lavinius

Tumult 15D4 (Fs of 17Hz) 699$ RRP ADA1200 - 699$ RRP ( 1200W @ 4 Ohms) add some seriuos enclosure of MDF with bracing and have it sealed and be prepare to crack your drywalls as well as your neighbours. I have never heard anything like it !

Australia

yesterday i had a chance to AB the RB75 and the RF35, the RF35 sounded muddy and it was 1.5meters from the wall, I think I'll buy RB75's for the front and use the current RB35's fronts as rear centers, the RB75's are so clean it's amazing

would you ship oversease ? if so I'm interested

Doppler distortion aka frequency modulation distortion happens when one driver tries to produce a higher and lower frequency at the same time. Paul Klipsch claimed that as long as the woofer excursion was less than a sixteenth of an inch it would not be a problem. Horn loaded bass keeps the excursion below a sixteenth of an inch. Reference bass is not horn loaded. Imagine the woofer going in and out an eigth of an inch with an explosion while a male actor is speaking. The woofer is trying to go in and out at 500 Hz while it is going in and out at 50 Hz at the same time. You get the same effect as a police siren going away from you; there is a "smearing" of the sound. If you let the sub handle the explosion, you still hear the explosion, but the voice is more easily understood. If you want more bang, just turn up the sub. It will still appear to be coming from your mains or surrounds. Bill ...but the dialogue is basically 90% on the center chanel and you can cross that over to say 100Hz by seting that to Small, i noticed in Master and Comander that the cannons shooting is much better when I set my RB35s to large and RC35 to small. My Yamaha crosses to about 100Hz the center chanel if set to small, so it's ok for dialogue, i can also apply parametric eq on the center chan to lift the vocal range if needed be but explosions sound much much better when I have my RB35s set to large and I don't hear any distorsion. When it comes to bass i think its the amount of air that the woofer moves that makes the impact, hence both a 12" and a 15" tune to 20hz would almost sound the same but the 15" will have more impact, I really don't like overpowering bass hence I like to crossover at about 60hz if not 55hz, this only employs the sub to do it's thing and watching a movie feels better, crossing at 80Hz will just have the sub rumble non stop through out a movie and it just feels unrealistic, little things moving around in a movie don't shake your house if it would be in real life! like a glass of water droped on a wooden floor with the sub crossed at 80hz as per THX makes a really unrealistic sound as if a 200kg bag o cement hit the floor, having my sub crossed at 55Hz cancels that out and the RB35's can reproduce the glass hitting the wooden floor more convincingly then otherwise.

on plasma/lcd if you have hdmi/dvi use it it has the bandwidth it needs to properly display the picture. Component is just a little bit better then S-Video and no where near as good as RGB or DVI/HDMI. Plasma's use a digital singnal ... signal coming out of Component/RGB/Composite is not digital therefore some conversion is needed, HDMI is digital.

take that Yamaha mic and throw it a long long long way away from you! now you'll feel better! Tools you need: SPL meter and tape measure Factory reset your Yamaha receiver, i think you press Straight when it's off then press the ON/off button but i could be wrong as I haven't done it for a long time Now mound your spl meter where your ears would be on a tripod, position your speakers so they "hit" the spl meter and position yourself somehow so that you can read the spl meter but don't interfeere with the sound waves much. Go to the onscrereen setup menu and push that hissing test tone out and push up the volume until you reach about 80db on the spl meter then adust all your speakers to 80db Now get a tape measure and measure the distance from the voice coil/cone to the spl meter and put them in the yamaha setup Have all your speakers setup to large Use the EQ on the center channel to match it with the rest of your system and you might want to give it a slight boost around voice levels Setup your sub crossover point anywhere between 45 and 55 hz, that depends really on how smooth you want the transition to be, don't go over 55-60 and don't invert anything just yet Pun on your fav DVD and enjoy ... now you can fine tune your sub .. the rest should be spot on

I think you should go get a Soundblaster/Cambridge computer system with he 6 little cube and sub (Megaworks 5.1 methinks) and put them next to the BOSE, put an iPOD in them them and voila! 3 times cheaper, sounds better and the iPOD is coolder

are the Bose those little cube speakers that SoundBlaster Cambridge 4 point surround blows them out of the water at 1/10th of the price?

use 2 center rears no more the 1m apart and do not use dipole/tripole for rear center, using only one center behind you is really weird, I've tried it and it just doesn't sound natural at all I used 2 and it worked better with 007 in DTS-ES/X, actually it worked quite well, i then went back to one center speaker and it felt unrealistic again ... I think it's because it's right behind your head and the way your ears are positioned it feels weird unless you're an elf.

