longdrive03

These are 1975 ("N") not 1977 H's. I have a pair of "R" which are 1977 waiting to redo and I got my wires crossed. Sorry. 1975 model with consecutive serial numbers (I'll recheck serial numbers tonight and repost). I sanded down the walnut veneer, cut out all corners to apply 3/4" solid hormigo lumber, applied marbled aircraft grade wood backed etimoe veneer on tops, bottoms, sides and fronts. Installed neo magnets under from veneer, built new 1/2" grill, recapped E2 xover with Solen caps, installed new 14 gauge not fancy wire inside, ran horizontal side to side internal braced repainted the backs and speaker recesses black, built new slanted risers (2" to .75") using same veneer, applied 6 coats of Minwax wipe on poly satin and installed new banana plug terminals over location of old Klipsch screw down terminals. Bumped the top back veneer on one spot and had to splice in veneer to match. Hard to see from 3 feet away but gotta divulge that glitch. See pics. AHHHAHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! (Yeah, I know I should have been more careful!) Will post better pics of risers. I glued on thin foam rubber on tops of risers to keep speaker from sliding. I drilled screw holes in the riser for those that want to permanently attach to speaker. K-24 woofers, K-55v mids and K-77 round magnet tweeters. All work great. $700.00 plus actual shipping charges. I'm in Little Rock if anyone wants to see them. I will take more pics after work and post more photos.

Thanks CANT!!

Correction, 146.

Could someone please please help me with my inquiry at post 147? Thanks.

I think Bob has some info on his site as to the tap settings but can't recall if he provides what changes should be made to the cap on the mid when you move taps. Shouldn't be that much if any since you only decreased output by 1db. Good luck

I pulled out the old trusty Speakerlab catalogs and found another "Speaker Factory" catalog. which appears identical to the Speakerlab catalog. Both companies are (were?) located on Northlake Way in Seattle Washington within three blocks of each other so I am assuming SF was the successor to SL. I therefore surmise that the Khorns could be SF since they bear this marking and numbering on the back and this could also explain why they were made out of particle board. I built a set of SK's while a dumb college student ( my second build) and was amazed at the sound. A carpenter buddy from church offered to cut out the wood panels. Little did I know he didn't have a table saw but only a Skil saw!! 13 degree angles are hard to cut that way. Lots of clear silicone was used!!!! Hope this helps. I've attached a pic from the SF catalog of some xovers being wired and the coils are covered in the same glue/wax as shown in the above pic.

I pulled out the old trusty Speakerlab catalogs and found another "Speaker Factory" catalog. which appears identical to the Speakerlab catalog. Both companies are (were?) located on Northlake Way in Seattle Washington within three blocks of each other so I am assuming SF was the successor to SL. I therefore surmise that the Khorns could be SF since they bear this marking and numbering on the back and this could also explain why they were made out of particle board. I built a set of SK's while a dumb college student ( my second build) and was amazed at the sound. A carpenter buddy from church offered to cut out the wood panels. Little did I know he didn't have a table saw but only a Skil saw!! 13 degree angles are hard to cut that way. Lots of clear silicone was used!!!! Hope this helps. I've attached a pic from the SF catalog of some xovers being wired and the coils are covered in the same glue/wax as shown in the above pic.

I pulled out the old trusty Speakerlab catalogs and found another "Speaker Factory" catalog. which appears identical to the Speakerlab catalog. Both companies are (were?) located on Northlake Way in Seattle Washington within three blocks of each other so I am assuming SF was the successor to SL. I therefore surmise that the Khorns could be SF since they bear this marking and numbering on the back and this could also explain why they were made out of particle board. I built a set of SK's while a dumb college student ( my second build) and was amazed at the sound. A carpenter buddy from church offered to cut out the wood panels. Little did I know he didn't have a table saw but only a Skil saw!! 13 degree angles are hard to cut that way. Lots of clear silicone was used!!!! Hope this helps. I've attached a pic from the SF catalog of some xovers being wired and the coils are covered in the same glue/wax as shown in the above pic.

I pulled out the old trusty Speakerlab catalogs and found another "Speaker Factory" catalog. which appears identical to the Speakerlab catalog. Both companies are (were?) located on Northlake Way in Seattle Washington within three blocks of each other so I am assuming SF was the successor to SL. I therefore surmise that the Khorns could be SF since they bear this marking and numbering on the back and this could also explain why they were made out of particle board. I built a set of SK's while a dumb college student ( my second build) and was amazed at the sound. A carpenter buddy from church offered to cut out the wood panels. Little did I know he didn't have a table saw but only a Skil saw!! 13 degree angles are hard to cut that way. Lots of clear silicone was used!!!! Hope this helps. I've attached a pic from the SF catalog of some xovers being wired and the coils are covered in the same glue/wax as shown in the above pic.

Seems like I've seen Moray schematic post above before on PE board????

