superedge88

That is great to hear! I am happy to have helped. Enjoy some good quality inexpensive bass!

I have the brother of the MA-500 which is the MA-700. I've been doing what you described without issue for a while now.

I own both klf30's and kg 5.2's. I spent a bit of money on the klf's, got the 5.2's for a song. The Kg's offer more ease of placement with the passive radiator in the front. As far as value goes, it is hard to beat the kg series, and with a bit of Eqing you can have some incredible Home theater speakers.

I liked the 3.5's better as far as vocals, but that was probably from better height alignment of the tweeters. The cat jumps up on the subwoofer then jumps up on top of the dresser

Seems like some ok logic, though I would think the option of the auralex subdude would work MUCH better as far as "floating" the subwoofer above the floor.

He is trying to decouple the sub from the floor, not decrease rocking of the sub which is what spikes are for. Decoupling it from the floor is the opposite of what a spike does.

Don't you have this backwards? Spikes help transfer vibrations into the subfloor, while rubber feet would help isolate the sub from the floor. An Auralex Subdude would REALLY help keep the vibrations from the sub from transferring into the floor. My vote would be the subwoofer on an auralex subdude in conjunction with bass shakers.

EVOLUTION OF OUR BEDROOM THEATER Started off withKG 3.2's Upgraded to 3.5's (more appropriate height) Found a set of 5.2's on craigslist this morning for a great deal!

I just got done watching Insidious on BluRay. I had been told by a friend that it was worth nothing more than a rental. I am actually very glad that I rented it instead of being most likely disappointed with the audio reproduction in a movie theater. The audio is honestly one of the main reasons that the movie is intense and frightening, so I honestly wouldn't bother watching the movie unless you have a system that can easily reach reference levels from LFE on up. The movie is not perfect, it does however have some great moments that really made me tense up and cringe. I love the moments in movies where I actually don't know what I would do if I was the main character, and this movie definitely had some of those hopeless/frightening moments. Whenever I watch an action movie or horror flick I intentionally turn the volume up to where typically my wife is just on the edge of saying "TURN IT DOWN" So I cranked up the volume as the movie started to that typical volume level and waited. To my surprise the dialogue and all other audio seemed to be instead at a quite normal volume until intense scarey scenes when the volume was suddenly IN YOUR FACE... hmmmmm so the audio mixers probably did this on purpose to create even more dynamic audio laden scenes making louder sound effects. I was impressed with the conservative use of bass which gave the movie an edge that really appealed to my wife and I. Side note: I noticed that there is a drawing on the blackboard behind the father as he is sitting in the classroom.... Is this a SAW movie reference? ONLY SEE THIS MOVIE WITH THE VOLUME CRANKED. Spoiler Alert: Am I the only one that thinks that the kid was taken over by the Demon? He did say that he was "tired" Maybe the demon was tired from trying to take over the kid's body? We never did see the kid make it back to his own body. My guess is that the kid/demon was eating so much because the demon needed to get his energy back in order to torment people through the kid's body.

I watched skyline last night, very good lfe, interesting ending, entertaining if you suspended your disbelief.

Really? I didn't think it was the same movie

Ulf as in ultra low frequencies.

Word on avs forum is that it is now one if the most ulf movies of all time... Nice!!!

I am using one channel for my tht subwoofer and the other for the aura pro bass shakers. The amplifier is way over kill but I decided to consolidate instead of using two separate amplifiers that one amplifier could easily do. So I am selling the jamo amplifier that I had been running the auras with in the garage section of the forum.

According to parts express you should be fine, though I don't personal use that amplifier. I had posed the same question to them a while back.

Is there an advantage to bridging the amplifier? When you get the other 2 I would just add one per channel in series to show a 12 ohm load. It isn't until you would get to a 16 ohm load per set that you would be able to get the benefit of then using the amplifier in bridged mode at 8 ohms by running the two series pair in parallel together.

wire each pair in series (8 ohm load per pair) and connect one pair per channel on the APA-150.

