one sounded good, but the RX-V740 sounds much better. Apparently, Yamaha "trickles down" the technology from their hi-end recievers into their lower priced ones like mine. So basically, they are all pretty much the same as the RX-Z series but stripped down and less beefie power supplies. I'm only using the front and rear center channel amps, and the two rear surround channel amps on mine, so I'm not too concerned about the amplifier section that much. It sounds good durring movies and very, very good while playing SACDs, but I mainly listen to good old regular 2-channel stereo recordings!

If I could I would. That would be a perfect upgrade from my KG 3.2!!

Aren't those Halcro amps all Class D? They are supposed to be the best thing going right now. I don't know.... I still like my 2004 Mk II.

---------------- On 4/25/2004 7:50:23 AM paulparrot wrote: There is no accounting for taste. I heard Janet Jackson sing for the first time recently, and was amazed at how weak her voice is. ---------------- You know, not all women have that huge battleaxe opera voice.

The Technics SA-5270 was rated at 35 watts p/c. I still have an old SA-5170 which is rated at 25 watts p/c. This reciever was originally bought by "jt1stcav", my bro, brand new years ago, I think around 1977 or 1978. Once it was given to me in the mid 1980's, I started playing around with old raw driver laying around the house,(most of which were already blown!). They were both home and car speakers, and I would just hook them up to that reciever. Now remember, I was only 9 or 10 years old then and didn't exactly know what I was doing. Anyway, I just had those various drivers sitting on a couple shelves free-air, at who know's what impedance, and that reciever never gave up on me. Sure, I blew quite a few speaker fuses on it, but that's it. Hell for all I know, I could have been running that poor little thing into a 0.5 ohm load or something!! Ask my bro about it sometime, he'll tell you the crazy stuff I used to do with that thing! Oh yeah, and the point behind this whole post of mine was to tell what the output power was of these recievers and how durable they are!

I'm using an Aragon 2004 Mk II for my KG 3.2s. This is just a very clean and smooth sounding amp with excellent imaging and soundstaging capabilities most likely due to it's dual mono design, and only 100 watts p/c @ 8 ohms. One other thing I love about this amp is the way it looks. It has that huge "V" groove going down the right side of it on the top, and the super thick front panal. Also, this thing runs extremely cool at all times!

---------------- On 4/23/2004 5:45:53 PM NOSValves wrote: (need to figure out how to turn the flash off on the new camera sorry) ---------------- I haven't read the rest of this thread past this post, but if you haven't figured it out yet I can help.... First off, you have to switch the A60 over to "Program" mode, which would be the big "P" on the Mode Dial on top of the camera. If you leave it in the green "AUTO" mode, you will not have control over it and the flash will fire when needed. Then, see that button on the back of the camera right below the shoot/play mode switch? It's the one with the little lightening bolt next to it. Just keep pressing that button until you get the flash to where you want it. Hopefully this will help you if you're still having problems with the flash.

---------------- On 4/24/2004 6:55:06 PM jt1stcav wrote: I might have some tube steaks tonight for dinner, but I won't go around sniffing 'em! Hot dogs, gentlemen...hot dogs! ---------------- Yeah, right... That would explain the dirty knees on your pants the other day!

---------------- On 4/23/2004 10:28:27 AM bclarke421 wrote: If that doesn't work, try borrowing your brother's 300B amp. Oh that's right, it's on a slow boat from China! ---------------- Isn't THAT the truth! LOL

Just wondering..... Who was the first to come out with that V-twin sound? Indian?

However, I would not recommend any of the Mac amps without the output transformers like that MC7200. That thing absolutely sucked with the Cornwalls. It was vary harsh and thin sounding. The MC250 and MC2100 amps were much, much better sounding. I would even venture to say they were a perfect match, or any of the vintage Mac gear for that matter.

I used to run a pair of '79 Corns with a Mac MC250. It sounded pretty darn good. Then after hooking the Corns up to the 4 ohm taps, it got even better! That was the most "tube-like" SS amp I ever heard, mainly due to the output transformers. If you decide to go with a Mac SS integrated, make sure it has those output transformers. Those are the key to getting that great tube sound to your Corns.

