JJkizak

Dean: I would have said something more detailed earlier but I'm still fooling with many things.The new networks definitely moved things in a positive direction but my acoustics in the living room are not good and I am still learning different settings in the 7.1 mode which is the only mode that I do not like. The DE, DTS, and PLC-II are what I am using for just ordinary CD's. The equalizer settings are pumped up at 30 and 60 hz and also 16khz but I can't hear a thing (not the equipment but my actual hearing range) over 12.5khz. I will try some different setups in the next few weeks as time allows. One thing for sure, I will not put the old networks back in. Oh yes, the new networks are by DEAN. Also comtemplating a new DVD player that plays CD's. JJK

What are you going to use to play them? JJK

I can't put a number on it but Deans networks helped the high end a lot. When I say multiple tweeters and midrange I mean the same power but divided up evenly between the additional speakers to obtain more radiated area. This would I hope would improve the dynamic range and reduce distortion I remember recording some live stuff in the living room (Shure mics 50 to 15khz)and the results were breathtaking. There was an incredable improvement in transient response and presense, I guess not going through all of that super duper compression crap at the studios really helps. I wonder if anyone on this forum has tried multiple midrange and tweeters and what the results were. JJK

I was just listening to Eric Clapton on Crossroads and the bass was overwhelmingly painfull and the high end just ok. The Bass drum and snare drums were fine but I could have used about 8 more tweeters. A tweeter can't come close to producing the huge volume and presense required for a cymbal. Get yourself some Ziljan cymbals and bang on them in your living room and then try to duplicate that with a K-horn. No-way. You can get good results with a direct tape recording of you banging on them but it's not good enough. JJK

I usually make a big deal out of it. The video is short and in raw form. Close-ups were difficult.I'll mess with it and figure out how to post it up but I don't know when as I have about 6 large projects in the computer. It might be 6 months from now. JJK

I had fun doing it listening to my old tube radio in the barn. I even made videos of it. JJK

If you want to improve the performance holler for a guy by the name of "DEAN" on this forum. He will fix you up. JJK

The Band-it will bend easily around a 90 degree corner if the grain is lenght-wise (parallel to the corner) but will not bend against the grain. If you use the hot melt use a nice slow motion and have a rag behind the iron to keep the veneer down until it cools a little. You want to avoid long term dips that a flat sander will sand right through the very thin veneer. I know, I been there and done it. Its easy to get back off with the iron if you make a mistake. I know, been there and done it. You can edge butt two smaller pieces to make one big one lengthwise and fill the slight imperfections with plastic wood. I know, been there and done it. Once you get your first coat of stain on sand very carefully as you will create light-dark areas. I know, been there and done it. If you want the in between grain filled in use an appropriate grain filler as you will never be able to flatten it out as there is not enough thickness in the veneer. I know, been there and done it. If you are going to make a perfectly flat surface let the finish coats of miniwax polyurethane sit for about at least 30 days to settle as if you smooth it out after about 24 hrs it will slowly settle and the grain will pop out. I know, been there and done it. If you use polyurethane (clear) I put on 6 coats sanding the first three with 220 grit orbital sander then the next two with 600 wet/dry (wet) then then the next with 1200 wet. Get some fine 3m buffing compound from the auto parts store with a 6" or 9" foam buffing pad (not cotton) and a buffing tool or grinder and buff with some water and clean off with white t-shirts. Everything in sight will get smuthered with flying polish but the finish will be like a mirror. Also tape off protection for any exposed speaker. Now you know why I would use Formica the next time. JJK

Iv'e used the Lowes hot glue veneer and it worked ok but it is tricky and the surface must be absolutely flat. If you sand it a bit too hard with an electric sander the excessive heat build up will heat the glue and it will pop back up. If I had to do it all over I would use the formica and trim it with a router. JJK

Sounds cool to me. I would wonder out loud though if it came with a safety belt. JJK

My RSW-12 sits on the carpet about perpendicular with the back 6" from the wall. When I crank it up it works fine but the whole unit vibrates like hell. I had the manual sitting on top and it vibrated off between the unit and the wall. Is this normal? JJK

Make sure you are wearing safety glasses when you pry them things off. JJK

My idea is to have maybe about 8 k-horns each fitted with about 4 tweeters and 4 midrange, run them at mild volumes and then you have the Ka-Boom stuff because you are moving tons of air just like a live band does. I am of the belief that when a drummer strikes a cymbal you need about 10 or fifteen tweeters to give you the same feel as the live band. Figure it out: a cymbal is about 18" in diameter and you have 18 bad *** Inches vibrating the air instead of a 1" tweeter. You would need about 18 tweeters in a K-horn to duplicate the sound. JJK

Designing an amp to be stable requires well filtered and stable DC voltages. Why on earth would you want your amp voltages flopping around like a loose goose during heavy passages? Would it add a warble to the sound of the voices?Have you had your hearing checked lately? JJK

What D-Man says. If its a new stain you might get it out and then again you might send the speaker to hell. I have vaccumed and used spit and laquer thinner on new maybe day old stains but you have to have a lot of intestinal fortitude. I try stuff a lot and if I fail I just buy a new one and chalk it up as a failure. Pop and coffee stains should come out with water. Why mess with it when you can cover it with grill cloth? JJK

Very carefully. Water, Kleenex, or the wet rags you buy in the can. JJK

Problem with CD's is the 44.1 sample rate. You might consider the 48khz smaple rate for DVD's or going to the Dolby 5.1 and DVD Audio. JJK

Can you hear me now? Can you hear me now? Can you hear me now? JJK

Mov's come in many packages with many voltages and many current ratings for breakdown. If the transient is large enough (lightning) the mov's will fry themselves protecting the other units from destruction unless the lightning is huge, then the house burns down with all the good stuff inside. GE sold off all their MOV stuff to some company in Florida but you have to buy 100 at a time if you want the good ones that will handle high currents. I have used them on 480VAC 3-phase systems with fantastic results and also on 120 volt systems. These are an absolute "must" for any electronic system. Power fequency changes fry motors and other sensitive stuff so they also must be protected from frequency changes. Grainger and Mcmaster Carr sell all kinds of these things in all kinds of packages. "Filtrons" are available to filter the AC line voltage of all electronically induced crap riding on the 60 hz. Often overlooked is a bank of back up batteries accross the line which act as tremendous filters. The big guy's have solved all of these problems years ago with big dollars and results. People at home have to keep buying new stuff as it gets wiped out to keep the economy going. JJK

And the HDMI cables are very very pricy, at least a month ago they were. $49.00 for 6.5ft. Also they have optical ones for a about a grand apiece that will expand your system to 333ft. Also a 2 x 1 switch for $229.00. All at your friendly website at digitalconnection.com. JJK

Well we never did anything in the old days. We just turned it on an let it go. Maybe clean the 1/4" of dust off. If it's real old get the corrosion of the tube pins and redue the ground connections. JJK

Very nice. JJK

I bought a test cd with all of the stuff and found out I can hear from about 20hz thru 12.5khz but beyond that nothing even with the volume cranked. I used about -20 on the dial. Also checked the same way on my 4.1 Klipsch computer system. I used to be able to hear 16khz then 14khz and now 12.5khz is a real squeeze. JJK

If I would have save all of the tubes I changed for intermodulation distortion problems (20 per month) 5751, 5814a, 12au7, 12at7, 12ax7, and a slug of them that I can't remember I would have been rich. A tube then had the same status as a ball point pen---if it didn't work throw it away---. JJK

How do you get DC (Plate short) through an output transformer to smoke the speakers? JJK