ZombieWoof

you can replace the amp . I'd call Klipsch 1st they do sell replacement parts& they just might replace the amp it never hurts to try Partsexpress sells Bash plate amps , they are not difficult to replace

did you buy new or used ? If used then you might have to replace the Bash plate amp double check that the wiring recepticals are not damaged ( the RCA inlet & the power cord inlet ) if you are Not getting the power light "On" then the plug is faulty OR it is a complete failure of the amp

Not to worry John, the tests are not done. I suspect these tweeters may be going on a road trip in the near future for Spectrogram testing. Dave [Y]Dave have a We can wait ! ! Great things are worth waiting for [G]

I'm looking at that unit that has a class "D" plate amp for use with a THT sub that's that new 'ICE' class " D " cost wise it's about the same as seperate miniDSP & a Dayton 400 watt plate amp bi-amp both channels gets you 475 watts http://www.minidsp.com/products/plate-amplifiers/pwr-ice125

i'm catching these screen shot & your decriptions , keep 'em coming [Y] Yeah My plan is miniDSP's for the THT horn subs & then go active with my 9 channels of 2-ways controlled by the miniDSP after the subs are up & running I can see where the miniDSP's Future is all "Sunshine" so I'll need sunglasses If you get my drift [H]

get some of these thick sheilding ,good quality connectors & a fair reasonable cost . these have a double thick Copper sheilding http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=2680&seq=1&format=2 Ya bought into the interconnect snake oil . pass them along to another " True Beleiver " Not knocking on Ya at all I myself bought into that "oil" many dollars later I went back to MonoPrice & my problems dissappeared

I myself would continue tweaking & finishing the room , by the time the room is done , you will have learned how to man handle that miniDSP [H] you then would be a miniDSP expert & then help us (me) I plan getting some miniDSP units in the future

I thought the idea behind the plywood horns was the added beauty of the wood , why then would you put a grill over the horn ? a MDF horn would be more cost effective as some would want to have that plywood horn on display . I myself like that plywood horn but not that color I would want it stained to match the other wood in my room . I have done 9 of the MDF horns & know that sanding that plywood horn would be a chore . For myself the added beauty for a wood horn is a very desired look but the added expense to buy out right &/or the work I would had to do to sand then finish the plywood horns is not in my budget . The painted horn is better for me as that extra $$$ , time/work is best applied esle where .

I knew when that Ebay seller wouldn't consider changing his horn mounting to remove that tube style adapter a better idea was bound to happen that makes that ebay mount "weird" as the driver & the horn have a lenght of tube between the 2 . I felt that Dave surely would take the idea further & design his own horn it's looks like that is gonna be the case . Dave is Great ! his work is amazing !

I run a CornScala with ALK APT12 -500 ,B&C DE750TH-16 driver ,Eliptrac-400 Crites cast 15" woofer & I'm in heaven Sweet sound 2 Way set-up

wouldn't those grill frames degrade the bass horn response somewhat ? ? ? , as it seems to me you just made the horn mouth smaller

yeah they were used in Theaters & night clubs , there was just thread on these this year , 2 ways there is no tweeter section on that crossover you were not Scammed at all , you just did not know what you were buying He did tell you that they were outta a theater So he did NOT mislead you

then if your running the 82 off the onk you'll be fine

Yeah it would work fine , what AVR do you run ? as you might not have to do the wiring like that if AVR is ony pushing 2 speakers & the amp the other 2

a buddy of mine has them as wides with a set 7's as mains He loves them says the keep up with the 7's very well . pushes them with a Emotiva XPA-5

could be the problem as the restore has a stripping effect

Yaeh , but you risk pulling it all off if You use any thinner , try the teac oil put on thin let dry till sticky then steel wool NO thinner alotta restore's do a stripping effect OR use what restore you have been using but let set on there for a time to soften the build up & then steel wool with damp with restore If you do this DO NOT use paint thinner as you willl be stripping & you don't want that after that use a that wax & feed or walnut oil , lemon oil to keep the wood from drying out tung oil , teac oils work like a shellac and are a sealer , steel wool fills the voids with partly solidified shellac danish oil work like that sorta as well but at a smaller degree of a filling of voids

tung oil only once ! from there I use the wax & feed

the steel wool is important as it cuts & fills the hardening tung/teak oil as you go I tung oil then let it sit till is starts to get sticky & the use a OOOO stell wool dipped in thinner that I run with the grain the wool cuts the surface hardened tung & then that stiffers oil slides into the viods repeat till smooth & each time it takes less tung oil till the last few times it's just a damp wool with thinner the secrect is do this all at once as if the tung oil over hardens if left to cure Tung oil will also give the grain a look of depth when it's then waxed

tung oil & steel wool is one of the 1st things I do as the tung oil fills the voids in the grain & that's where you get the smooth feel , mine are Oak veneer & Oak has huge grain voids I use either REAL tung oil or teak oil either one with OOOO steel wool will fill all voids it's a P I A as it takes awhile but only needs it once . most Tung oil products sold is not pure tung oil so read the labels Woodcraft sells real tung oil & only buy what you need as If not stored right the un-used Tung oil goes bad thru oxidation (it has to be bottled in air tight container with no air in the conatiner as well IE; no bubble in the top of the bottle )

linseed oil , you have to be care how you handle the rags that you apply that stuff when you are done as the rags can catch fire all by themselves , spontaneous combustion it's called Many people have burned down their house by being careless with the left over rags any left over rags must be placed in a metal container dosed in water away from a structures . just dosing in water in not enough as when the water dries they still can catch fire from the oil . I say all this outta safety for everyone who reads this . I myself have had these rags catch fire on me , I was lucky that I caught the fire just as it was starting to burn the side of my house as I had placed the rags in a plastic pail next to the garage , I feel i was dbb lucky as it was a weekend & I did my wiping early in the day And I was still puttering around the work area when I turn a corner with flames licking up my outside wall Had I been doing the oiling in the evening it would have been a personal disaster .

if the Watco is working fine why change ? I use what I use as all these products put off volatile substances in the the home's atmosphere & I myself really would rather be wanting to breathe one's that are non toxic . but that's just me .

what brand did you use as a rejuvenation oil ? & why change now ? I use Howard feed-n-wax wood presererver feeds , waxes & oils all in one beeswax & Orange oil , smells nice as well

here's an Idea buy a K-400 horn , use the K-55 driver outta the Hersey place combo on top of a Heresy Wire the K-400 off the XO to replace instead of the Hersey mid horn instant voicing match !

they Were "Marketed as center for K-horns" that way as a combo & so was the Cornwall , but in reality neither does a good job of it due to the smaller mid horn ,the CW has a larger mid horn than a Heresy but not big enough of one to even come close to the K-horn IMO Now a CornScala would work just fine , there are a few horizontal CornScalas around