Anakin26

2 jazz recommendations: SACD: Bennie Wallace "The nearness of you" Great stereo SACD. No vocals on this one. Saxophone, piano and bass, thats it. Nicely mastered. CD: Cassandra Wilson "Blue ligh till dawn" Not your average jazz sound. Have to hear to understand. Excellent mastering. Amazing dynamics, crystal clear sound. Nick

Well... if space and budget permit another pair of RF-35 for the surrounds is the perfect choice. Especially when listening to multi-channel music matching floorstanding speakers for the surrounds are great. If space and/or budget (or your wife) don´t permit, if believe most people here would recommend the RB-35s for the surrounds and rear surrounds. What you could do is use 2 RB-35s as surrounds and one RS-35 as rear surround (which will be easier on your budget too). Nick

Hehe! Good one! Maybe we should buy them in large numbers at HD and sell them as audiophile HQ gator clamp. "The new, revolutionary Audio-Gator will instantly improve all of your internal audio connections. From speaker to crossover from crossover to terminal. Audio-Gator increases eletrical flow, transparency and dynamics. At only 49.99,- per pair they are the ultimate audiophile bargain." I love my job.... Nick

Hm... never thought about it that way. I thought that the distance to the rear wall has no influence on the porting other than, if too close, it will chancel out the waves before they are able to spread. I tried a few different positions now, finding that there is one particular distance that kind of smoothens the LF response. In my case thats approx. 1 foot from the rear wall. Thanks again! Nick

Hmm... - I spy (Eddie Murphy, Owen Wilson) - Austin Powers 1 - 3 - Spaceballs (all time classic) Nick

Are those clamps silver coated? They look very hq.... Nick

Hm... maybe someone from Klipsch can comment on that? Amy? Dean, if you feel they shouldn´t be posted here, let me know. As Gil said though, there is no guarantee my drawings are correct. Nick

Thanks for posting the pic. Did you use the clamps, to be able to make changes in the wiring if needed? I thought about mounting the 10ohm resistor recommended by Dean on the board and then find a way to "switch" it on or off. This way I would have a chance to switch between factory and DeanG sound. I will let you know if i find a good solution. Nick

I bought a mid-priced lcr-meter. I believe it has all the functions I need to measure the caps, inductors and resistors. It will also give me the ohm values of the caps and inductors. So I should be fine. I was able to measure all parts on the LF board. The problem with the HF board is, that you can only measure the 5uF cap solely. Measuring the 12 or 18uf cap will show values, that seem to be added values of all 3 caps... which seems logic to me, as they are connected via the board. Don´t know about the inductors. Do you measure all parts with differenct frequencies? I can choose between 120HZ and 1000HZ. I measured all parts at both frequencies and wrote down the values. Thanks for your help! Nick

If you want a movie that you can watch all night try "troy". It has the worst sound mix I have heard in a while. Quite a dissapointment. Theres more dynamics on an mc. But I am with, when you say that´s part of the fun. I like fiddling around with my system. There is always something you can do and try to improve the performance.

Have you got what you need yet? If not, I think I can provide you with the 300dpi file. I run an advertising agency here in Austria. We do things like that all the time. I would actually recommend an illustrator file which will be a "pathed" file that can be scaled to any size you need without quality loss. Let me know if yes. I will see if one of my employees can do that for you real quick. Nick

I had my ht for quite a while before i installed the black stage cloth on the front wall. It was amazing how much this changed the room accoustics. I have my pc in the same room. Even typing on the keyboard sounds different with the cloth in the room. I found it improved the sound a lot. I have a big window on one side of the room which I cover up with a heavy curtain when listening to music or watching a movie. This way I reduce unwanted reflections thus making the sound clearer and more defined. I have to check on where I got the information from. I sure this big distance from the rear walls is mentioned somewhere. I like your theory better though... because space doesn´t permit my RF-7s to stand this far away from the rear wall. Twice the port diameter is more like it! Thanks Nick

Definitely. Bass will improve a lot if you do. I am not sure but I believe Klipsch recommends approx. 1 meter from the rear wall, which would be around 3 feet. Nick

Hmm... I think anything that reduces wall reflection is pretty much welcome in a ht. I myself have the wall behind my rf-7s and rc-7 covered with heavy stage cloth. I would says YES it eats some of the lf, BUT it also makes for a more controlled bass reproduction. What I found really important is, that you give the RF-7s enough air to breathe between the ports and the wall. With the cloth it becomes even more important. Nick

I just made diagrams of the RF-7 crossovers. Looks like the HF-x-over inverts the horn´s phase for some reason. I don´t know if I can post them here?! Will anybody mind or the other way around... anyone interested in them? Nick

Ok. Now I understand. Well... if you can´t set it up in an arc as supposed to, you can still level this out by setting the distances correctly. Right? If so, everything is perfectly OK with my setup. I have the center tilted upwards, so the horn is "aiming" exactly at my ears! Nick

Talking about me being an electronic whizz kid. I bought the meter today, dissasembled my RF-7s and RC-7 and startet measuring..... just to realize that I cannot measure some of the parts unless I unsolder them from the boards. *arghhhhh* What a PINTA. Ok.... hope you have a good laugh at me! *ggg* Nick .... looking for his soldering iron...

I will try mundorf caps. Any experience with those? Greetings from Austria to Australia!

Ok... now you overestimated my english skills. All I undertsood was "jssdgjfljshnhsdffg". Plum? She? HELP!

---------------- On 8/19/2005 10:57:28 PM SoundBroker wrote: Second thing to check is your center delay. If your speakers are all in a straight line across the front and you do NOT have a delay on your center channel...it is too close (they have to be arrayed in an arc to be physically identical). Measure from your center listening position to each speaker. A good rough rule of thumb is to add 1MS for each foot the center is closer to you. If your amp/processor does NOT have a center channel delay capability...then you'll want to physically move the speakers. This can effect dialogue clarity. ---------------- Hey SB! That was some rather interesting information. My dealer keeps on recommending the screen research transparent screen to me. Mounting the center channel right behind the screen is a very interesting thing, but space won´t allow in my case. When you are saying "they have to be arrayed in an arc" do you mean the center should always be further back than the fronts? Should one then set the correct delay times (which will have the effect, that the difference in distance will again be evened out) or should one always set the center a little further away than it actually is (and by that cause it to play a littler "early" by some miliseconds compared to the fronts). How much further should one set the center (or do you mean "delay the center", because then you would have to set it closer to get a delayed output)?. My center is physically aligned with the fronts. Another thing I found in another thread is, that most of the automatic calibrating systems will set the sub a lot further away than it actually is. Is that something you can recommend? And again... is there a rule of thumb by how much you should increase the setting in distance? Hope you understand what I mean. Nick

Hmm.. what exactly to you mean by "fooling around" are you trying different values for the caps? Or different brands? I thought that especially with the caps in the amp you should stick with the factory values as changes might have unforseen effects? Nick

I´ll be out tomorrow morning buying a meter. It´s the day of truth for the crossovers in my system. I will measure both RF-7s and the RC-7. I am really keen to find out just how exact the original crossovers are. This is going to be the basic data before starting with any mods. I will let you know the outcome!

I figure, that if the caps in the crossovers degrade, the same will happen to the caps in the amp. All those parts are under constant thermal stress... wouldn´t wonder if they give up after a while...

The only thing that I can say is, that I liked the RF-3IIs better than than the RF-35 in both looks and sound. But thats probably because I owned a set of RF-3II. I felt the RF-3IIs had more punch on the lf... Nick

If you take out the ion tweeter you have darth vaders laser sword!