Guys, quick question (I think I know the answers but need reassurance) on Xover. I understand the K-22 and K-24 are 8 ohm woofers used in the H1 and H2 models. I understand that the K-27-K 12" woofer was 4 ohms and used in the Klipsch by Tangent T-4000 and 5000 models. I've got some T-4000/5000 xovers which I presume have a 4 ohm woofer circuit. Question: Is the above correct? I've attached a schematic for the T-4000 xovers I have. I want to use these for a 4 ohm woofer (non Klipsch).

Yes, I considered recessing the speakers but frankly was a little lazy on this project (just recovering from colon resection surgery). I've don't it that way before and looks nice but a lot more work to make the mid and tweeter jigs and align properly. I probably need to make one jig with the tweeter and midhorn sections so I can make sure they align before cutting. May do that on the current project using the same layout but with a PE 8 x 12" mid horn and using different 12" woofer.

thanks for compliments guys. Yes the alnico magnets are recessed and epoxied in the front board under the veneer. I use the ones from Madisound and have had good luck with them. I match the grill frame to the from board and predrill marker holes to make sure they alligh properly and drill the holes on the second grill frame at a different location to make sure you can't get the wrong grill. I love the way the grills jump on the front board when you get them close.

PE Part number is 270-314 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-h45e-45-x-45-elliptical-waveguide-1-3-8--18-tpi--270-314

Thanks for the compliments guys. I had a friend model the Crites woofer in this cabinet to get the port length and width. F3 was around 55Hz as I recall using Bass Pro. The tweeters sound great. Tweeter is very clear and accurate and doesn't sound compressed or shrill. Ilike the waveguide horn from Parts Express.

Excellent build!!!

Built these for a friend/customer (4th build for him). He had two K-701 mid horns, two K-53 mid drivers (some T-35/K-77 tweeters) and bought two more Bob Crites CW1228 12" woofers to go along with these. I added a pair of PE 4.5" waveguide horns and two EV 2442 titanium tweeter drivers and a pair of Tangent T4000 xovers. I realize this is not a Heresy since it isn't the same box size and type or all heresy components. Built the cabinet using 3/8" bendable ply (two layers per each side) wrapped around curved frame. Used waterfall bubinga aircraft grade veneer on the fronts and cherry veneer on the sides running horizontally with solid 3/4" bubinga top and front pieces and side vertical trim. Two 3" curved ports from PE in a 3.3 CF enclosure. Grill frames uses magnets to attach. Built in waterfall bubinga veneer 2" risers. Sound is very good. Crites woofers are very nice. My friend really likes these since you can't buy them at Best Buy!

THanks for the responses guys. My EV engineer friend says its the inductors as Moray says above that can resonate. I was in my garage with nothing on and the sound went away when I turned down the volume. Extra weird. I found problem in the xover. The 2 ohm resistor in series with the tweeter was blown. I removed it and tested it and it was blown so inserted jumper and it sounds great. There must be a different version of the xover. this one has 2 and 8 ohm resistors in series with the inductor and capsin the parallel shunts and no 1 ohm resistors.

Perhaps we should rename it "non-lethal glue distribution instrument"?

I have a follow up question you guys can help with hopefully. A buddy of mine just got a pair of CF-3s and the tweeter on one either doesn't work or is in and he. He removed the "bad" tweeter and checked it on the other speaker and the tweeter works right so I figure there is a loose wire at xover and or short and of blow part. I took xover out and brought it home. I swear I thought I heard sound coming from the xover (with no speakers connected) when I put it close to my ear! DISCLAIMER: I'M NOT CRAZY (AT LEAST I DON'T THINK SO, I DON'T DRINK OR DO DRUGS AND THERE WERE NO ALIENS NEAR THE HOUSE AS CLOSE AS I CAN TELL) SUGGESTIONS??? I'm trying to help my friend do a low cost fix (maybe we can re cap the xover per this thread if he wants to spend the bucks. Got a great looking pair for $250 (ala not working tweeter). Thanks guys!

Heck I've got a bunch of em'! Send me you address and I'll mail you a pair free.

What is the Klipsch part number? Should be on the crossover 116???. Maybe I can help.

Coytee, I too have a drop leg table very similar to yours. Mine is mahogany veneered still in good shape and on the list of things to do some day. Mine has two leaves that can be inserted and can get pretty long. If you decide to just get it in working condition one easy method is to use Minwax wipe on poly (satin or gloss). I use this on my speaker projects most of the time. Hard to screw it up. Get your ole Harbor Freight terry cloth pads to apply it. Sand with 220 and remove dust with tack cloth then apply thin coats sanding with 400 grit in between, remove dust repeat. You can use the gloss version for first few coats if you like then switch to satin to tone down the shine. No brush marks, durable finish, quick to do except for letting it dry about 4 hours depending on humidity between coats. Good luck with the project and post pics of the finished project.

Thanks guys, sorry I was offline a while with some surgery. Yes, the woofers do extend the bass. Can't recall the f3 on these but it was lower than a Heresy.

Finished and delivered these yesterday. Customer was very happy. The Crites 1228 woofers work great and keep up with the horn mid and K-77 tweeters. Very good bass for that size box with two 3" ports on the back. Now customer may want me to redo his third set of 1985 Cornwalls he bought this weekend.