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Woo, I paid 2300 for mine...but they came with a matching WO pair of Heresy. Obviously those Heresies are worth about 2K. So you must have paid waaaaay too much - mine were only 300

Max, yes mine looks just like that. I have played with it in the 3 different locations, but pretty much same result. I do have a test record...but until I get the power cord I was just concentrating on the set up. Thanks for the advice on non-use. I figured I needed it.

Yea I noticed a few days back too...I like the various babes much more then the stock blonde dude. Now I gotta a new "Homer" one I guess. Variety is the spice of life, right?

Well if you have been following my love affair with GaryMDs sound and the subsequent postings about what table to buy you already know I was originally going to go low budget/used just to make sure I was interested. Then I was thinking silly to buy and upgrade in a few months so I convinced myself to jump all the way in and get a new VPI Scout. Things change quickly around my house (the scout is coming but later rather then sooner). Next up was a used Planar 3 or P3that started lots of fun on the forum. I settled on an almost new, very low uses MMF-5. It arrived yesterdaythat is the good news I suppose Bad news is the power cord did not make the trip. Hopefully that will be resolved shortly. The real point of the post is to ask what the hell am I doing wrong on the setup? Alignment of the cartridge was done with the supplied alignment protractor. Pretty straight forward instructions on zeroing in the arm. I think I am good there. Next comes the tracking forcegood I think. Last step in the instructions is the anti-skate. It is the fishing line with weight variety. As soon as I hook that up the arm drifts up and over to the right so much that it clears the arm rest and continues past it. So I remove the weight, zero the arm, set the tracking force, attach the anti-skate weight and same thing. I must have done this 5 times all with the same result. If I were to move the counter weight forward I could get it to float in place I think, but then I would have way to much weight on the cartridge I am afraid. Any MMF-5 or similar users out there have the same problem? Am I doing something drastically wrong before I get to the anti-skate part of the set up? Did a quick search for TT Setup, Table setup, table set up, turntable set up, etc.no luck. Please help. Thanks, Rich

Seti, Thanks...I'll give it a look. Tube Gods, is it the 229 or nothing??? No suggestions for other Scotts that fit the bill to be resurrected from the dead?

---------------- Audio/video salesmen are under extreme pressure to sell extended warranties and accessories, especially the high-dollar cables. There are all sorts of "spiffs" (cash bonuses), contests and other incentives offered to the ones that sell this stuff. ---------------- This place was a small, high end store that did not come down a dime in price on anything you bought. It was long before Best Buy and Circuit city started popping up in every strip mall. The sales staff lived and breathed audio. You don't find stores like this any more. I was very, very small potatoes in their bottom line. However they had great equipment and great knowledge. I don't think they were pulling any sort of slick used car sales crap. My point is that either I heard a difference or I thought I heard a difference. That is what I find so interesting.

My curiosity in an integrated tube amp is up. I admit I know just about nothing about tube gear. SET, Push/Pull, Matched pairsit is all Greek to me. Anyone got a good Tubes for Dummies site? I see a lot of good things about Scott 229s. If, for the time being, we limit the discussion to Scotts what are some other good models to consider? I see 222s on ebay along with some others I also see some with an integrated FM tuner like the 340. Not planning on using this for much FM, but if it is a good tube amp to get my feet wet with no harm done. Are the difference in letters (A/B/C) just the year made or power or what? Any other Scott advice greatly appreciated. How complete do they need to be to have someone like Craig at NOS Valves work some magic on them. If you find one at a garage sale that does not even power up can they be saved or do you at least need to have one that is currently working but in need of some updating? I am not looking to experiment. I either want to buy a project piece and ship it directly to Craig or buy one that is plug and play. Thanks a ton, Rich

I find this incredibly interesting. A long time ago when 100 dollars meant a lot more to me today then it does now (read college student working to pay his tuition and owning my first house) I had assembled a decent systemat least by my standards. Forte II, Carver separate pre amp/tuner/amp, Nakamichi CD player with Burr Brown DAC, etc. I went to my local high end store to buy a Klipsch Academy. I mentioned that I was just about done buying audio equipment for a while. We got to talking about cables. I shopped this place and trusted this place. They were not high pressure sales people. For about 20-30 minutes the guy did some A/B comparisons with standard out of the box interconnects and Audioquest Rubys. An AQ Ruby is not a super expensive cable but no run of the mill junk either. Same speakers same speaker wires. He had me close my eyes and he switched back and forth never telling me which ones they were. I would swear I heard a difference and have repeated that story to many of my friends a family. Needless to say over the next several months I bought a pair of AQ cables here and there until all my inner connects were Audioquest as well as my speaker wire. The guy steered me away from banana plugs and the like telling me the raw wire was the best connection to my binding posts. I still believe I heard a difference and a favorable one at that. I now wonder if I just WANTED to hear a difference or if there was something else going on with the sales person. I cant believe they would go to the trouble to make some sort of a/b comparison to rip me off. The difference has to be more mental. Could your brain trick you into thinking you hear a difference for some strange reason? While I do have an engineering degree for a decent school (go Big Ten!) at a basic electrical level I would think as long as you are getting a reasonably ok connection just about any thing that conducts electrons should give you the same resultsbut I tell you I honestly believe I heard a difference. The above test looks to be much more scientific and hard to argue against. I feel cheated by my brain or my urge to spend more money. That is just crazy who wants to spend money when they dont have/need to. Very interesting indeed.

