avguytx

That's about how I've got it set up, too. I want to believe I'm getting the Full Monty from AMHD but they are so fickle about their info. Who's your source of choice? Tidal, Qobuz, AMHD, etc.

Your PC setup may be a little beyond what I'm doing with mine; curious how you have it set up. Mine's an older Dell 790 i5 with the settings set to capability for all output, up to 32bit/192kHz, and is fed via USB to my Onkyo P-3000R preamp. The USB input has specific drivers that have to be used (from Onkyo) that appear to override Windows settings. It does show on my preamp what it's "seeing" from Amazon & Spotify, too. I let my preamp do the DAC work since it already has decent separate L/R Burr Brown D/A's. But hell, the Node may be better than it since the Node is 10 years newer than my preamp. And i just used the Desktop apps for Spotify and Amazon Music HD. Sure wish Amazon would come out with aa "Connect" style control like Spotify. I wonder if the BlueSound app works well; that would be a BIG deciding factor for me to be able to use a phone or tablet to control Amazon versus having to use a keyboard.

The pictures above in thread are of version 1 crossovers. I have a side view pic of the version 3's I had some years back which shows the yellow caps. Could have been a transitional thing. Electrolytics look to be the same.

They are untouched in them and I for sure haven't done anything to them yet. I thought it odd, too, as the caps in my original CF-3's (version 3) were the yellow "polyester" caps that were slightly oval similar to what was in most other models.

The caps and resistors could be changed out for a very minimal amount. There's a choice of either the Metalized polyester, which seem to be the "preferred" for Klipsch Heritage (not sure about Epic) or or Metalized polypropylene caps. Not a crazy difference in price. Resistor wise, the bad side is that they don't make a 1-ohm resistor and the 2-ohm are backordered till December sometime. Go figure. ha Other similar resistors would work in place, though. Edit: But they do have the 5-ohm resistors which is all I really need if in fact that one has seen some heat.

See, that's what I'm still doing right now upstairs. I have an SFF Dell i5 QC that takes care of browsing, YouTube, Amazon Music HD, Spotify, etc. It's handy sometimes having it there on the TV or we have the outside cameras on while we're listening. But, if there's an increase in SQ, I'm game. I guess I need to email my buddy and see what the options are. I really didn't want an all in one NAD piece with their amp, etc., but an external would be nice.

Hmm. So the Bluesound is a sister company of NAD, I read. I wonder if NAD makes a stand alone device. I've known the Director of Sales & Mktg for them for last 20 years. (I was a rep of theirs for almost a decade)

What's the new model?

So far so good. Had better listening experience last night. Minimal fiddling.

@EpicKlipschFan I agree with you on the Erse goods. I've used them in the past and their electrolytics for various projects. Mundorf also makes some reasonable priced electrolytics but they didn't have 25 and 40uf. Years ago when my hearing was great and tinnitus had yet to set in, I could literally hear some differences in Mills against others "in certain areas" and they had been a go to. But, with current hearing, that diminishing point of return saves me money anymore. Haha. Kind of a blessing and a curse, I guess. I wish I could hear over 11kHz better again. Not to mention they have metalized polyester caps which seem to be so popular with some die hard fans here.

Just pull them out and compare. It's not that complicated to do.

...

SBAF? Have a link to that?

@Moosh Bronsun I'm having the same issues with a pair of Klipsch CF-3's (older model) and a pair of ads L1230's that are now located on the short wall upstairs. I've been researching the same things and decided against an older EQ as I don't want to have to deal with older slides, older capacitors, potentially lower S/N ratio, etc., so I ordered this Bellari EQ570 from Amazon earlier today. I've looked at the Schiit Loki's, as well, but by the time it gets to my door shipped and with tax, it's close to $200. For $130 shipped with tax, I decided to try this out and have that window of opportunity to return it if it doesn't work out. The range I'm seeing it on RTA is from about 2 to 4kHz in my room so hopefully this will tame it some. If it works, I can hide the red EQ> ha https://www.amazon.com/Bellari-Audio-EQ570-Equalizer/dp/B07PPQ3XWM/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1NGY1PVB7FRMG&dchild=1&keywords=eq570&qid=1633028447&sprefix=eq57%2Caps%2C390&sr=8-2

Comments really don't help a bit. The person interested in buying something from a listing is either interested in it or not and, if interested, starts the dialect. Comments on something for sale should have no bearing on helping an item sell. If that were the case, how did classified ads in the newspapers work for all these years? Or Craigslist ads? Or Facebook Marketplace?

$275 for a working set of KLF-20's is a stellar deal. I'd personally much rather have those than I would a pair of Heresy's, of which I've owned 5 various pairs of in the last 20 years.

Haven't gotten around to checking the other side yet. Hell, I don't know what direction to go here, really. Part of me says just replace the resistors with Mills and call it good and leave the capacitors alone. It's not like it's that hard to ever go back and change the caps. 10 Mills 12W resistors are $55 at Parts Connexion, changing the 25uf & 40uf electrolytic caps along with new terminals from Parts Express, starts getting close to $200 after tax and shipping. Not sure my point of diminishing returns range cares about that. lol

Also keep the Epic series as a consideration, too. Primarily the CF-3 and CF-4.

I believe you can give feedback in another area. Now, one thing is that the only people who can sell in Barter Town are the paying "Subscribers" which is $25 a year. This prevents every single poster from over crowding that area and not coming back again. Maybe here it could be based on posts. Surely there is a way to prevent people from commenting on a thread....or I would think there would be. This also prevents the "Buddy Bump" system back to the top and keeps stupid comments out along with posters who just comment a word or two to increase their post count. I'm sure there are more logistics to it but would think doable somehow.

Maybe Garage Sale should be set up like it's done at Audiokarma where no one can reply to the ad for the 7 day duration it runs. Once it's ran its course, you can re-run it again but the system doesn't save your listing....that's on the person to do. I enjoy that as I can put stuff on there and no one says a word about it publicly and forces someone to send a message. That was the best thing they did in Barter Town as it doesn't keep all the old crap sitting there forever. If it's sold and completed, it moves to another area....still with no comments.

Looks like a copy/paste ad from another location based on the white background I see on the dark theme. The trick is to paste it as plain text.

I have a pair of RX22's I'd sell that are sitting idle if interested. They aren't the "N" models, though. Still have titanium diaphragms.

Yup. I agree. I guess popping the other side off to check the same resistor might be a thing to do.

Honestly, I didn't sniff it. I guess I should have. Looking at the PCB makes it seem like it's been pretty warm.

While I had a little time yesterday, I pulled the crossover from one cabinet just to check out what caps and resistors are there. There's one resistor that looks a little "charred" compared to the others. Or, maybe that's some sort of glue on the bottom side and/or maybe heat cause that black discoloration. I'm most likely going to replace the resistors with Mills 12w or Mundorf 10w versions but still deciding on the capacitors. I went more out with the CF-3's I had 7 years ago and did have good results with them but not really sure if I'm going to jump into these like before. The caps look to be in good shape and I would imagine measure close to spec. I could always lift one leg of the cap and measure them and for sure on the 25uf and 40uf electrolytic caps. I know for sure I'm going to replace the binding posts as they are kind of tarnished. Nothing crazy, though. My point of diminishing returns anymore is a lot earlier than it used to be. lol