jwc

If the above internal dimensions are correct, then the Heresy 1 internal volume is 1.810131 cubic feet. Yes, this excludes the volume of the drivers/horns, 3/4 inch mounting pieces, and crossover. Bob, your Heresy does have the 3/4 inch strips in the front and back to mount the motorboard and back cover....right? jc

Bob I'm with ya. If the motorboard is offset 7/16, then I agree with an: internal depth: 11 5/16 internal height: 19 3/4 Is your external width....15 1/2? Making internal width: 14"? jc

Thanks Bob. That is what I needed. Now I just need some internal Dimensions of the cabinet. jc

Dean, Let me make sure I understand this. You are saying the T2A wasn't used in the Heresys or Cornwalls pre 1980? Was this T2A only seen on A and AA networks on scalas, belles and khorn?

Todd, I don't need the height including the components on the crossover. I just want the dimensions of the wood base. I'm sure the height is 3/4 inch. But what is the width and depth? The Heresy doesn't have "butt" joints like the Cornwalls. Therefore I am not visualizing the internals very well. Also, I don't know if the motorboard is offset from the front 5/8 inch like the Cornwall. jc

Yes, I follow you Al. I would probably use Klipsch drivers mentioned above and pretty much keep to previous known schematics of Klipsch networks. Again, the reason I asked the question above, is to know if the T2A Klipsch transformer has remained the same over the years and would an old one have good quality. I am assuming at this point that one wouldn't go "bad" like a cap would. I think Dean answered most of my question. Al, for instance. Lets say I bought an old AA network off Ebay. Then I scrap most of it but keep some wires, terminals and the transformer. Now...what if I got a sudden leap of experience/knowledge and wanted to build one of your ALK "universal A" networks. Couldn't I use the old AA network T2A transformer and expect it to integrate in with your design? This is not my plan...but merely to explain what I am thinking. jc

I see old networks on Ebay all the time. They usually sell for cheap. Did Klipsch use the same T2A Auto-transformer on all of the older Heritage line? For example..would the transformer on a Heresy from the 70's be the same as one from the 80's or 90's? Do these go "bad" with time? Would it be a bad idea to scrap the caps, inductors or resistors on an old Heritage network and utilize the original transformer, wires, particle board with klipsch label, and 8 terminal barrier strip. I am by far NO expert on networks. However, thought I might fiddle around with old networks to get them to work with future cheap build ideas I have...such as crude DJ like speakers. jc

Would someone please measure the internal dimensions of the heresy one for me. I know the external dimensions. I need: Inside top to bottom Inside side to side Inside of motorboard to inside of back cover. Also external dimensions of the base of the crossover H x W x D. Thanks so much jc

You know Al got that thing down to 30 HZ with the K-24 driver. However, the Cabinet was 4.3 cubic foot not including the HF section. Heck, the Cornwall is just over 6 cubic foot. If I were to have a cabinet that big, I would just stick to the cornwall. However, 30 HZ sounds nice.

Good thread. Sorry to hear of those who were taken advantage of. My neighborhood is very nice. In the last month, a guy in an Altima with his kid in the car has broke in to two of the houses in the neighborhood. Both home owners stated they didn't have their alarm on. Consider video surveilance. You may not realize how easy it is. If you have cable run throughout your house, you could put up cameras that would hook to you computer. Man, I would love to bust folks who take from others. jc

Guys, I had an interesting experience. My wife and I were contemplating a puchase of B & W Nautilus 801's. My wife loves they way they look. I have good relations with a dealer locally since I have bought a bunch of McIntosh stuff there. We took in some CD's from home and listened to several songs on the 801's. They were run by the MAC MX135 and MX402. No sub runnin. We really expected to drop about 8 grand on these. Strange enough, we wern't too overwhelmed with the sound. Yes they sounded outstanding but not like I had expected. I own a pair of Klipsch La scalas with ALK networks made by AL. Honestly, the mids and highs were about par with the 801's. The bass was waaaayy better on the 801's. Now I'm not here to make the statement that the upgraded heritage series is in the same league as the high end B&W Nautilus. This was just our experience. jc