do you get a hiss or hum? did you have that hiss/hum before? if you still have you old speakers did you reconnect them and listen closely? is the hiss/hum still present at say 5% volume? Is your amp/cd/dvd earthed properly (if they are older or if you use a PHONO input)? are your carrier cables ballanced or unballanced? does it do it on Video1 Video2 Video3 Tunner or might have you on your amp ? This are questions I'd askmyself first then try and put my finger on it but like someone mention ... "welcome to the world of revealing speakers"

...one more thing that no one has touched i think you should try and present the product as best as you can visually, Klipsch are awesome looking speakers but need acurate positioning specially the Reference series (i haven't heard the Synergy). I for a fact know that here in .au Klipsch dealers make a heck of a lot more then you guys but where you see klipsch speakers you will 100% see M&K on the left and B&W top line on the right. Only one company imports Klipsch here and they are very carefull of their resellers hence when i walk into a store that sells Klipsch they are in mint condition, perfectly positioned and it just have a touch of class about them, we have 2 dealers in Brisbane and they are top class. Another thing most ppl haven't said anything about regarding show off what a HT system can do is the simple things like, the THX intro, the THX intro from Terminator 3, the DTS intro's, play hese at 80% volume and it will put a smile on lot's of ppl faces and they are part of every movie so to them it will not look like you're trying to con them into buying it with only selected scenes. ...the 360degree sound paning in House of Flying Daggers drum beats is absolutely AWESOME with a quartet of RB35's and a RC35 center! and if you want to hear the Klipsch difference in the first battle scene in Master and Commander in DTS, only with Klipsch and M&K did I hear the wood cracking perfectly when the cannon balls hit the ship with every single sound perfectly detailed, it was just amazing .....and the M&K were double the price of my Klipsch. It's hard to put Klipsch agains anything else in HT really as the high sensitivity and crystal clear sound are a match made in heaven for the dynamic range in HT price wise against anything I wish you all the best

The Incredibles and Finding Nemo are huge for bass and look awesome on most LCD/Plasma's I'm from Australia and we don't have BB here so I have no idea on what you guy's stock but the scene in Finding Nemo where he knocks on the fishtank glass, at reference level at a friends place it cracked his drywalls literally! (1x tumult 15" tuned at 18hz fed by 800w rms). Most will like Sci-Fi and cartoons so give them a try, and everyone would return a 3.000 HT system if it don't do what the sales told them it will. I think you should be honest and let the end user decide what he wants and how much he want's to spend as so many times friends went with the sales guy "informative" point that "this" system is better then "that" but it's 600-800 more only to have the system returned as a half price system that their friends bought sounds twice as good. Some users like the clean sound with clean transient bass, some like just huge un-articulated bass so it's up to you to put a few movies on on diff systems and let them decide what they want. IMHO on a good HT setup everything will sound good and music too regardless what DVD's you put on. Personally i like to give volume 80% on the pod race in StarWars, crossover the sub at 55hz and let it rip, I got so used to the Klipsch that now i can identify every pod that zooms by and trust me... you won't be able to do that on many HT speakers systems and there is are so many dynamics in that scene if you listen to it at close to reference levels to the extent where an end user will know if the HT system is good or bad. 4-6-8 ohms is nothing more then the impedance of the speaker the amp sees 20% of the thime and should be able to cope with any, some amps thou, cheaper ones will go into bad THD at 4ohms compared to 8omhs as they are driven harder hence most manufacturers will only give the THD at 8Ohms and they stay very clear of giving away the damping factor of the amp/receiver. I have found Yamaha not to lie about it's capabilities hence on the manual of my Yamaha it clearly states the following: Minimum RMS Output power from Front, Center, Surround, Surround Back : 20Hz to 20kHz, 0.06% THD, 8Ohms ..... 95W Dynamic Power (IFH) 8/6/4/2 Ohms ..........130/165/195/240 Watt Damping Factor 20Hz to 20kHz @8Ohms ........120 or more Total Harmonic Distorsion (THD) F L/R ......... 0.06% or less You won't find that in a Sony receiver advertised anywhere ...maybe from the QS range or higher, nor in other cheaper receivers It's very important IMHO to look at the damping factor as that is actually what controlls the speaker suspension which in term is relative to how well it will sound when pushed. Be honest with your end users and you will never have anything returned unless faulty, and don't be one of the retailers that makes end users spend ridiculous ammounts of $ on cables thinking that will make their system sound better, it won't make a hell of a diference not to return their purchase and you'll only upset them more. I had that happened to me and they expected me to pay 120$ AUD for an optical TOS to TOS fiber optic link when I got a free one from work from a HSG80 or an EVA (san array) that looked 4 times thinner, i have told the sales person that that cable is meant to transfer data at 1Gb/sec with no loss and he insisted on buying the 120$ optical cable, I made him look like a fool when i told him i will buy it and if it don't fix the noise I'll expect a full refund for the Sony amp and the cable regardless if the cable box was opened and/or missing, he imediately refunded the Sony and droped the "buy the this cable". I will never go to that store again even if they fire all their sales persons and employ only sound engineers, I will have this thing with sales ppl, I trust them untill they screw me around from that moment on I'll never deal with them again and getting a refund is easy these days. Be honest

