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Posts posted by ClaudeJ1

  1. On 5/8/2022 at 9:58 AM, jjptkd said:


    Thank you! Yes I've always wanted to give the infamous 396's a run in my system but they never come up for sale used near me plus after having my previous "pro-Cornscala" build which used the same cabinets as the 396's I figured the bass would probably leave me wanting. These speakers truly are amazing-- different presentation than the 3-way 335's with some things I like more at the expense of some other things really hard to say at this point which I like better both are top notch in my book.

    Some day, you might even graduate to Horn Bass! Another level will be achieved then.

    • Like 1
  2. I looked up the specs on that now obsolete LTA woofer, which was only $80. It's lower inductance and whizzer cone made it work to 8 Khz. and reminds me of the old whizzer cone EV drivers I have in an old pair of EV cabinets I just picked up locally. It was designed to work as an acousic guitar speaker in a SEALED box needing no tweeter to work for the intended application. I'm not surprised you are getting such extended high end response in comparison to the other two. But this woofer is wrong for a Heresy ported box Modification.

  3. 16 hours ago, Gorquin said:

    Thank you ClaudeJ1. I suspected the port may have something to do with it but the interaction of lower Qts and higher BL? You got me ! But, why did it apparently affect the mids and top end?

    The fact that it's an 8 ohm woofer and not an 11 ohm woofer like the K-22, so the relationship with the 2.5 mH inductor is different. The fact that it has an aluminum voice coil instead of copper gives it an different midrange/top end response. The higher BL product means it has a stronger magnet which tips the response to the top end and weakens the bass, but gives it a much better Transient Response to catch up with the horn midrange. Also, the low mass cone and sympathetic suspension of the spider and ribbed edges is different. You can hear it on drums and piano, but not necessarily measure with a Magnitude Response Curve.


    Also the back EMF characteristic is different, so the interaction with the amplifier is different. Keeping the cabinet sealed caps off the bass below 100 Hz. while the port liberates it to work in conjunction with the box resonance amplified by the corner/wall placement. The stuffing absorbs excess midrange bouncing inside the box, while maximizing the bass response you lose by going with a low Qts woofer in a 1.7 cubic foot sealed box by providing an adiabatic conversion and making the box seem "bigger."


    It's like cooking a dish with a symphony of different, interdependent ingredients, optimized to work together to create a reasonably flat output. You cannot change a single ingredient without changing the output in some way and thus changing the Flavor of the dish!


    I did my best to OPTIMIZE that interaction of ingredients to yield an amazing output with less DISTORTION than the original H by using better ingredients in the same mixing bowl.

    • Like 1
  4. 2 hours ago, Gorquin said:

    The cabinet with the subbed K42 woofer did not graph as good as the others below about 125Hz and the mids and top end drop off sooner

    Now you know why I added the port. Even before measuring, I knew the lower Qts and Higher BL product would thin out the bass. Common knowledge among speaker builder hobbyists (we hope).

  5. 1 hour ago, carlthess40 said:

    Could you post the link for those Quarter Pies ? I remember reading some of the post but can’t remember where it’s at.

    I typed "Quarter Pie" and it popped right up. V 2.2 was created to go lower with less waste than the original. Adding 6" to the horn length did the trick. Same Plywood or MDF investment. Crossed at 500 Hz. with those JBL's would be a sweet 2-way active Xover speaker. I have 4 of those I don't need, if interested in Active Xovers with time delay, although in the "stand up" version, the voice coils are aligned so you can get by with passives, except you need shelving for the JBL driver, unless you add a DaveA super tweeter, which I would do.



    • Like 1
  6. 16 minutes ago, Travis In Austin said:

    the thinner stuff, around 1/2" thick was used in K-horn horn bass bin interior panel assemblies and for the side panels of the horn body...stuff that  would have screws securing it instead of other fastener types!  Drilling holes for screws was no issue when with using it!  Staples and finish nails??...forget it!...didn't happen because they folded or bent trying to get thru it!  That huge purchase was BELIEVED to be a great idea when they made it at a great discount, but none of the decision-makers on the deal knew chit about trying to use it for building our speakers!!…. and didn't bother asking us!...AS USUAL!!  The Baltic birch panels we got which were approximately 1/2" thick...had 9 plys.

