CECAA850

If they're like the rest of the Reference series, you can take the jumpers off and bi-wire or bi-amp them. You can use either set of terminals to hook your wires to as long as the straps are in place.

This will be hard to beat if you have some woodworking skills. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/717845.aspx

Still looks awesome for the ching. What kind of pre-assembled units do you think it will be comperable to?

Those Ascendand drivers are pretty impressive for the price. I bought 2 of the Arsenals when they could be had at the preorder price. My son and I built a box for them and stuck them in his van. They totally blow away some of his friends "name brand" subs. Ascendant conservatively rates their drivers so don't be afraid to give them their fair share of current.

Don't be ridiculous. It's Kathy.[*-)]

Have you read this thread? http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/686446.aspx

This should get you in for under $200.00. Bear in mind that any sub under $250.00 will be taxed for movie soundtracks in all but the smallest of rooms. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-635

I think Howard Stern had a butterface or butterhead contest one time. He took 10 contestants and walked them across the stage one by one. They had a screen across the top where all you could see was from the neck down. They each received a score from 1 to 10 (10 being the best) for their body. The second walk across the stage had their bodies blocked off so that all you could see was their heads. They were then rated 1 to 10 again, just on facial looks. They then subtracted the score of the contestants head from the score of their body. The winner was the one with the largest difference. Only at the end could you see the head and body together. It was absolutely a riot.

You could try the distance setting for your sub in your receivers set up screen as a way to adjust it, if your receiver has that option.

Hoo neads it?

Too bad they're gone, a 99 cent resistor (from parts express) installed on the HF board would have tamed the harshness and saved you an expensive upgrade.

.......maybe you would like to elaborate just a little bit on this comment. My attempt at humor. It seems that when a new model of anything comes out, people think that the last models are less than desireable.

Sorry for the pic size.

Mine is an array formation. Manifold mounting is a little more discrete.

Here's a site with info on IB's. http://ibsubwoofers.proboards51.com/

They're like the light in the refrigerator. When you sign off, do they really go away?

The PB12Ultra2 should prevent a future upgrade in the sub department for quite some time. It gets my vote. Especially for movies.

My 7's will be out at the curb for trash pick up on Wednesday. I can't believe I actually still use them.

I've had 2 of them and loved them. They dig extremely low and are hard to beat for HT. If you use your system mostly for music, a sealed or PR sub would work fine.

Be sure to post a pic in the "Name that engine" thread. Good luck, Carl.

You are adjusting the sub to be in phase with your mains to help eliminate cancellation. Usually at the crossover point.

Jacksonbart's asking the question, but if you click on the stars you'll find that he has rated most of the threads[].

I'm with Buckeye here. Friday night is movie night. Usually preceeded by espresso.

An outie has the drivers in the room with you. The backwave goes to an adjacent room (attic, cellar, mechanical room, etc). These can be built in room as opposed to building in an attic.

Pic fubar, I'll try again.