Hi all I have a small dilema where I can't really make up my mind between the RF35 and the RB75, the 35's just lack bottom end for music and at the moment I have RB35 fronts and rears and RC35 on center. I can't get a sub just yet as I'm planing on building one as a coffee table/sub with an Adire Tumult in it, until then I basically want to bring some bottom end to music. I listened to the RB75's and to be honest they sound better on music then the RF35's, less drivers but to me they sound better and in Australia they are about 400$ AUD more then the RF35's excluding the price of the stands. I haven't had a chance to AB both as none of the dealers here in Brisbane have both in their showrooms and at one place the RF35's sound better at the other the RB75 sound better, both off the same amp. Anyone had a chance to AB them? I'm quite open minded to music, i listen to dance, rock, pop etc, I don't like one particular style more then the other but most of what I listen has to have an electric guitar in it My receiver is the yamaha RX-V657B which has true 95WRMS per chan with damping factor of 800.

I can't hear anything from my Yamaha 657 with the volume completely down or on mute

.....man they look sweet with the covers off them, I might take the grills off mine

Congrats on the RB-75's! I'm using the RB-35's with the RC-35 center on a Yamaha RX-V657B and I have no problems with volume. I have never took them under -6 as it is very very lound and basically that's what i call reference levels on this amp, at this volume I get no audible distortion out of the Reference series at all and i think I can go to about -3 or even 0 on the Yamaha but I'm looking after my ears. I think the wires might make a difference and make sure you get some banana plugs and do the job properly. When I purchased mine i went to the biggest wire I could fit in the biggest banana plug it did the job!

I don't know much about this end of the market. Maybe someone else can recommend something. BTW, I'm based in Australia too. Mate if you find one let me know I'd be interested too

Heya mate, I'm from Brisbane and i got Klipsched a few weeks ago and I'm still amazed at how well they sound, I went for the RB-35's in front and RC-35 for center and I'm waiting on another pair of RB-35's for rears (atm using AAD's bookshelfs). I'm not sure if you got your system yet but if you find it too harsh just bear with them for about a week or so until they break in and they will sound a hell of a lot better. I basically let mine on a repeat CD when I went to work at low volume at first then louder the 2nd day and so on until after about 3-4 days came the weekend and gave them a bit of hell, because I got home late from work I had no chance to really listen to them but come the weekend I was amazed at the change the speakers went through, they are very smooth even for a horn spaeaker and I absolutely love them! You'll hear little sounds in movies and music that you never heard before, basically you end up just re-watching most DVD's with a grin on your face. The Yamaha is a very smooth amp compared to the rest of the jap brigade that unless you spend big they sound very very harsh. The Yami also has a high current amp with a very good dampening factor so I'm glad you chosed it. The best thing about being Klipsched? is when you walk in a HT store and you listen to the bling bling setups that cost twice what you paid and sound like *** and you can't stop but put a smirk on your face

you might want to consider mounting it under the display panel if the display panel is high as the RC's are very picky with their placement as I've discovered

When I originally listen to the Klipsch speakers (I've never heard of Klipsch before) i went straight to the R series and was mainly interested in bookshelfs for HT, had a look at the 25's 35's and 75's and settled for the 2x RB-35 and 1xRC-35, the rears are AAD's that I will soon replace with RB-35's. From my listening to them i choose the 35's as they to me were alot better then the 25's and the 75's only provided a very small difference not really worth the extra money. With the center channel the 35 is way superior to the 25 and really worth the extra money, it has better extension and to me it just sounded better until i gave it about a week to break in then basically it and the bookshelfs changed completely and gave this very nice crystal clear sound. To be honest after I purchased them and took them home and had them installed i was a bit dissapointed as they sounded harsh and twitchy and I almost took them back when I thought "lemme break them in then we'll see". Well I went back to the store after about 3 weeks to have a listen to the floor standers and had another listen to a 25 setup and with my newly trained ears on the 35's the 25's are really no match, explosions sound so much convincing on the 35 center and while there is alot of action going through it if in the movie someone starts talking the voice is perfect with no artifacts from explosions or whatever is on screen, on the 25 center there was a bit of coloration (mind you I was testing them at reference levels), I then put it on a local news channel to see how the voice of the news presenter sounds on both and the 35 is clearly better. I'm not saying the 25's aren't good, for the money they are but what I'm saying the little extra premium for the 35 center is well and trully worth it.