---------------- On 4/22/2004 9:11:27 PM mark1101 wrote: Good comment. The Heritage series ARE somewhat like what Harley Davidson has created. A fine and adequate product all on its own. However, it is also a platform that lends itself to modification and personalization. The cool part of the Heritage series is having the authenticity and originality as a starting point. For me, stock has always been fine. I have enjoyed all of the authentic pairs of Heritage speakers I have owned over the years, and the unknown history but assured enjoyment each pair has brought to me as a successive owner. Mr. Shinall sounds like a talented craftsman who can deliver an authentic clone that represents a huge $$ savings for a nice appearance. However, the lack of PWK authenticity may play a role to some who might rather have an older pair and a piece of history. ---------------- The same thing goes for Harley Davidson "cloning". Look at what Yamaha and Kawasaki is doing. They both have bikes that look and sound just like Harleys, and for less. I don't hear of anybody or Harley Davidson making a big-to-do about that.

Heck, if my woodworking skills were that good, I would try doing the same thing. Maybe I would change the visual design of it a bit, but keep the same concept behind it.

My favorite part was where he said, "I really don't care what I get for it, as the sight of it gives me the farts." I just thought that was funny!

I guess I should have mentioned this before, but I'm not running the KG 3.2's fullrange. They are crossed over at 90Hz to a pair of DIY dual 15" dipole subwoofers. So getting more bass from them is not a concern. And if I were to place them on the floor in the corners, they would be sitting behind my subs. LOL If you want to see a pic of my system, check out my "System Profile". MAybe that will give you a good idea what I'm dealing with. Oh yeah, I have been sitting here listening to these Klipsch's with the grills on and toed further out. I have to admit, it's a great improvement so far. I'll play around some more with placement and toe-in as the night goes on.

Say, since you have a pair of the Shinall XT200'S, why not post up some pics of the internals? And if possible, could you also post a pic of the specs in the owners manual? I think I speak for everyone here when I say it would be interesting to see the goods!

Actually, the Kimber 8TC is all copper, 9 gauge copper to be exact. As for placement, it is not finalized but.... Right now I have them mounted on 17" stands, with the grills in place, and toed in just a tad. I was wondering if upgrading the internal wiring, or crossover, or both would do the trick at calming these tweeters down some. Any suggestions?

It's a shame there's no one around my area like that. I can't fine a single person who's into hifi or considered an audiophile around here. Oh well, guess I'll just have to go listen to my own system.

I just aquired these speakers from my other brother a few days ago. They sound great except for the fact they are bright as hell. Are there any tips or tricks on knocking the tweeter down some? I'm going to pop the grills on later today when I get home from work to see if that helps some, but I doubt it will. I'm using KimberKable 8TC speaker cables from my Aragon to the Klipsch's. Are those cables known for being overly bright at all? They always sounded fine on my other speakers, but maybe the KG 3.2's are more picky on the cables you use. Any help will be appreciated!

Hi, I'm "jt1stcav"'s little bro that has the Aragon 2004 MK II amp. I used to have a Carver PM700 pro amp that I used with my DIY 18" Klipsch sub and a 15" DIY sub. That amp had loads of power for both, had great control over both, and sounded very good. In fact, while running a test tone through the Klipsch sub, the voice coil started smelling like burning muffins!! LOL Needless to say, that sub was shot. Anyway..... I used to have a Carver TFM-35x that I powered a pair of Maggie MGLR-1's, a pair of Infinity Kappa 6's, and a couple pairs of AR towers (AR11 and AR9). That amp never gave me any problems, always sounded good, and also had plenty of power for any speaker. This amp was also supposed to have that "tube" sound, but I didn't think so. I am still using an old M400t running at 4 ohms for my DIY dipole subs. You can read all about it here... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14179 For this, the amp is perfect! Since these subs have a combined efficiency of about 106dB @ 1 watt, this amp never works hard or gets hot. However, I don't think I would ever consider using it for my main speakers. As long as I have ever listened to this amp, it has always had a quiet but audiable "buzz" coming through the tweeters. That's why I now use it for sub duties only. You can not here it at all coming from the subs, even with your face right in front of the cones! But if you're looking for an excellent main channels amp, I would suggest going with an older Aragon amp like my 2004 MK II. It may only be rated at 100 watts p/c @ 8 ohms, but it's one of the best sounding amps I have ever heard. And believe me, I have heard lots and lots of them ranging from $2k McIntosh's up to $10k Mark Levinson mono blocks. Of course, I'm 100% sure those amps have a hell of a lot more slam than mine, but I'm only running mine crossed over at 90Hz and up to a pair of Klipsch KG 3.2's. It is a dual mono design and you can hear a difference between it and a regualr stereo amp. Much better detail, soundstaging, imaging, and clearity can be had with this amp!