rplace
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Posts posted by rplace
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19 hours ago, the real Duke Spinner said:
I have a Rep of this watch ..
The line on it is decent, but not like the Gen
15 hours ago, the real Duke Spinner said:What might need clarified ???
I'm pretty clear on "I have a".
Rep
The line on it is decent
Not like the Gen
Sorry, no idea what any of that means. Send me the same drugs or the proper Rosetta stone to aid in translation.
Guessing Rep might be Replica or Reproduction but confused as to why both it and Gen are capitalized. Line decent, maybe a typo for "time decent". As in it keeps good time.
I'm sure it all makes sense in your head. Keep the tinfoil on so it doesn't escape.
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3 hours ago, the real Duke Spinner said:
I have a Rep of this watch ..
The line on it is decent, but not like the Gen
Translation please
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Drinks on the deck yesterday evening, with the spring sun low in the sky, powered up the Omega's lume. I'd take this over a cell phone any day
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On 3/17/2023 at 11:34 AM, Godataloss said:
Bump for super cool build.
Thanks, had some local interest but the trail went cold. Spring cleaning is around the corner...come get them before the land fill does and the drivers go to USAudiomart.
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1 hour ago, rivlinm said:
I feel that's a bit more expensive than what I want to do. But slick for sure. I'd love to know if I can just safely use the DPS-1 if all units are off.
They are not very expensive used. I don't believe they have been made for some time.
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Give this a look. I've used these also with great success. I think I actually have one or two still on hand, let me know if you are interested.
https://www.ielectronics.com/products/niles-fg00240-spk1-speaker-level-a-b-switcher-12v-triggered
It defaults to one set of inputs and the 12v trigger makes it switch over. Two amps one set of speakers. From memory I set my tube amp to the default (not triggered) and when I switched on the AVR it would fire its 12v trigger and flip it over. And just to be extra safe always made sure my tube amp was powered down before I ran the solid state stuff. It's basically what @Sam S.suggests but the Niles device is the one rooting around behind system swapping banana plugs. It's very slick.
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42 minutes ago, richieb said:
— Ohh Rich - I’ll gladly pay you Tuesday for a CD today - Wimpy Rich
Hamburgers, yes please.
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I used a Niles DSP-1 to basically do what you are after for 10+ years with zero issue. I have a 7.1 Home Theater set up all with individual solid state amps for each channel. I use the same Left and Right for HT as my main music rig. It was my understanding, when purchasing the DSP-1, that it was built such that what @Khornukopia describes above could not happen. Can't remember the reason why, but like I said zero problem for many, many years using Solid State for movies and Tubes for Music.
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Some interest in the cabinet size. 18" front to back, 21 inches wide and 21 inches high. They were built such that that driver is centered in a eighteen inch capitol "H". Thus the H frame name for this type of open baffle design.
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Sold! Thanks Klipsch Forums
Front artwork only for most discs. Condition ranges form decent (some scuffs and scratches) to not great (lots of scratches). I've test played and ripped the worst and all have played with zero skips. That said, if you are looking for pristine collector quality CDs this is probably not for you. If there is a particular tile you are really interested in let me know and I'll rip it with EAC and give you the report.$35 shipped Media Mail to your door. Paypal Friends or Venmo unless you are @richieb then colorful beads, wooden nickels and I.O.U.s are acceptable.
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28 minutes ago, HPower said:
Can you elaborate a bit more on how you are with the J2 VS. your previous Wright 2A3s?
Of all the tube amps I have had if I was only going to keep one of them it would have been the Wright 2A3s. They might have lacked just a bit of power when you really wanted to rock but they did so much else perfectly. There are a couple of other low power tube amps that I've not heard like 45 and 300B but I loved the Wrights. That said, the First Watt offering I'm using had balanced connections. I was moving toward an all balanced system with active crossover (xillica) and bi-amping....big powered Crowns for the LF and "something" (Carver, First Watt, Wright, VRD, et.) for the HF. The VRDs were the first to move and it was an easy decision. VRDs are great but a bit of a one trick pony, even with the triode/UL switching and tube swapping. In the end I found myself using the FWatt more and more than the Wrights. They sounded more similar than different. I also found I was not constantly scouring web sites for one more "magical" tube that cost more than the amps and just might add a bit more ferry dust. I'm glad to be off the tube chasing hamster wheel.
There comes a point where everything sounds great. There really is nothing, and I mean nothing that sounds bad. Just different levels of personal preference. I preferred the FW overall. Some of that had to do with the balanced connections. I could have been more than happy with the Wrights the rest of my life. They were the one amp that every once in a while when I was not paying attention would make me sit up, snap my head in the direction of the music and think WOW that was amazing. I'm sure I would have been happy if I kept them but they would have sat more then they got used.
