JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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Julien,
If your source is to be streamed audio, your Integrated amp choices are wide open. The quality of streamed audio is not normally high enough to challenge even mid-level audio gear.
Still, I will recommend the best quality Yamaha, Marantz, or NAD and any Luxman, Parasound, Acurus and perhaps Rotel. You don't really need more then 50 watts/channel, as long as it is clean and has a relatively high damping factor (say 150 or more). McIntosh sells a 50 watt headphone integrated amp that just might be the BOMB for your setup
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The ME Heresies haven't been sold, yet!?!?
I considered them, but I'm glad I didn't wait this long.
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If you want killer, clean up 2 pair of FH-1s. Fill them with JBL 2226H woofers and stack. Run in parallel with a K-402 top. $$$$, but should sound past sweet. Stacked, the small mouths reinforce each other.
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I'm driving my H IVs with a refurbished Technics SA-300. I have an SA-200 I bought new in 1979 in the garage driving Auratone 5CTVs. And I have a Yamaha CR-820 waiting refurbishment to power my H IVs. All have silver faces! Yes, we like the old stuff here.
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Gain?
in Solid State
I had some Parasound amps with my 4 La Scalas. I had to turn down the input gain to the amps so I could run my pre/pro at higher gain and control hiss. That is the only purpose for the input gain on the power amp. There is NO ideal position. There is no point in looking for one. Any of the possible settings that allows the preamp and amp to reach the loudness you desire, is a good setting.
You will never be able to tolerate the full power of that amp driving RF-7s.
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???
in Solid State
Unless your receiver removes the signal from the internal power amp, it will work and cause no harm. You may not like the sound. I'd use spare amps for Atmos or some other surround channels.
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"Braces" rarely carry actual load. They are intended to prevent the 1st fractional movement. "Braces" have no need for "strength". Most of the braces you see in a building of bridge are designed for 1/10th of the load in the braced member (just because) and enough stiffness for their length. You can get equivalent cabinet stiffness with much less material and weight. Light and stiff together means high resonant frequency. If you wrap an acoustic guitar with your knuckles, you don't get a bass knock in spite of its resonant chamber.
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I built this stand for my RV out of 1x2s. It is intended for sitting. It is rigid and surprisingly light. The joints are glued and air nailed. Two or 3 boxes from 1x2s with a "V" brace inside is all you need for your cabinet.
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On 7/5/2020 at 8:57 PM, Could sound better said:
Since these are a lot newer than the old k34’s in my CW ll’s can I expect an improvement?
Probably not, unless yours are damaged. The cabinet and woofer were designed to work as a system. Changing the woofer will change the response curve. Will it be better? Only a lab test can tell. Will you need to mod the crossover, maybe, test to see. It's not like changing video cards.
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Model H700 *mostly* had SP-12B woofers like this with a Klipsch label. My '67 and '68 H-700s had these woofers.
Model Hs commonly had a steel framed Older SP-12B, painted brown.
Almost certainly, there was a time when the 2 (and another with an open frame AlNiCo magnet) were intermingled.
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My FH-1s came with Peavey BW 1504-4 woofers. All I could find said they all did. It was tough and could be reconed in the field in about 5 minutes. BUT, .... harmonic distortion at 100 Hz and be!ow exceeded the fundamental.
A K-33-* should work beautifully in an FH-1, maybe it is a K-33 c!one?
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I got to hear early AK4 Klipschorns in Indy, in 2002 or '03 along with the corresponding Belle Klipsch and La Scalas. They should sound excellent, if sealed to the corners and if your room does not have an odd sound of its own.
What are you hearing that you don't like? do you have any measuring equipment?
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I'm not following very well. A desk(top) system has to be smaller. Yet, you mentioned towers.
What do you want to do with it? Do you want to watch movies? Stream movies/music? Computer audio?
A 3.1 system would yield the biggest bang for the least space and cost. You even could add rear speakers later.
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It all looks remarkably original to me, including the original Klipsch woofers. Now that I think about it, I've never had speakers that actually used more than 4 screws, even pro gear. It is/was an engineering decision that also saves money. Why would you think that is bad? It is highly likely the screws are machine screws run through T-nuts. Pull one and see. Make sure all are retightened to the same torque. You should expect to see an increase in resistance through wires and a connection (or 2). Until recently, all Klipsch networks were wired point to point. What's wrong with that?
Bob Crites does sell replacement woofers. His are built to the Thiele-Small parameters used over 40 years ago. Your networks are tuned to get the best response out of the newer woofer. I would not change them, you have no information on the result. Would you be willing to do the testing required to determine if new woofers were better and to adjust the crossovers to match?
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This looks like a Shorthorn Model T. Perhaps the Museum would want it? @JRH? I'll kick in to help pay.
https://www.estatesales.net/AR/Little-Rock/72212/2691033
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Pioneer was JUNK in the '70s and I wouldn't keep it if you gave it to me! Eewwww.
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Yes, you can remove the amp and wire directly to the crossover.
But, WOW, doesn't the. 2nd pic look like it was dropped?!?! Is that one side coming loose from the side of the bass horn?
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Letter code serial numbers are not typically used on the Industrial line.
H-D-12 likely means Decorator, an unfinished cabinet to make them cheaper.
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Pure stock Heresy Ones! They should sound a little bright and forward, but crisp and detailed. If not, and all of the drivers are working, you probably need new capacitors. Klipsch and Heresies in particular do not sound polite or reserved. Buy very good film and foil caps. Solen makes some. Solen metallized film caps are cheap and while surprisingly good, your Heresies deserve better (metallized seem to sound gritty, brittle especially when loud).
All three drivers can be renewed with new diaphragms if they have failed, no worries.
"E" is for Export and as you can see, the importer's name is on the tags. They are not different from Heresies sold any where else.
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It IS an Eminence woofer that uses the same frame that a K-33-E uses, made in 1979. That does not mean it has anything else in common with a K-33-E. In fact, it may have been used as a direct radiator as is typical of Peavey.
Look for an ink stamped part number on the cone and call Eminence to see what it really is. Ask them, but I'd guess it could be reconed with a K-33-E kit and become one.
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Adequate:
http://ccs.exl.info/installation/crossovers-installation-tweaking/crossover-calculators/#first
Better:
https://www.parts-express.com/x-over-3-pro-software-cd-rom--500-919
I use X-over Pro and like it's modelling capacity. A good response curve does not come from just changing a calculated crossover point.
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On 2/24/2001 at 8:16 AM, jedro said:
can anyone help i am trying to identify the manufacturing year & type of a pair of klipsch heresey's
type: hbb, serial no. 8428115 & 8428116,can anyone post a follow up on the type, heresey 1 or 2's & the year they were manufactured?
thanks
1984, and what we, here, call Heresy 1.5s. They likely have Heresy II squawkers.
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K-55-V and Type AA mean pre-1982 (possibly mid-year 1982). K-77-M means post 1979. Since they are pro models, you might not get closer than that.
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Bring flowers on the first date.
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Steppenwolf Live
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Vintage Stereo Receivers
in Solid State
Posted
They were solid pieces. If you don't push them hard they sound nice, but if they clip, the sound is harsh and it takes some time to recover. 1979 was my last year of engineering school. I worked in a rock quarry during the summers to make money. While I wish I'd bought one of the bigger receivers, the SA-200 was a good portion of my earnings, that were intended to pay for school expenses. It powered a pair of Marantz Imperial 7s I'd bought a year, or 2 before and I had/have a Thorens TD-125 with Decca London International arm. Another guy in the dorm had a Mac preamp and an MC250 driving Large Advents. My nest door neighbor had Baby Advents. Fun times.