yamahaSHO

I tuned my car with E85 and lowered the VTEC so that there is no "kick". I actually had to break out the laptop the other day to adjust for the E70 we're still at here... Which is why I need to install my ethanol sensor and run it into the ECU so I can have it be a true "FlexFuel" setup. I do want more power, but I would like to be as reliable as this motor has been (like 30 track days and some AutoX's and I've only done oil changes on the motor), so no boost. I would also like to bump up in classing for NASA and add aero, so I plan to do it as a package. That said, I will be putting in a J35a4 (Honda 3.5L V6 found in a bunch of cars). which is cheap, common, and should be able to get around 300whp/280wtq (currently around 220whp/160wtq).

And since I love talking cars... A few buddies passed through and stayed the night on their way to compete in One Lap of America that started yesterday. The white BMW won 7th overall and first in class last year. The GT-R is competing in stock class, but is currently the overall #1 lead after 2 events, but he is also a professional driver (and his girlfriend and teammate can drive too). Thought I'd update this: The BMW placed First in class, fastest BMW and 8th overall. The STOCK GT-R driven by a pro driver took Rookie of the Year and FIRST overall. If I get the motor swap and aero done on my S2000 this winter, I may do One Lap of America next year as well. And finally, I got a dry day on track, but my Hoosier's are heat cycled out. This session represents the 27th heat cycle on the tires and they are greasy and slow!

Everybody else is all looking at your car. I'm just over here checking out the trailer. I sell those. Pic from a photoshoot last night: Interestingly enough, on Monday, some asshat backed into my trailer and worked over the light and bracket pretty well and took off. At least I know that bracket had to do some serious damage to their car. I contacted Hull and asked them about fixing it. For $100, they cut off the old bracket, welded a new one on, primed, painted and put a new tail light on. You can't even tell anything happened and for that price from the guys who make the trailer, there really was not reason to try any other option. I dropped it off on Tuesday to pick it up on Friday and bring it back to load up the car for a track event. It was my first of the year and sketchy... The high was in the low 50's with no sun and I was on some seasoned Hoosier R7's. I did lots of power sliding at 70-95 mph turns staying flat in it. I'm just glad they didn't hit any further forward as they would have gotten into the wheel well. The yard is getting out of control... But I can't mow when it won't stop raining to where I sink in the ground. I was hoping to have a better feel of the brakes, but the traction just wasn't there. Normally, I have heat just pouring off the wheels and brakes (wheels too hot to touch) and the tires nice an hot, but I could barely get the tires to warm. That said, they're bedded in and turning pretty colors. And since I love talking cars... A few buddies passed through and stayed the night on their way to compete in One Lap of America that started yesterday. The white BMW won 7th overall and first in class last year. The GT-R is competing in stock class, but is currently the overall #1 lead after 2 events, but he is also a professional driver (and his girlfriend and teammate can drive too).

Better than braille? It just replaced a Braille...

My lightweight 17 lbs battery finally died on my track car, so I bought a <5 lbs lithium battery. It cranks the starter faster than any battery I've ever used.

The cars I've had/have: - 1989 Toyota Camry LE - 1995 Taurus SHO - 1992 Taurus SHO - 2002 Honda Civic EX - 1992 Taurus LX (beater) - 2005 Subaru WRX STi - 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD - 2004 Honda S2000 These are all the pictures I have currently since my server is packed up for a move. Taken yesterday after taking it out of winter storage. It's primary use.

Thanks teaman, I was planning on holding out for yours, but I couldn't pass this up!

I used to have 3 Outlaw M2200's and I got rid of them a few years ago because I didn't really need them with my setup and 3 subs. With my new setup that I'll have in our new house, I'll be expecting a little more out of the mains with only one subwoofer and regretted selling the amps. I was pretty lucky to find these 2 locally for $300 and they are just shy of 2 years old. It works out well as my new Marantz only has front L/R preamp outputs.

Yep, I upgraded to them with Swift springs last year after previously using KWv3's with H&R springs. I've been very happy with them and they're extremely light with the Swift springs.

Race car gets more go-slow parts:

Where can I find a clean set of RF-62's for $200? I'll buy them regardless of need at that price.

It's a Honda CBR 600 F3. It's under construction, but I currently lack time.

Sorry, I do not. I winged it by modeling it as an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 as they were very similar to me. I think I did okay in doing that.

I wonder if a can get a friend to pick these up for me.

If you were local, I'd make an offer, but it's like an 8 hour drive for me to pick them up.

I guess I have to be completely specific here: They are RF-7's. They are MDF (NOT plywood) with Veneer on both sides. Much like how you can buy veneer'd MDF from the store, which is generally veneer on both sides. The pictures are to show that Klipsch is using double sided-veneer'd MDF.

You don't say...

From the pictures I have seen, their (Klipsch) veneer'd MDF is veneer on both sides.

I run race gas in my pocket bike just for the smell. That said, I like the smell of rich, WOT Ethanol better.

That's fine, however, I didn't give any incorrect info. I have also been know to be called into a Subaru dealership to solve problem cars. I'm not professional mechanic and have found very little (probably none) I can have a technical conversation. Additionally, the aftermarket understands and has figured out ethanol better thank anything an OEM is producing. I am one of those people doing that.

Since ethanol is hygroscopic, moisture is the enemy and keeping it sealed away from a fresh source, like humidity is key. Trust me, I understand the subject well and I think you're still on the 'old school' thought, which is common. I've been reading and doing everyday for something like 15 years. I also differentiated between pre-ignition and knock, which carbon deposits can be a source of the hot spot). I also road race and support other racers with tuning. Using ECU control has also made it more complex since I can control intake advance, cam retard, boost and timing by gear and by ethanol percentage (and more), etc.

You're more likely to burn up the pump trying get to get it all out. Stabilizer would be my recommendation. Also, if it's in storage for a long duration, try to find some E0 gas to dilute it with. The process is getting better and better all the time. Chances are, that farmer has a old school thought and hasn't really put much else thought into it (most of them are clueless about it anyway).It's been awhile since I've caught up with all the ethanol talk from the many car forums I provide tuning advice, but what is used to make ethanol is essentially waste. As engines are built to take advantage of these types of fuels (no, your FlexFuel vehicle is not), power and MPG's increase. Pistons rock during normal operation, which is why they are slightly barreled. Audible knock is more like marbles in a coffee can and generally too late for a motor pushing a lot of power. Octane is the fuels resistance to detonation, not the speed at which it burns.Knock sensors are reactive in the ECU pulling timing. Some cars will be proactive in pulling timing, but only because it's experienced enough knock in a given RPM and load to warrant a problem. The resistance to detonation has much to do with the rate of witch the fuel burns. Early combustion (fuel burning too quickly) is what causes the pinging we hear with lower octane fuel, this is why retarding the timing helps with the issue to a certain extent. Octane rating also has to do with how much compression the fuel can take before igniting, the higher the octane the less likeliness to ignite under pressure. Octane rating isn't directly related to burn speed; it is it's resistance to detonation. Type of fuel and additives will affect burn rate though. It's not specifically about compression, it's about heat. Compression makes heat, but it's not equal in all engines. Knock isn't fuel burning too quickly, it's spontaneous ignition occurring after combustion. Pre-ignition is what can happen prior to combustion and is almost always deadly. Pre-ignition generally gets lit off by hot spots in the combustion chamber (or a tuner that doesn't have a clue what they're doing). I do a lot of ECU tuning on high performance cars. I've played around with a lot of different setups, fuels, tuning parameters, etc. There are a lot of different factors in how a fuel is going to take timing.