CECAA850

One day.............[]

I've got an old Lenco at home that I haven't looked at in years. I think it's a direct drive that I bought in the mid 70's. It has (I think) an Audio Technica cartridge as a spare and I believe an Ortophon in the arm. Is there a market for these now? I got lazy when CD's came out. My LP's just sit.

I was tired 1'st![Y]

Some 18's work extremely well in an IB. It all depends on the driver.

Thanks for the follow up, I hope you get it back soon.

It looks like a Chrysler Crossfire!

"LFE" is the Low Frequency Effects in a movie DVD. When you say you have a 5.1 surround system, the .1 refers to the LFE channel. When you tell a receiver that you have a sub, it directs the LFE channel AND all info below your set crossover point of your 5 other speakers to the sub. All receivers are different, so you would need to see if your receiver will send the .1 info to the left and right speakers if "no sub" is selected in the setup menu. If a disc has no LFE track, your ft speakers receive a full signal when set to large. I have the RF-7's which are rated to 32 Hz. There is quite a difference in listening to 2 channel music with them set to large as opposed to setting them to small and letting the sub do what it was designed to do, mainly handle the lower octaves. It puts less strain on your amp and speakers when the sub is on equaling better sound IMO.

When watching movies, if you have the ft speakers set to large and indicate "no sub", in addition to missing out on all of the lower content that your mains cannot handle, you also eliminate the entire LFE (.1) channel.

An RC-35 will work as a center if you can't swing thr RC-7. Ditto on needing a sub. You're OK till you get one, then you can't do without. Upgraditis hits HARD once you get a taste of good bass. I'm on about my 5'th sub setup.

Definitely #2. The RC-7 alone makes it worth the wait for the sub. You can spend the time recouping fluids by researching what type sub you want.

Good deal. What differences have you noticed?

Sometimes corner placement isn't practical or optimal. I was just wondering if the 3 sided configuration would work well against a wall.

I tried to post here earlier but couldn't. Anyways I've had the RC-35 and 7. The 7 is the way to go. I know all Reference speakers are supposed to work together, but the RC-7 is a much better sonic match to your new floorstanders. I could hear a big difference when playing pink noise during callibration, the 35 just sounds different. The next thing to do would be to get a sub that will keep up with those RF-7's, but which sub is fodder for another thread. Carl

test reply

O.K., I'll be first. I'm tired of it.

Wouldn't a 3 sided design limit placement options, or does it not necessarily have to go in a corner?

How about a new Klipsch in wall sub......................

DrWho do you have insider information!!! with the new klipsch subwoofer line that is!

Smells like a 15 in the Premiere line to me[:#]

I haven't read anything about a sub larger than a 12. Is a 15 in the works?

I'd sell the statue before it broke and build a dedicated HT.

I think he's going BO$E.

Surface area of 2 10"ers, 62.8 sq. in. Surface area of 3 8"ers 75.4 sq. in. Now if we only knew Xmax................ EDIT: DUMBA$$ alert, I figured circumferance..........disregard post. Too much football last night.

I believe his post infers that an IB is the way to go. I know it was for me. No more big box in the room and usefull output into the single digits. I've gotten 110 dB from mine at 10Hz 14' from the sub. It's capable of more if I were to rewire it at 2 Ohms. Besides SPL, the best thing about an IB is the SQ. It's better than any box or tube I've owned.

According to the web site, the center that matches the B3's is the C3, not the C2. That may be the difference you are hearing.