I use one of these in my amp rack to help push the hot air out of the back that builds up in the top of my rack. It is 1" tall and works great. I did cut off the diverter so that the air goes straight instead of being diverted at an angle. I run mine at about 9 volts instead of 12 volts so that I can't hear the blower fan running. http://www.censuspc.com/Evercool-SB-F3-Fox-3-3.5-Inch-Front-Bay-System-Blower-Case-Fan-SKU-SB-F3-pr-9806.html

Well yeah...I'd happily spend another $100 if someone told me this was the best receiver I could possibly buy, but I was looking for opinions on this receiver, not prices...Thanks. Just wanted to point you in the direction of one that you could get that would have a return policy in case you didn't like it [] I have the previous year models 789 and 989, I don't believe that the models were changed that much. I did some research by simply looking up the owners manual for your current HK and the Denon 890. The Harmon Kardon out weighs the Denon by 8 lbs, not that it is a reason to have one over the other, but you gotta wonder what is causing the weight difference. The power consumption can sometimes show if you are getting an over inflated "wattage per channel" rating, so the HK being a supposed 1 amp less in max power consumption is a little puzzling. I would venture to guess that you wouldn't notice much difference at all from an amplifier power standpoint, but the Denons are definitely not going have a super easy user interface when compared to other brands, though I am very used to it. I love my Denons, they don't run hot, and they have features that are comparable or better than others for the price. The Denon 890 is the same as the 2310, there is no 3210.

You could also just spend another $25 and buy a refurbished unit from an authorized denon dealer. http://www.dakmart.com/p11307/DENON-AVR-890-AVR-2310CI-7.1-RECEIVER-HDMI-1.3A-MULTI-Z/product_info.html

I know it kinda sounds like a dorm room thing to do, but it works out really nice when the wife and I have friends over that want to bring over adult beverages. We don't always have a ton of extra room to put guests drinks in the kitchen refrigerator. The beer fridge really works out well.

So my subwoofer amplifier is connected to the same circuit as the beer fridge in my living room. Whenever the beer fridge would kick off it would cause a popping noise to come from the subwoofer. I could not easily place the subwoofer amplifier on a different circuit, so I wanted to check out getting a dedicated power conditioner for the sub amplifier. I decided to try and find an inexpensive power conditioner locally so that I could attempt to fix the issue with the option to simply return the power conditoner if it didn't fix it. I found this power conditioner made by "Live Wire" at my local Guitar Center. It was only $49.99 which is a pretty good deal for a power conditioner. I consulted the knowledgeable salesperson there (he had been dispensing some pretty honest and intelligent guidance to various customers while I waited to be helped) and he said there was little to no difference between it and the more expensive Furman option that they had available. I purchased it and was on my way. The build quality seemed simple and good. I added some adhesive rubber feet to it to make it more suitable fot sitting atop the subwoofer amplifier and commenced to testing out the power conditioner. No matter what I tried with the refrigerator the subwoofer would not make the popping sound anymore! I am very happy with this easy and pretty inexpensive fix and wanted to point out this option to others that may have issues with electric noise or speaker popping due to various other issues in their home's wiring that would otherwise require an expensive solution. There is little to no information online about this specific power conditioner, so I took a picture of the box it came in. It is called the Live Wire PC900

What about when you change the source, like listening to TV or a DVD?

LOL, verynice!! My wife is the exception as well. She openly admits that she doesn't necessarily hear every nuance of every upgrade or system adjustment, but she does admit to loving the home theater experience, loves bass and bass shakers! Don't you just love how your other half enjoys this awesome hobby?!!! I feel very lucky

I went the route of going with used Marantz MA-700 amplifiers for my front three, only cost me about $600 and each amplifier isn't pushed anywhere near the output they its capable of. Super inexpensive way to get high quality amplification, and each channel is separate from each other, so separate power supplies instead of one power supply attempting to power three channels. As many pointed out to me when I was asking about proper amplification for my KLF-30's, the KLF's have high sensitivity (so do the RF-7's) so super high powered amplification is not necessarily needed. So you could end up saving a lot of money by just going with small mono block amplification for each channel and spend the money you were going to spend on the big pro amplifiers on a different Home Theater upgrade(s) Just another route you could go.