Craig Very good question. Listen to music 98% of the time in 2 channel. However, come to favor some of the DVD Audio available. For me to listen to music in 5 channel mode right now is a let down due to the quality of my Front end compared to evreything else. The center and surrounds right now are fine for movies. Stink for music. The build I have for the front end isn't complete but I will have a complete post on this project some time next week under "Updates and modifications". Dodger What is your take on comparison of the MAC tube amps you listed? I'm sure this has been chronicled elswhere on the forum jc

Thanks for the response. After reading the below, you may think my inquiry for the MC 30 is nuts. Well, my set up is a little disorganized right now. However: A Mac 252 runs my fronts. This is SS new from MAC with 250 WPC. This runs a pair of La Scalas. Yes this is very overkill. I think the amp is "barely used". All of the rest of the speakers are run by a new MAC 206 which is 200 WPC 4 ohm by 6 channels. Preamp is a new Mac MX 119 (SS). I am in the process of bulding some speakers for my fronts that have more low end. I eventually will have all Heritage surround speakers. I was hoping to start with the center first. I think I will build a split heresy. Eventually, I hope to have two heresy surrounds as well. jc

Craig, General question for you. Do you restore/upgrade MAC MC 30's. If so, what are the options. I plan to possibly plan to buy 1-3 of these in the future. One for center and 2 for surrounds. Thanks jc

Well, I don't know the volume but I could calculate it. The port shelf is 23 3/4 x 9 1/2 x 3/4 inch. This rests on port supports that are 3 3/8 x 9 1/2 x 3/4.

Well, my dimensions are different. How thick is that stuff....1 or 1 1/4 inch?

This thread was hijacked but I need to ask this since the subject of dampening came up. If I were to place lining in bass bin (custom), would I just need to place it say: on one side, back and top? One side only? Or everywhere? Maybe I should try it without and then put one piece at a time. I just hate to keep screwing and unscrewing the back cover. jc

Black Label Society "1919 Eternal"

Bob, I don't think you can expect anyone to jump in on this one with expert advice. You could get lucky. jc

We got sum Corns up in here! Whoof..Whoof

very nice

Hey, I want some pics. Also, how is it soundin' jc

Okay, Now we are getting simpler and I follow. What texture latex should I use? I have some latex primer at the house already but I know that it doesn't sand worth a dern. I have my oiled base paint as mentioned above. I would like to try this out. Do you suggest a "reducer" or paint thinner so that I don't get the edge of the roller or foam brush marks to "lye down" The guy at the paint store and Cphoto seem to think this High Gloss paint will "smooth out" as it settles and dries. sanding not needed. I'm glad you think sanding at 220 is fine. I was plannin on going real fine. Glad not necessary. jc

This is a Birch plywood cabinet, I am using the 60 grit to easily rid of imperfections at the joints and to sand down lumps of wood filler. The wood filler was in bunches of screw holes. I only went through and through the veneer in one location. This was unavoidable because that joint was "overlapping". I will next plan on 150 grit lightly then 220 grit. Should I go higher than 220 grit? jc

Update, I've been sandin like crazy with 60 grit. All by hand. About 3 hours on a Friday night. My arms didn't fall off but my shoulders swelled up like back in the days when I was a linebacker. I went to the Porter store today. I had to drive out of town to go there. I bought a quart of Glibtex black oil paint...High Gloss. $21. Now let me say this....These guys comments were almost identical to my last experience going to a paint store (Sherwin Williams (sp)). When I asked about sanding they both said "no need". Just one coat of primer with a foam roller or foam brush and then 2 coats of paint with a foam brush or foam roller. This is identical to my last experience. Honestly, I don't want to have to sand primer or paint but why aren't these guys delivering techniques like what I read all over this forum? Now Michael (cphoto), they showed me the "real" nice brushes to buy but talked me out of it. You know now that I bought the Glippy stuff, I want to know exactly how you do it. M. Hurd. There is no way I can compete with the complexity of your refinish jobs. I know you do perty work. Read lots of your other threads. However, is ther any value in me adding thinner or "reducer" to my Gliptex oil paint (High Gloss) so that it goes on without paint marks? I have to admit, I don't think I am going to sand paint off. I love to sand actually, but I'm looking for a quick durable black finish that I can roll or brush on. jc