Hope this helps
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Up top!
Come get 'em or have me pull the drivers to send you.
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Desert La Scala post
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13 hours ago, Coytee said:
Could you use (what I think are/were called) "T-amps'??
how do you power them? Could you use a 12V auto battery?
Yes and yes, you want one of these. They will run off of a car battery. There was a great post many years ago, I'm sure you will remember, where a forum member would take his La Scala's to the desert. Pretty sure he used one of these and a car battery for hours of power.
Cellphone or old ipod with headphone to RCA cable to L/R input of the amp. Amp sounds great too. IIRC, I paid around $125 for the amp and it came with car battery sized terminal connector and wall plug.
I've not used it in years PM me if you want to discuss.
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These are the PaP horns I'm after....if you see some for sale let me know. Keen to give them a try.
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31 minutes ago, Shakeydeal said:
Which is why the PAP speakers intrigue me with the option of several different midrange drivers that are better suited for that job.
You just keep buying/making center baffles for the task at hand. I've got two sets of black, center, baffles. Different drivers always mounted (Voxativ and Audio Nirvana, sold the Tang Band). With the 30 Xillica pre-sets I can swap center drivers and be listening to a totally different sound in 10 minutes or less. Just four hex head bolts per baffle. The PaP 15" drivers are pretty versatile and can be crossed successfully at many different points depending on the curves/measurements of the full range drivers between them. Highly addictive.
The Voxativ is better all around but a bit more laid back. The AN's are a bit more in your face and alive, more sparkle and high end slightly fatiguing. I'm constantly stalking USAudiomart for the PaP wooden horns, can't remember off the top of my head what they are called but I'd really like to have both those horns and AMTs for the center. I've just not taken time time to give the Heil AMTs a go. I've got AMTs in a pair of Wharfedale bookshelfs in my office and LOVE them.
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18 minutes ago, Shakeydeal said:
I've been curious about those myself. Looks good.
Open Baffle or PaP specifically? I don't think I'll ever go back to box speakers for my main system. Unless he has switched gears I think @Tarheel is more or less in the same boat....Spatial if I'm not mistaken.
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I have two Eminence Alpha A-15 15" drivers. They are currently in the Open Baffle H-Frames you see below the big Oris horns. Nice but not perfect zebra wood veneer job. The veneer was not cheap and the rest of the materials not to mention my time makes them so I'll never recover my costs.
$200 for the pair, you haul away at zip 21154 or make Uship arrangements.
Drivers are currently $145 each at Parts express. They make excellent open baffle projects.
If you just want the drivers I have the original boxes (I think). You pay actual shipping and still just $200 for the pair OBRO.
Here is some info on the build of the boxes if you are remotely interested:
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/182051-bbb-bass-bin-build-with-zebrawood/
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19 hours ago, Limberpine said:
What will replace the Osiris horns?
I've been keeping both and switching back and forth. Love both, figured if the Oris sold it would make the decision for me. If not I would happily keep them. These are my take on Pure Audio Project's Trio line. Voxativ AC-1.6 or Audio Nirvana drivers in the black center baffles with PaP's proprietary 15" drivers above and below in the white baffles. I'm using an Xillica 8080 as the crossover, same as I did on the Oris.
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51 minutes ago, the real Duke Spinner said:
That is an odd place to start. 🙂
My money my choice
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Hissssss on One Amp Channel Only
in Lounge
Posted
This is a new one for me. The weather is getting much nicer and lots of projects in the backyard. I fired up the Klipsch AW-650s a while back and all seemed good as far as I could remember. This weekend I had a pretty nasty hiss on one channel only. Did not matter if music was playing or not. If the amp was turned on it was hissing. Pretty loud, but did not get louder when turning up the volume. I chalked it up to 10 years or so of the outside elements or my Carver TFM-25 circa 1992 finally giving up the ghost.
Recently I was tidying up my digital library. I've got several 5TB USB drives that I backup my NAS to. It takes a couple of days to move 4+TBs of data and when it was done I left the external drive attached to the NAS for probably a week or more. When I went to collect the drive today I noticed it was not in the front USB port as usual. It was connected to one of the BACK 4 USB ports. The shelf for the NAS was pretty full and the cord for the USB drive short. So the drive ended up on the shelf above. That shelf was for the Carver amp.....and the drive was directly under one set of speaker binding posts.
I disconnected the drive, walked outside and the speaker in question was dead quiet. I guess the spinning drive and/or associated electrical emissions were being picked up by the amp's binding posts. In this case digital way more background noise than vinyl.😁