    This is the exact stuff used in my 1977 Khorns, ordered from my dealer in September and delivered in Mid October that year. I sold them to a family friend years ago. I was really impressed with the 9 layers I could see in all parts from the rear. He still has them and I have an option to buy them back for the same fair used price I charged him. I keep bugging him annually to buy them back, but he says the only I will get them will be in his will! Not likely since he's a bit younger than I am. LOL.

  7. 12 hours ago, jwgorman said:

    I need adult supervision. I do have a pair of hf1440s sitting around waiting for something. 

    Go with active crossover and build Quarter Pies with Kappa 15C woofers! Mate with a 400-600 Hz. Treble Horn. With a little PEQ and Time Delay "salt and pepper", you can get a nice 2-way, then add a sub if you want, or you can just PEQ it down to 30 Hz. The Acoustic Cutoff is about 50 Hz.


    • Like 1
  8. Jim Jimbo still owns my original pair of the 1.0's and has built a few more for friends. During a recent phone conversation, he suggested that I create a summary of all the "too many pages" to save time for the Future Modders out there.


    Pretty much all you need to know is on page 1 of the links I created in the first frames of this summary thread. Pictures and curves to your heart's content.


    I named them "Super Heresy's" because of Dave's sMAHL super tweeters created and amazing sound in the top end, but the main reason I even attempted the change was because of something Roy Delgado taught me in 2007 about BL products of woofers, and something I learned by using a K43 and a Kappa 15C in my LaScalas, yielding better MIDRANGE definition in those bass horns.


    As to the "Baby Cornwall" part of the name, it was mostly because I had to port it to get the bass back that I knew I would be thinning out with the woofer swap alone, but mostly is about the PLACEMENT requirements of the rear port "Corner or Wall" which is how PWK derive the name of the bigger box they made circa 1958. I never implied that the SH mod would be as good as a real Klipsch Cornwall because the bigger box/bigger woofer would trounce the SH in the bass department, which would be know in about 2 seconds of listening. But for it's size, the SH is a total sonic BEAST!


    But for the Super Heresy, I wanted a more responsive Midrange also, but I ended up with fabulous BASS as a total surprise! Then I just decided to "share the joy" here. I can't know for sure, but there seems to have been several dozen pairs created since day one. It's been nice to read that everyone that did this never went back to the old sealed box and all have cited better sound as the reason.


    The 2.0 uses the slightly better and more expensive Neo Magnet woofer that has higher output capability, with essentially the same Sound.


    For those who want to do this incrementally, I suggest you start by replacing the woofer and add the port WITHOUT changing the type E network at all.


    Then you may want to simply change out the capacitors (ordering Six 2 uF capacitors, but only using 4 initially) on the E network, using their original values. This is what @FIDO did, Plus adding the DaveA Tweeters, then stopping with full satisfaction without changing the Autoformer taps, like it says to do. He subsequently sold them to another gentleman who also thinks they are great that way, making room for a Forte IV in his small living room in the process.


    Depending on the size and "Brightness" of your ROOM, your hearing sensitivity, and personal preference.


    So, I'm saying, you may want to hold off on changing the capacitor values, and soldering to different taps on the T2A autoformer, until you feel you need it after much listening. Or you may want to change just ONE, and A/B against the other one first.


    The "full mod" results in a +3 db higher output from 700 hz to 20 Khz. like I did on both of mine. Whether you do this final step or not is up to you and your preference.


    Either way, the Heresy is the most "time aligned" of the PWK Heritage speakers where it counts, and creates what some have describe as Fantastic Imaging. Long live the Klipsch K-42!!


    Best of Luck to all you Klipsch Fanatical Modders out there!

    • Like 1
  9. 19 hours ago, Travis In Austin said:

    "Baltic birch has been used in Heritage products sparingly over the years due to its void-free properties, most notably in 1/2" for K-horn woofer back panels and interior parts,

    For me, it was pure luck and the fact that as a young man, the pair of KCBR's were the only ones I could afford. I also got a bank loan for $1,000 to establish credit. I was always a "cash and carry" guy before I married my credit rating, who had lots of WAF.


    AFAICR, I paid $1,600 plus 4% sales tax for them. Translated to modern inflated dollars, including the REAL 2022 inflation numbers on lumber and drivers (not the CPI.gov calculator bullshit), they would be about $10,000 today as an economical choise.


