pzannucci

Problem is if you don't know what is wrong, how do you fix it? You would be throwing good money after bad until you understand what you don't like about the speaker. Not a good idea especially when many mods are not reversible. Speakers are very individual and you should sit tight until you have a target. Everyone can say they get this and get that but unfortunately, you may not hear the same thing. For instance, bracing. The Cornwall has large panels that are not, even in the Cornwall III, optimally braced. Some folks would say the bass is tubby or there is a lot of resonance in the base notes. Others would stand by that sound as a hallmark and what they enjoy. Bracing and dampening are the key areas unless you know a lot about crossovers. If you have money to burn that's good. Just offering some advice since I have been doing this a long time (owned a significant number of different Klipsch speakers) and also do a number of my own designs. Every change is going to provide some trade-off that only you can decide is acceptable. Everyone hears different things.

You don't upgrade if you love the sound as you said. You upgrade when after a while you start picking apart the sound and decide there are some warts. That is when you attack only the warts if you are smart. The wholesale upgrades that change a ton of parts that we see only produce a new set of warts. Best to keep your cash in your pocket until you really know there is something particular you want to resolve.

JoeDirt, The Bee Gees wrote a VERY LARGE number of songs between the 60's and 80's, for other performers, not just themselves. If you watch the DVD "The Bee Gees Live by Request", you will find they melted a lot of hearts. Why not reap the benefits? Actually the harmony and musical quality is top notch. From that era the most notables: Philip Bailey - Earth Wind and Fire Frankie Valli - Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons Russell Thompkins - Stylistics Good thing you didn't grow up listening to them. Between these guys and the Bee Gees they must have only sold over 1/2 Billion records. I'd just like to have some of the residuals.

If you are keeping the mid-range lens, will it actually fit in the top space on the cabinet without cutting off the upper couple of port tube? You will need to recover the cabinet volume some place. I almost think flipping the cabinet and dropping the mid-range down (swapped with tweeter and time aligned with mid if wanted) would allow a nice upper cabinet to be built for the horns without loosing volume. The front could then be rounded like the Vox Olympian or similar, keeping everything in-tact. http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/livingvoice6/1.html Crossover will be a dilemma. Trying for time alignment of the drivers will at minimum be facilitated by an electronic crossover. Doing a passive network that will sound really good will be costly (tweak, new parts, tweak, listen) due to requiring a bunch of parts that may never get used in the end result. I have a drawer full of caps, resistors, and coils. If you like to tweak then maybe you will consider it fun..

longdrive03, You know, I saw your chart before and for a single k-31 I am a little baffled. How can the resistance of a single woofer be 3.3665 ohms in a double woofer speaker? That would make two woofers together 1.5 / 1.6 ohms. Hopefully the rest of the values that rely on revc aren't doubled or halved.

Sorry, very few SO's would be willing to have those in the house. I am partial to the Theater Gray with the "Altec" or "Frazier" emblems on the sides. If you want acceptance, you will need to cover the whole thing with a large box and grill, similar to the Altec model 19 or Frazier model 11. No way around it with that front horn on the woofer.

That's what I am amazed by. Not quite the performance bargain as the NAD C375BEE at $1599.00 but still a bunch stuff and quality for the $$$. Closest competitor would be something like the NAD C390DD at $2599.00. Bill Again, nice but cost and the possibility of separates in the same price range. I would prefer the email with a deal (like when the demo unit in silver is $2295 - very nice). MSRP over the internet is fine though if you could sell everything for MSRP, we'd still be able to drive down the road and audition the unit. Those days are almost gone.

To each there own Sorry, it must be the "hurry up and buy before they're gone" presentation when they are not on sale and everyone sells them for the same price. I'd like to get an email with something that is stand out, not just something I can see on their site without being alerted to it. Nice integrated though a lot of competition around that price range, including some quality separates.

What budget? No sale = no buy. Show something interesting in an email flyer (on sale). Nice piece but a discount would be nice considering the competition.

