Manuel Delaflor

I wonder if their sub can really reach in to the 30s (Hz). I know is rated to 29Hz and I know the 5.1s can reach 30Hz with relative easy. I know also that Mark on 3dss measured it at -5dB at 30Hz... But I want to know if those numbers correspond to the owners experiences on the forum.

"1000watts optimum continuous power handling dual 1.5ohm coils 1.25" one way linear x-max 107.35 in^2 surface area. (so you can compare it to the size of a 15)" Actually, those numbers doesn't mean anything. The important ones to design a good sub are the T/S parameters. My guess is that your sub was "kicking" more at 40Hz-50Hz, but I seriously doubt that driver is better than a Tempest to go low with quality. Most car subs are designed to be in a trunk, not in a box for home use. They are optimized to "kick" at relatively high frequencies because the small space (in the car) will help them to go to the lower octave, on a house, they usually don't go low.

Swerv Don't forget on keep us posted with the Ultra's response graph.

Guys! that's why we love this forum, lots of good answers here. I will follow your advice and wait for a good deal, Im not in a hurry and can wait for something I feel very confortable with. Thanks again.

I want to upscale my Heresy's (note how I didn't say upgrade, as I cant think on something that sounds better ) to Cornwalls or Fortes. Now, I have seen them on Ebay, but I have read also lots of bad histories about buying there. Maybe all I need is certain tips to know if the seller is for real or fake, or maybe I should go to another place to buy them? All inputs appreciated.

What happened to him? Lots of people were on LSD on those days, and most could continue with their lives, like Timothy Leary.

Mobile Indeed, you mention is not the latest version and is true. But the important point here, imo, is that "it adds its sound". You didn't liked the effect, but I find it incredible rewarding, I can't listen to my system without the ADE-24 "added sound". It cuts out the harshness of CD, and it adds some "warm" (maybe harmonics?) just like some SET systems. But most important, it gives more "body" to the intruments, and adds some kind of "focusing" in the spatial location of instruments and voices, the mid range feels more full and detailed. I guess the little ADE can do wonders for some systems but not all of them.

What was wrong with your ultra's? Don't worry me, because Im seriously considering them

TOM!!!!!! Im hope Im not to late with some news for you!!! I have the Perfect Solution for you, for about 200 bucks you can make ANY CD player to sound more Analog! That's right, I don't know why this little device is not in the mind of everyone, but you can make a search on this forum for comments on it. I made a review about a year ago (maybe more). The device in question is called ADE-24 and you can find more reviews on the Audio Asylum and over google newsgroups. It is an incredible black box, you should really try it, you won't risk a peny since they have a nice return policy, but I bet you will keep it as soon as you hear the wonders it does to digital. Oh, more info on the manufacturer's site: www.margulesaudio.com

That's a really nice chart. Where can we have the Ultra's one? as that's the only gear we can buy now Im really interested in a MM sub that can do 30Hz, the 5.1's already can at -5dB, which is acceptable, and I wonder about what the Ultra's can do below.

Swerv Can you do a graph from 25Hz up to 100Hz in 1/6 octave increment? That would really illustrate its response. Oh, and you can do it with a reference point of 90dB at 100Hz, we don't want you to destroy your ears

I bet highlander will come soon to say he have one

In my opinion, the Heresy's are superior to the new Reference line (of course this could lead to dicussions, but that's how I feel), and most of this feeling comes precisely from the mid horn that have you thinking. I have mine coupled with a powerful sub, and I don't need anything else. I listen to new speakers often, and even when I have listened some really expensive gear Im perfectly happy with what I have(and not having the "urgency" to upgrade says a lot in this hobby!)

It can be as good as anything commercially available at a really small price (relatively speaking). The trick is to do it right, you need to do the proper calculations and take care of resonances, that's about it. About the EQ, I agree with ears to some extent. Another way to do it right is to calibrate your system using an RTA, the phase control on the subwoofer and playing A LOT with location to find the best, flattest possible sound. I don't use an EQ and my system is almost flat down to 21Hz, the biggest peak I have is about 3dB at 50Hz, not perfect, but still really good (I have to mention that I have a dedicated room, just for my stereo system, this way my speakers and my sub are placed where they sound best, not where the wife wants them).

Artto, "Hey smart ***......are you willing to put your money where your mouth is?" Don't bother, he is unable, look here, long, but entertaining, and shows clearly what kind of loser you are facing: http://www.3dss-forums.com/cgi-bin/wwwthreads/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=Forum4&Number=89592&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1

Completly agree GooseChaser, he is the most pathetic individual I have found on Internet forums.

Just go away troll, you are not welcomed. Funny thing is that you are not welcomed even in multimedia forums (like the link on this thread shows), full with kids on dorms. that's a serious knockout dude, nobody likes you, face it.

TheEARS, Rotflmao! This has to be one of your best posts ever! I *almost* feel sorry now for lowestlander

Let's just ignore him. He es unable to respond with more than one sentence. For me is clear that he is nothing but a poor little clown.

---------------- On 9/20/2003 2:20:57 PM the_highlander wrote: learn something? ---------------- Yes. Believe it or not, the parameters the industry use to "verify" if a speaker is or not accurate are FAR from perfect. We can only measure a handful of the variables involved. So, every argument you can use to try to "prove" that some set of speakers is clearly "more accurate" than other relies on a somehow weak assumption. That is something you should definitely need to learn. ---------------- so you think Klipsch is the best? may I suggest you check into the Stanford Hearing Institute... ---------------- I do believe that Klipsch make terrific speakers. They can transmit, how can I call it, more of the "soul" of music than most regular cone speakers. I don't know anything about "best" because, as I educated you before, the tools to "verify" if something is "best" are flawed. Good measurements are only part of the story. The other is using your ears to decide, not your wallet nor fancy names nor overpriced snob gear (not to say that all expensive gear is crap, but some is definitely way overpriced). There are other great speakers out there, no doubt about it, but my point here is that Klipsch belong to the "good ones" not the "bad ones" as you naively want to believe. Oh, just one more thing. I value above all DBT's as a "proof" not any kind of measurements. In the end, WE listen, not the tools the industry use to measure "accuracy".

Can't agree more ears!

---------------- On 9/17/2003 6:27:10 PM the_highlander wrote: by the way, I do want speakers to reproduce sound as accurate and natural as possible with no coloration...horns can never accomplish that... ---------------- Let's start from here, please elaborate on what do you mean by "accurate and natural". I believe that if you are here is because you want to learn something, not simply to "softly insult" Klipsch fans.

hehe all you guys need to go from time to time to 3dss.com their forum is full with Kilpsch Promedia haters!

Thanks for the numbers, and watch your ears

Point directly to the tweeter at about 10 to 20cm exactly on axis. Then do the same with the bass driver and the port driver. Then you will have an idea of the real response of your speaker. Well, what you want to know is the response on your room, of course, but that is difficult. In fact, taking measurements of a speaker is a really complex task, even when you use a calibrated mic and an RTA. As a side note, I do not believe in the "correction charts" for the RS SPL meter, I have found four or five with different values, don't take them by the letter. You can also try with specific frequencies, say 1/3, at your listening possition but pointing the meter directly to both your left or right speaker, then do an average.