avguytx

The panel basically sits on that tiny lip all the way around so I basically gave it a lot larger glue area along with being able to screw it down, I didn't have to leave it clamped for a day. The original glue area is not that much.

Interesting. I pulled the crossovers in my CF-3 v1's and notice this 1-ohm resistor. Is that black some sort of glue or is it from heat? Or a combination of both? @Chief bonehead

Mark it sold in the title

Well, the Top 10 is going to get shaken up a little this week and I look forward to seeing it. Clemson gets beat and the Razorbacks beating #7 A&M, for the first time in 9 years. It's nice to see the Hogs be talked about again and have, what appears to be thus far, a good program. I'm not a huge spots fan but it's always nice to see the Hogs make a showing and it's nice that it's, hopefully, this year as it's my daughters Senior year at the U of A. Would be a nice way to leave there with an Honors College Summa Cum Laude graduation before going to Med School. (yeah, proud dad moment there)

I still contemplate building a pair of new front baffles from stacked 3/4" MDF and making them a WWT setup. The main thing stopping me is that I don't know if there's equalization built into the crossover for the D'Appolito WTW setup. It might be a waste of time as I sit far enough back from them (14 feet) that they open up quite well.

You'll have to knock them pretty good to get them to separate. Make sure you start in the area where they are the most loose and it helps to use a flat metal paint scraper and smack that into the seams, too. Once you get an area going, it just goes easier. I did my last pair of CFD-3's and also a pair of KLF-30's with the same issue. Here's some inside pics. I made a glue block all the way around the back side which was glued/screwed into place. Then, the back panel dropped in, was clamped in place, and also screwed in. Those biotches aren't ever coming out. Ha. All screw holes were pre-drilled before going in.

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Pull the woofer and make sure the mid driver is tight on the horn; if those work that way. I have no experience with those but I've seen loose mids on many others.

It's still dragging.

I'll be curious to hear your thoughts about a pair of the Aegir amps running those speakers. (are they CW IV?) I have thought about a pair of those, or the Vidar's, but leaned more towards the Vidar as I don't want room heaters. haha The CF-3's would probably enjoy the 400 watts each more when I'm inclined to jam a little.

Maybe they'll reply by mid October about that.

Probably about the best bet as I emailed Klipsch over 2 weeks ago about some emblems and I get an email every 5 days or so saying how busy they are. Really? Sheesh....

After ripping all my CD's as FLAC files to a Synology NAS 4.5 years ago, I've not removed any of the 1200+ CD's from the packing boxes to play since that point. I've bought CD's at Goodwill, thrift stores, etc., on rare occasions that immediately get ripped to the NAS and then are accessed using JRiver. I even bought an Onkyo Reference C-7000R CD player last year that I've maybe played 5 on....and not even in their entirety. It's a 25 pound beast that was $1500 list but I'll be selling it soon as I just don't need it for decoration purposes. I still have around 800 LP's, too, but it's been literally a year since I've spun one and neither turntable got hooked back up when I moved the gear around. Anymore, it's about 90% streaming Amazon Music HD or Spotify and the remainder JRiver.

You might post that in Garage Sale area and not here. Was that the pair on e b a y that just sold a little while ago, though?

Sold

Yeah, most likely room issue, which seems to be the norm. The treble control on the preamp is at 20kHz and I'm not sure of the Q on that. Dropping it a notch does decrease a little of the harshness but it is probably shelved down where it's not dropping a lot. I could probably get by with a Schiit Loki as it has HF controls at 2kHz and 8kHz which is about the only areas that I'm worried about. Matter of fact, there's one in Garage Sale.

I made the switching a little easier. The ads L1230's were already there so I hooked them up to compare and it's what I kind of thought it would be. Those exhibit similar amount of "gain" at those frequencies which obviously tells me it's about where they're located now. For the last year, I've mainly used everything on the long wall where the speakers were maybe 8 or 9 feet apart and I was seated about 10 or 11 feet back from the front of the speakers since the distance wall to wall is a little over 14 feet. Now, they are on the short wall firing into a room that's 30 feet deep and I'm sitting about 14 feet back with the speakers spaced 11 feet apart on center. Just different acoustics.....nothing else. So I guess now the search is on for some equalization to reduce some gain spots. Obviously the bass on the CF-3's is kickin' now that they are in the corners.....about 10" off the side walls and a few inches off the back with a slight tilt in. I definitely like the bass better this way. No sub needed/. Recommendations on EQ? Anything that I can control via computer with a mic? The REW stuff? My setup is pretty simple; Preamp....amplifier....CD player....turntable....streaming PC....speakers. My Onkyo preamp has a processor loop built in that can be utilized, too, so hookup is easy.

Tomorrow, I'm going to move the version 2's in place of the 1's and see what the differences might be in that 2kHz peak range. It's really irritating on most anything you listen to. I've gone from the Onkyo Reference amp to my trusty upgraded Carver M-1.0t with the same results. No toe in, either. My plan is to pick 5 songs I'm very familiar with and listen to the version 1's, then the 2's, then move the ads L1230's in last and have a comparison. Hell, maybe I need an EQ.

I get all of that but if I were to feel the need to change drivers out for others, I would just build a new pair of speakers and go DIY. I'm not wanting to re-invent the wheel with the CF-3's where all that's left are cabinets, I just want to effectively bi-amp in the best, most efficient, way and keep the original drivers. Those EQ circuits are in there for a reason and would have to be compensated for going electronic crossover/eq which may be more work than I care to get into. Mainly, I want to spend more time listening to music versus chasing rainbows and unicorns.

I've read through all 48+ pages of this thread over the last few years but wondering if it's been asked or done. Has anyone bypassed the passive crossovers and gone completely bi-amped using a separate electronic crossover/EQ? I know there has to be equalization built into the passive network for the HF based on djk's comments in this thread. (RIP) I wonder if that information could/would be divulged by @Chief bonehead or maybe it could be reverse engineered. Using an electronic crossover would prevent the amps from wasting their time/power playing ranges that aren't needed by each amp, of course. Maybe if the LP and HP sections could be bypassed, or just rebuilt separately, it would be possible. Or maybe it's not even worth it?

Yep, I've got that same brochure. Good info.