As with a resonator, a normal port works by the amount of air in the port/volume, surface area, and port speed. The area and volume of the round port will convert to the slot with fairly equivalent values. The thing that I believe also comes into play is the resistance of the port itself, or maybe drag. That to me may allow for an actual lower tuning due to the surface resistance than the large open round port. The speed comes in when you want to lower the amount of noise generated by the port. Lower wind speed, lower noise. Just some thoughts. Hope we didn't hijack the thread. It will be great to see what gets done once you start tearing at them.

Looking at the 3/4" or so cleat that would hold the back in combination with the bars that hold the sides of the slots in place, I would think that the input area of the back of the port would be fairly close to the full area of the port. Not much of a discontinuity between sizes so as a resonator or port, should work fairly well on the X-15.

I am shocked to see how closely the slot vent butt up against the rear baffle not what you want for any reflex vent I expect that with a long slot vent you are cut much more slack than if you fired a 4" ID tube vent at a baffle that close it would not work at all well. Maybe this is why Frazier didn't call it reflex. Typically used the term Helmholtz resonator (reflex, what is the difference?)- maybe marketing, maybe not. I had a set of Mark Va's that I had rebuilt into Sevens for years. Great speakers. Frazier must have really loved that 12" since they put it in a ton of speakers. This guy is a little different animal. The 12" they used in the Texan and others had an Alnico slug with a 5 lb magnet structure. Not enclosed in a can.

Same tweeter as Forte II, basically same midrange but slightly different woofer. I had heard the cabinet is not 3/4" though. $150 if all the drivers work is a pretty good deal.

Klipsch will be a much more in your face sound. The Sonus Faber will be a much more laid back speaker. Lower efficiency also though in the right rooms with the right electronics, will likely sound very good. It will really depend on the presentation you like. Since you are looking at two totally different types of speakers and sounds, you should audition in your room to really understand the difference.

Another good reason to use a zobel is that it flattens the impedance so that a passive crossover can be designed more closely to text book to work correctly and provide better crossover slopes. If you look at the typical crossover tied to the driver without the zobel, the rising impedance of the driver, especially woofers, will negate the crossover function giving unexpected results. That causes a crossover builder pain in the crossover design and makes it harder to have a predictable impedance going back to the amp at the crossover point. This is why when you look at a Klipsch crossover, you can't really figure out based on normal formulas where the crossover point is (no impedance management - deemed bad and power robbing by many). Much will be trial and error along with the subsequent voicing. The parallel or series notch filters are used for taming impedance or response peaks. Good information here http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SeriesNotch/ Pretend the driver is a resistor and then read up on capacitive and inductive reactance. Then substitute the driver's impedance (variable resistance at frequency) and you closer.

Get more quality power. The items you talk about are for icing on the cake, but where is the cake (amp/power)? Yes you can damage the speakers with your receiver.

If it only does it when playing loud, the amps are resetting or there is a loose connection that jiggles around when loud. Considering this is a fairly low powered receiver and being pushed hard with a set of speakers that don't have the sweetest of impedance curves, I'd go with the amps shutting down.

Moving the ports to the front may actually help. Wavelengths of bass are very large at the port frequency so I doubt it will really cancel but may give better perception of punch on the front. A major reason for moving the ports to the rear is if they are large, you will get a lot of mid-range bleed-thru. You may not like the sound that way unless the ports are damped. If you are going to bother moving them to the front, you may just want to try a slot loading vs. ports. May be a little easier to tune for best results.

Hit the woofers with a battery to insure there isn't something funky with the wiring or marking. Both should move the same direction, both speakers with plus and minus.

Pull your mids and check them before ordering. I pulled apart my klf-30s and they already had phenolic diaphragms. I guess it may depend on when they were built during the production run.

Looks like he got a ton of calls on them and had to rethink the price. Good luck in your quest.

klf-20's will stomp the Heresys. If there isn't much of a price difference or the klfs are tore up, the Heresys shouldn't even be a second guess. Fourth or fifth maybe

Discussed too long, likely. They are probably gone.

Something is broke. I don't know what but your frequency response shouldn't be that far out, even if you are talking about positioning.

Why, Access to the guts is through the driver holes.