You guys need to get out more...check out what other have to say about those speakers over in "General" from yesterday http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=65651

Try and demo the Gyration before you buy and make sure you like it. We have one in our conference room at work. When it works it works ok. Most of the time it stinks. I would not my spend my money on one. Maybe they have imporved over the last year or so.

Funeral home ha ha ha ha ha! Just dig the hole and throw the speakers in rather then the stiff.

I am interested...please let me know if woodog is not.

Tom, havent I seen a khorn made from Plexiglas somewhere? That would be right up your alley. I agree a Photoshop illustration would be nice. Ironwoods, I find that I look AND listen to them. Ever since I got my khorns when I am listening to 2 channel music I am staring at my lone chorus in the center. I swear the music is coming form the chorus. Even though I have not turned on that amp I still have to stick my ear up to it from time to time. As for the second question...I would send my spouse packing with her Bose speakers in tow. My wife actually loves the look of the KHs. She says they are the nicest looking pair of speaker I have owned out of my KG4, Forte, Chorus, Heresy, etc. and I was worried that the size/shape of the khorns would be the problem when I brought them home. Pleasantly surprised, I wasas was she. Gary, I agree they look like Cs from what I could see. Tops look ugly too...so raw birch is a good bet. BTW any other Detroiters out there, Picky perhaps? They are for sale in Harper Woods, Michigan. That may explain the décor HA! Being from the west side of Detroit I never pass up a chance to rib the eastsiders

I would take the look of CP1's industrial LS over those.

Just watched The Forgotten last night. Decent flick, worth a $4 rent. There is one great (sound, not plot) moment near the end where an entire warehouse of windows is blown out. I was very happy with the surround sound of the broken glass. Seems like so much of surround is a booming explosion or jet flying overhead. The highs of the crackling glass hitting the floor was a welcomed change. Anyone else seen/heard it? What do you think?

I am very happy with my Denon 3910. Plays everything under the sun as far as discs go. Great picture and sound. Surely not the cheapest $$ in town, but if you only want to buy once and be done I would give it a look/listen. How much has the time and aggrevation been worth with the Sony. I would bet it is close to the 1K price tag of the 3910. Hope you find a winner. Good Luck...report back with what you end up with.

That happens to me ANY time a reply to a PM. I get locked out of the forums for about 20 minutes. Best I have found it to send new PM every time or use email. Glad it is not just me ;-)

I guess everyone has their own idea of what looks good. Ugly Khorn Auction I think a standard khorn looks much nicer then a faux cabinet in your corner. I bet it was not the idea of the person who purchased the speakers, but someone else living in the house.

I have seen that before very entertaining. For some real fun check out other items in the top link where the post originated from. Very good time wasting site.

Middleatlantic 19" rack rails and shelves. Build it any size any configuration you like and it looks nice if you like the minimal/industrial look.

YesFan, you may have hit on a significant difference between me and most HT users. I totally forgot that most will have a single multi-channel amp. I have three two channel amps (all the same but separate none the less). So my concern was that I might be better setting my "weakest", "Less efficient", "Quietest", "Farthest Away" what ever you want to call the speaker that needs the most addition input to the zero or base line, then adjusting all the others into the negative db range rather then setting my mains (most efficient) to zero and "Plus-ing" up the other to positive db range. Wow, that is one ugly sentence above. At any rate, I doubt there is any real difference. A 225 watt amp driving my Heresy surrounds for movies takes about 2 watts on the high side. If the Pre/Pro is set to give them +8db or zero it probably does not matter. My thinking would be that making the neediest speaker zero and the rest in the negative range would be better then making the least needy zero and putting all the rest on the positive side.

Interstellar Pizza Girl by Pyjama Charm

You are all missing the point. I know you want them set to the same level at a given listening position. My question is to setting the individual speakers. You will for sure end up with some on the + side and some on the - side if you just randomly start adjusting. So it is better to pick one and set it to zero then the others +1, +3, +5 or whatever it takes to get the right spl meter reading or is it better to set the "weakest" speaker to zero and the rest in the -db ranges? I think Michael Hurd answered it bets...at least it makes sense. The rest of you go back and read the first few posts. Thanks for all the interest, Rich

I can't help you out, but I can tell you my parents bought one (same brand don't know the model) and they could never get it to work. My dad was on hold with customer support for ever and never any luck. Sorry, good luck!

Ahhh, Frzn. You surely know how to spend my money (khorns) Those are the bees knees from Carver...but I subscrbe to the "I want all my channels to be the same" school. Not really sure why, but I remember my old pro logic days and hated having 225/100/225 in the front and 60 per in the back. Plus I think 4 2 channel amps stacked in the rack has a good wow factor as well. Nice idea though, thanks! Find me a TFM-25 in mint shape for less then 300...that is your assignment for the day.