    All the pieces I could see from the rear were made of 1/2 Baltic Birch. I had never seen 1/2" (or metric equivalent) plywood of any kind with 9 layers before (counted them myself). I was impressed. I also have a Dope from Hope somewhere, about that time, where PWK talked about the "Russian Plywood" in my speakers that stated that those particular Khorns of that model year weighed 20 lbs. MORE than the older one with Fir Plywood in it's innards. I paid cash for a center channle LaScala made of Birch plywood, but I'm not sure if it was the Russian stuff. But I'm very sure the Khorns were mostly made of that. I sanded the tops and fronts down to #0000 steel wool and they were almost shiny BEFORE I hand rubbed 3 coats of Homer Formby's Satin Tung Oil into them. I had asked a pro who did exotic wood installs (Staircase, railings, fireplaces, etc.) what was the very best finish I could put on them. I followed his advice and those were simply beautiful with the Black Grille Cloth when I was done with them. 


    To quote PWK quoting Ralph Waldo Emerson: "The Excellent is new forever."

  10. 14 hours ago, CWelsh said:

    I should have been more clear in my comments, as well. My point was more about the arguments over the importance of tone woods vs. anything not considered a tone wood. And, I included solid bodies because the arguments extend there as well. I build guitars as a hobby, so I see the parallels between the two groups.


    Like Edgar, I've been under the impression that MDF was being used not to save cost, but to dampen vibration, but that may be a misunderstanding. I would be very interested in CBH's thoughts on this.

    I agree with all the collective comments about this. So I guess the "myth" part is calling one superior over the other, depending on application and cost factors (which are always present in decision making). My fist pair of Khorns were made entirely of Baltic Birch from Russia in 1977, and sounded great for 20 years until I "upgraded" to Walnut ones I sold in 2007 to go with the Klipsch MWM stack instead. I went from "pretty Walnut" to ugly black used stuff after hearing a single MWM with a K-402 on top, which was a big Reveal to my ears, almost 15 years ago.

    • Like 1
  11. 8 hours ago, Edgar said:

    From a purely objective standpoint, I agree with most of what you say, too. In this context, it's just not necessary to be purely objective.

    Here's more from Bill Fitzmaurice: "Break-in never ceases, it goes on indefinitely at a very slow rate. I had an EVM-12L that I used in a number of boxes over some 20 years. Fs out of the box was 65Hz. After break in it came down to the spec'd 55Hz. Every time I put it in a new cab Fs was down a bit more. The last time I measured it Fs had come down to 48Hz."


    What he's talking about is the original K-42 woofer by EV! Use in my original Super Heresy 1.0 owned by Jim Jimbo..........still.

  12. 8 minutes ago, geezin' said:

    "......or at least fail to irritate you...."


    That line says volumes about our differing approaches in equipment. Some seek the Holy Grail and other (me for one) simply want to listen to music with a sound we enjoy. I understand the Grail approach as I've done that in other arenas of my life however Spending time and money to seek incremental improvements just isn't where I want to be. Sure I'd like a step up but there's other things I walk that  path. Music for me is a relaxing time occupier that would be ruined if I went down the road of The Grail. I've enough of that elsewhere.


    That being said I wouldn't mind a Band Camp Amp. :D

    I totally agree with your premise here. Band Camp amps represents "bang for buck" performance, which I always seek.

    I put most of my dollars and efforts into efficient speakers, while seeking high efficiency or low watt amps.

    Quote Papa Pass: "I'm kind of a cheap guy, myself." "I go for simple circuits that sound really good." "I can tell from a Scope Trace, but we still go through a rigorous process." "My deceased friend had the best ears on the planet and I trusted his over mine for audible sounds"

    • Like 1
  13. I agree about the ILLUSION that occurs with preference of 2nd or 3rd harmonic dominance. The charm is at "ordinary levels" which for me is the industry standard "83 db" average, established by the HT world.


    All Klipsch owners are listening to MilliWatts, Primarily. All of my speakers except subs are 100 db Plus/watt, those are 97, which prompted a reduction of my subwoofer power amps (Crown K2) to Behringer 800 with LED power indicators, kept right below clipping on my demo HT with bass that shakes the room floor and scares strangers........no joke.


    I helped setup my old Underground Jubilee Clones with SIT-3 amps with the guy who bought them from me. Closest thing to Triode tubes!


    As an aside, I'm all for limiting live rock concert levels at 96 db. 

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